69 Coupe Father/Son Project

[rodbrady 18]

My son and I decided that his first car should be somewhat of a project car. He and I love classic cars, and I wanted him to learn how to work on his cars. So, after searching for sometime for a car that wasn't a "start from scratch" project, we landed on a 69 Coupe than was running and driving, seemed fairly straight and rust free. Here's where we started.

 

VIN 9R01F157893

Year: 1969

Plant: San Jose, CA

Body Series: 2 Door Hardtop

Engine: 302 2v V8

Unit: 157893

 

Body: 65A 2 Door Hardtop, Standard Interior

Color: C Black Jade Metallic

Trim: 2G Dk. Ivy Gold Vinyl and Dk. Ivy Gold Kiwi Vinyl, Standard Interior

Date: 25C 3/25/1969

D.S.O: 72 San Jose

Axle: 3 2.79:1, Conventional

Trans: W C4 Automatic

 

(The previous owner replaced the original 302 2bbl with a 1972 302 with a Holley 4bbl).

 

The PO had some work done to the area just below the rear window to repair some rust and had it painted with primer/sealer. Besides the original Jade Black color, it appears that the car has also been red and teal. The interior has been changed to black.

 

Edited October 27, 2014 by rodbrady
Fix photo url

[rodbrady 18]

My son and I decided that his first car should be somewhat of a project car. He and I love classic cars, and I wanted him to learn how to work on his cars. So, after searching for sometime for a car that wasn't a "start from scratch" project, we landed on a 69 Coupe than was running and driving, seemed fairly straight and rust free. Here's where we started.

 

VIN 9R01F157893

Year: 1969

Plant: San Jose, CA

Body Series: 2 Door Hardtop

Engine: 302 2v V8

Unit: 157893

 

Body: 65A 2 Door Hardtop, Standard Interior

Color: C Black Jade Metallic

Trim: 2G Dk. Ivy Gold Vinyl and Dk. Ivy Gold Kiwi Vinyl, Standard Interior

Date: 25C 3/25/1969

D.S.O: 72 San Jose

Axle: 3 2.79:1, Conventional

Trans: W C4 Automatic

 

(The previous owner replaced the original 302 2bbl with a 1972 302 with a Holley 4bbl).

 

The PO had some work done to the area just below the rear window to repair some rust and had it painted with primer/sealer. Besides the original Jade Black color, it appears that the car has also been red and teal. The interior has been changed to black.

 

Edited October 27, 2014 by rodbrady
Fix photo url

[70fastbak 16]

Sounds like a fun project.

Let us know how the progress goes.

[70fastbak 16]

Sounds like a fun project.

Let us know how the progress goes.

[rodbrady 18]

Although I grew up around my dad's body shop and salvage yard, this is my first attempt at any kind of car restoration. My original plan for this car was to simply make it a good and safe driver for my son, and make it look good. So, initially, that meant upgrade front brakes to power disc, add air conditioning, paint and wheels/tires. We bought the car in May, and I hoped to have it ready for him to drive by the time school started in September.

 

Well, two things altered the simplicity of my plan. First, getting bitten by the "while I'm at" bug, as well as discovering things done by previous owners that needed to be fixed. This added to the complexity of the work to be done. While, we are still not doing a frame off restoration by any means (not enough time or resources), we are venturing deeper into the rabbit hole.

 

Although, we've actually been at this for a few months, I'll slow drip my progress up to now and not dump it all on here at once.

[rodbrady 18]

Although I grew up around my dad's body shop and salvage yard, this is my first attempt at any kind of car restoration. My original plan for this car was to simply make it a good and safe driver for my son, and make it look good. So, initially, that meant upgrade front brakes to power disc, add air conditioning, paint and wheels/tires. We bought the car in May, and I hoped to have it ready for him to drive by the time school started in September.

 

Well, two things altered the simplicity of my plan. First, getting bitten by the "while I'm at" bug, as well as discovering things done by previous owners that needed to be fixed. This added to the complexity of the work to be done. While, we are still not doing a frame off restoration by any means (not enough time or resources), we are venturing deeper into the rabbit hole.

 

Although, we've actually been at this for a few months, I'll slow drip my progress up to now and not dump it all on here at once.

[rodbrady 18]

So first up, when we bought the car, I inspected it pretty well. It's really a solid car. Very little rust that I could see. The underside of the car was virtually rust free, frame rails are solid, no rocker panel rust that I could see. At the time, the only significant rust I could find was in the trunk, especially on the driver's side. So, we'll probably have to replace the trunk floor and drop off on that side.

 

One of the first things we did once we got the car home was to pull the interior out, so we could see what the floor pans looked like. the driver's side came out first, and I was thrilled to see that much of it looked nearly factory fresh. However, when we got tot the passenger side, I could tell that the underlayment had been wet at some point, especially in the rear. Probably had a window leak or something. Anyway, there is some rust on that side.

 

Question 1: I would like your opinions on whether the rear pan can be repaired as is, or if I should have it replaced (2nd pic).

 

Question 2: Also, there are two holes that appear to have been added to the passenger toe board. One has a hose protruding through it (3rd pic). Any ideas on what those were for?

 

Overall floor from driver's side perspective:

 

Passenger side rear (notice several small holes, as well as the larger section toward the right):

 

Passenger toe board. What are those holes for? (each side - one has a green hose protruding through):

Edited October 27, 2014 by rodbrady
fix pic urls

[rodbrady 18]

So first up, when we bought the car, I inspected it pretty well. It's really a solid car. Very little rust that I could see. The underside of the car was virtually rust free, frame rails are solid, no rocker panel rust that I could see. At the time, the only significant rust I could find was in the trunk, especially on the driver's side. So, we'll probably have to replace the trunk floor and drop off on that side.

