quarter skin replacement 69 fastback

[first69 19]

I have a dynacorn skin . Got the door wheel well fit up, then went to the

Valence and noticed it has no recessed area like the old quarter for the valence bolt bracket. Thinking only thing can do is do some major fabrication on a new part. Anyone run into this on your skins? I understand the full quarters have the correct contour so may have to get that. Fabricating that would be very difficult.

[manley 13]

Do you have a pic? I used full quarters... they turned out really nice. The only problem I had is that the piece the quarter scoops bolt to were welded out of alignment.

[det0326 179]

Do you have a pic? I used full quarters... they turned out really nice. The only problem I had is that the piece the quarter scoops bolt to were welded out of alignment.

 

Hey Mike

 

 

first69 (Bob) is a friend of mine. we have been discussing this issue via phone.

He said he is having trouble uploading pic's so I am going to try to post a couple he sent me through email. I think You and I had a conversation a while back about the structural piece around the 1/4 window you were trying to locate. Did you ever find them other than the whole roof rail kit?

 

 

 

Notice that one pic still has the original on it and the other is the repo skin and totally different. Not even close, I too replaced mine with full 1/4s and did not have this issue. first69 and I were wondering if all the 69 fastback 1/4 skins have this problem.

 

 

Thanks Dave

[manley 13]

Oh man, that is a major difference! I would not be happy at all with that part. I would probably go for full quarters, but I'm sure there is a decent price difference to consider.

 

Yes, Dave, that was me. I found a pair from a car someone was parting out on here. They are a little rusty but solid enough to use, I think. Much better condition than my originals. I think I asked Rick(?) at NPD about the pieces being sold separate from the drip rails and he told me they come from the supplier all as a set and cannot be separated. Maybe one day in the future that will change.

[mustangmike6996 34]

Ive done 3 quarters on my 69 sportroof.

 

I did a Sherman partial (full side but the c pillar and flat top weren't avail, no scoop hole) first, hated it. Did a higher quality piece and it also didn't look right but it had a scoop precut so I tried it again... also hated it.

 

Finally I got a full quarter that seamed up where Ford designed, $550 and I did it all myself and the 1/4 turned out perfect. If it was available when I first started doing it I would have hands down done it from the start.

 

MUCH less fab work. The areas that have welding are the 1/4 pillar at the door jamb, the seam at the roof line, underneath the wheel well, tailpan and trunk pan. Nothing really on the surface. The down side is that you will need the trim studs for the back glass trim. I have seen some that screw in but cant remember where to buy them. I think I started a thread on here about them actually.

[Raven R code 281]

So, I ran into the same problem. On my drivers side I got a dynacorn full quarterpanel. It has the recess for the valence mount and the correct recess behind the rear wheel. The only problem I had was the scoop fitment. The mounting holes for the scoop had to be elongated towards the rear and I had to use a butane torch with carefully monitoring of heat and use a body hammer to fix the scoop edges to the contour. My original damage was repaired with a skin and they chopped off the rear valance mount because of the lack of the recess. I guess it was ok to just let it flap in the wind :)

 

On the passenger side....I searched high and low for a proper patch. The recess behind the rear wheel looked like swiss cheese . So, I took some sheet metal and created a factory recess for my quarter panel and all looks great now. You cannot find a patch with a factory recess unless you go with a full quarter panel from dynacorn.

 

Dave

[manley 13]

The mounting holes for the scoop had to be elongated towards the rear

 

The piece the scoops bolt to is just weakly spot welded on, so I drilled the welds out, and bolted my scoops in with the bracket loose. Once position and tightened down, I tacked the piece to the quarter again. Probably the easiest fix I've had to do on these new parts.

[mustangmike6996 34]

The piece the scoops bolt to is just weakly spot welded on, so I drilled the welds out, and bolted my scoops in with the bracket loose. Once position and tightened down, I tacked the piece to the quarter again. Probably the easiest fix I've had to do on these new parts.

 

 

That's a pretty easy fix, I went thru a couple scoops to get one that fit the best in the replacement quarter for the profile contour on the edge

[JTG 10]

The guy helping me with my car did a good job fabricating the recessed area of the skin. I'll take some pics and upload them soon.

[JTG 10]

Here's a pic of what we did to the skin. We made a template from the original to make the patch. Obviously it's not cleaned up yet but the rear valance bracket fits now.

 

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I have done a lot of quarters and a few skins ,full quarters are the only way to go . Used to have to do skins when the new quarters were no longer available .With a full quarter there is very little body work after ,with a skin there is a lot of body work that need to be done after .Just the time saved with a full quarter is worth it. The thing i did notice about the Dynacorn quarters is the lines are sharper than the original ,so if you replace one you should probably replace the other so they will match. Cant tell you how many times i have found cars with a new quarter that has been over lapped some time in it's life and has a big flap of sheet metal flopping up inside the trunk.