 

One of the first things we did once we got the car home was to pull the interior out, so we could see what the floor pans looked like. the driver's side came out first, and I was thrilled to see that much of it looked nearly factory fresh. However, when we got tot the passenger side, I could tell that the underlayment had been wet at some point, especially in the rear. Probably had a window leak or something. Anyway, there is some rust on that side.

 

Question 1: I would like your opinions on whether the rear pan can be repaired as is, or if I should have it replaced (2nd pic).

 

Question 2: Also, there are two holes that appear to have been added to the passenger toe board. One has a hose protruding through it (3rd pic). Any ideas on what those were for?

 

Overall floor from driver's side perspective:

 

Passenger side rear (notice several small holes, as well as the larger section toward the right):

 

Passenger toe board. What are those holes for? (each side - one has a green hose protruding through):

Edited October 27, 2014 by rodbrady
fix pic urls

[Tgriffin91 27]

What a cool dad! I begged my dad for a classic car when I was in highschool. I got an 89 toyota corolla. Probably the smart thing to do but I would have killed to have a project like that to spend my money on in highschool.

I don't think your pictures attached, you might have to resize them to fit. Most small holes can easily be patched if you have a little bit of welding skills. Get your son to be buddy buddy with the autos teacher, he'll have welders if you don't.

Not sure what the holes with the green hose are. I don't have any holes there. Where does the green hose lead?

[Tgriffin91 27]

What a cool dad! I begged my dad for a classic car when I was in highschool. I got an 89 toyota corolla. Probably the smart thing to do but I would have killed to have a project like that to spend my money on in highschool.

I don't think your pictures attached, you might have to resize them to fit. Most small holes can easily be patched if you have a little bit of welding skills. Get your son to be buddy buddy with the autos teacher, he'll have welders if you don't.

Not sure what the holes with the green hose are. I don't have any holes there. Where does the green hose lead?

[rodbrady 18]

I fixed the pics. Makes more sense with them included. :)

[rodbrady 18]

I fixed the pics. Makes more sense with them included. :)

[rwcstang 201]

very nice car!! my 69 was my first car and project, had a 6cy than converted to a 302 when my friends 5.0 crashed, this was during high school.

[rwcstang 201]

very nice car!! my 69 was my first car and project, had a 6cy than converted to a 302 when my friends 5.0 crashed, this was during high school.

[shaun071 62]

I used half pans to repair mine. Not a hard job if you can weld. They are relatively cheap and all the ribs etc are there. Some pics of when I did mine

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14899

Nice project!!

[shaun071 62]

I used half pans to repair mine. Not a hard job if you can weld. They are relatively cheap and all the ribs etc are there. Some pics of when I did mine

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14899

Nice project!!

[MikeStang 247]

The holes were probably just pass through holes for wires the PO had at one time, no big deal, leave them for now, you may have use of them.

Invest in some POR 15, weld up all the holes you can weld and clean the entire area very well then coat it with POR 15 and never rust again.

use some sheet metal from Home depot or Lowes to make your repairs unless you need something big and cant make the piece.

I would suggest looking into a Granada Disc brake upgrade Kit from CSRP they have a good little bolt in kit and it works perfectly, I am using it on my car and its awesome...also look at upgrading the rear drums to larger units if you have a 9" rear, not sure on the 8" stuff.

Go ahead and go to the junk yard and snag some relays.... 3-4 of them all 30 amp and wire up some H4 headlights and install a conversion kit for good lighting.

Upgrade the alternator to a 100 amp to support the aftermarket AC and stereo and lighting...100 AMP is safe for the factory harness and with the relays for the headlights you will be golden

[MikeStang 247]

The holes were probably just pass through holes for wires the PO had at one time, no big deal, leave them for now, you may have use of them.

Invest in some POR 15, weld up all the holes you can weld and clean the entire area very well then coat it with POR 15 and never rust again.

use some sheet metal from Home depot or Lowes to make your repairs unless you need something big and cant make the piece.

I would suggest looking into a Granada Disc brake upgrade Kit from CSRP they have a good little bolt in kit and it works perfectly, I am using it on my car and its awesome...also look at upgrading the rear drums to larger units if you have a 9" rear, not sure on the 8" stuff.

Go ahead and go to the junk yard and snag some relays.... 3-4 of them all 30 amp and wire up some H4 headlights and install a conversion kit for good lighting.

Upgrade the alternator to a 100 amp to support the aftermarket AC and stereo and lighting...100 AMP is safe for the factory harness and with the relays for the headlights you will be golden

[Tgriffin91 27]

Ah yeah the pictures do help. The holes in the toe board are not factory so my guess is someone was going to install a soda machine in the glove box and had to route lines from the AC to keep it cool.

A rear floor section is only 35 bucks or so but that looks like you could just cut out the major rust and repair the existing.

[Tgriffin91 27]

Ah yeah the pictures do help. The holes in the toe board are not factory so my guess is someone was going to install a soda machine in the glove box and had to route lines from the AC to keep it cool.

A rear floor section is only 35 bucks or so but that looks like you could just cut out the major rust and repair the existing.

[rodbrady 18]

The holes in the toe board are not factory so my guess is someone was going to install a soda machine in the glove box and had to route lines from the AC to keep it cool.

 

Come to think of it, my son did mention he wanted a mini-fridge in the glove compartment. :001_smile:

[rodbrady 18]

The holes in the toe board are not factory so my guess is someone was going to install a soda machine in the glove box and had to route lines from the AC to keep it cool.

 

Come to think of it, my son did mention he wanted a mini-fridge in the glove compartment. :001_smile: