mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 And yeah, people say the small base circle cams flex, and I'm sure they may, but we beat the crap out of the SBF swapped Focus with a small base circle, went 10.50s regularly, and never had a problem. If you decide to go the link bar route, don't buy those $550 Comp lifters. These are a better lifter for less money. These are what I run in my car. http://www.flowtechinduction.com/morel-sbf-link-bar-hydraulic-roller/ Those do look pretty nice, I will just be using what comes in the kit with the OE style rollers. Maybe one day, down the road when I do a 408w Ill go nuts with parts but Im on somewhat of a budget right now. For all that came in the cam kit I cant really complain about the price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 And yeah, people say the small base circle cams flex, and I'm sure they may, but we beat the crap out of the SBF swapped Focus with a small base circle, went 10.50s regularly, and never had a problem. If you decide to go the link bar route, don't buy those $550 Comp lifters. These are a better lifter for less money. These are what I run in my car. http://www.flowtechinduction.com/morel-sbf-link-bar-hydraulic-roller/ Those do look pretty nice, I will just be using what comes in the kit with the OE style rollers. Maybe one day, down the road when I do a 408w Ill go nuts with parts but Im on somewhat of a budget right now. For all that came in the cam kit I cant really complain about the price. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) i spoke with comp cams around 2008 about my build plans and this is what they come up with, if you look at the lifter application note from the link: Ford Small Block 289-302-351Windsor; Retro-fit roller lifters for blocks originally equipped w/ a flat tappet cam key word being block- the cam link is a retrofit cam for blocks that originally came with out a hydraulic roller cam. so far so good, she made 520 on the dyno a few years ago, has great throttle response... and has no problem hitting the rev-limiter set at 6200. hopefully she will last... Edited October 24, 2014 by stangme428 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) i spoke with comp cams around 2008 about my build plans and this is what they come up with, if you look at the lifter application note from the link: Ford Small Block 289-302-351Windsor; Retro-fit roller lifters for blocks originally equipped w/ a flat tappet cam key word being block- the cam link is a retrofit cam for blocks that originally came with out a hydraulic roller cam. so far so good, she made 520 on the dyno a few years ago, has great throttle response... and has no problem hitting the rev-limiter set at 6200. hopefully she will last... Edited October 24, 2014 by stangme428 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 ok, retrofit cam, got ya. what heads do you have? Edelbrock Performer RPM 60259 with the 2.02" intake (originally for the flat tappet) but I have the roller springs (different spring rate) to swap. I called edelbrock and they said the only difference was the spring. Comp 1.6:1 roller fulcrum/tip rockers with poly lock and adjustable guide plates. Comp 0.080 wall thickness pushrods. I have the Ford Racing Steel cam thrust plate, MSD distributor and steel gear, Ford Racing standard volume/standard pressure oil pump, new pickup, Clevite M77 rod and main bearings. Comps break-in oil, clevite assy lube, 331 scat rotating assy. The block had a flat tappet cam fail and is at the machine shop right now. I will be assembling it next week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 ok, retrofit cam, got ya. what heads do you have? Edelbrock Performer RPM 60259 with the 2.02" intake (originally for the flat tappet) but I have the roller springs (different spring rate) to swap. I called edelbrock and they said the only difference was the spring. Comp 1.6:1 roller fulcrum/tip rockers with poly lock and adjustable guide plates. Comp 0.080 wall thickness pushrods. I have the Ford Racing Steel cam thrust plate, MSD distributor and steel gear, Ford Racing standard volume/standard pressure oil pump, new pickup, Clevite M77 rod and main bearings. Comps break-in oil, clevite assy lube, 331 scat rotating assy. The block had a flat tappet cam fail and is at the machine shop right now. I will be assembling it next week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 i spoke with comp cams around 2008 about my build plans and this is what they come up with, if you look at the lifter application note from the link: Ford Small Block 289-302-351Windsor; Retro-fit roller lifters for blocks originally equipped w/ a flat tappet cam key word being block- the cam link is a retrofit cam for blocks that originally came with out a hydraulic roller cam. so far so good, she made 520 on the dyno a few years ago, has great throttle response... and has no problem hitting the rev-limiter set at 6200. hopefully she will last... yeah i have run a zillion of their retrofit combos nothing wrong with them but i did accidentaly come across something last night regarding this and i think it was that somene used thee factory 5.0 cage on a non roller block so the lifter droppped below the link bar when it was off the lobe . ill try to find it again but i thought the question here was if link bar ifters can be used with a small base circle cam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 i spoke with comp cams around 2008 about my build plans and this is what they come up with, if you look at the lifter application note from the link: Ford Small Block 289-302-351Windsor; Retro-fit roller lifters for blocks originally equipped w/ a flat tappet cam key word being block- the cam link is a retrofit cam for blocks that originally came with out a hydraulic roller cam. so far so good, she made 520 on the dyno a few years ago, has great throttle response... and has no problem hitting the rev-limiter set at 6200. hopefully she will last... yeah i have run a zillion of their retrofit combos nothing wrong with them but i did accidentaly come across something last night regarding this and i think it was that somene used thee factory 5.0 cage on a non roller block so the lifter droppped below the link bar when it was off the lobe . ill try to find it again but i thought the question here was if link bar ifters can be used with a small base circle cam Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) . Ok, here’s the thread I saw. The block is a 69 351 Windsor non roller. The kit is a retrofit kit for a non roller block. The owner noticed that the lifters were below the retaining bar when they were off the lobe. He sent emails to Comp along with this photo complaining about their "junk" kit and Comp said, "Well you must be using a roller block and you bought the wrong kit so you will need to buy our $500.00 link bar lifters and use them.". Long story short, the owner [moron] installed the links incorrectly. They go under the cage. He put them inside the loop on the end of the cage. The person [moron] at comp cams did not even notice this when he looked at the photo. Here's part of the installation instructions that come in the kit. "Step 2. With all the flats on the lifters in line, install one of the lifter guides over each cylinder’s pair of lifters in the valley. …the lifter guides should sit perfectly flat on the milled top surface of the lifter bore pairs. If they do not, stop and figure out why before proceeding. Failure to do so may result in significant engine damage. Step 4. Lower the lifter retainer (spider) in place..." Just another case of, you can’t believe everything you read or hear. . . Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) . Ok, here’s the thread I saw. The block is a 69 351 Windsor non roller. The kit is a retrofit kit for a non roller block. The owner noticed that the lifters were below the retaining bar when they were off the lobe. He sent emails to Comp along with this photo complaining about their "junk" kit and Comp said, "Well you must be using a roller block and you bought the wrong kit so you will need to buy our $500.00 link bar lifters and use them.". Long story short, the owner [moron] installed the links incorrectly. They go under the cage. He put them inside the loop on the end of the cage. The person [moron] at comp cams did not even notice this when he looked at the photo. Here's part of the installation instructions that come in the kit. "Step 2. With all the flats on the lifters in line, install one of the lifter guides over each cylinder’s pair of lifters in the valley. …the lifter guides should sit perfectly flat on the milled top surface of the lifter bore pairs. If they do not, stop and figure out why before proceeding. Failure to do so may result in significant engine damage. Step 4. Lower the lifter retainer (spider) in place..." Just another case of, you can’t believe everything you read or hear. . . Edited October 24, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Nice build lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Nice build lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Nice build lol uhh...yeah, lol. i don't think some people were meant to work on cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Nice build lol uhh...yeah, lol. i don't think some people were meant to work on cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 I can see why/how he made that mistake.... but I know damn well that I would have reread the directions about 5 more times before talking to comp lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 I can see why/how he made that mistake.... but I know damn well that I would have reread the directions about 5 more times before talking to comp lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 I can see why/how he made that mistake.... but I know damn well that I would have reread the directions about 5 more times before talking to comp lol yes, if he did not have the instructions for some reason, the way he did it looks logical. he even got a free set of 500.00 lifters out of the deal, but once someone told him he installed them wrong, he felt bad, but he sent the photo to comp and they did not catch it. can't really blame him all that much i suppose. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 I can see why/how he made that mistake.... but I know damn well that I would have reread the directions about 5 more times before talking to comp lol yes, if he did not have the instructions for some reason, the way he did it looks logical. he even got a free set of 500.00 lifters out of the deal, but once someone told him he installed them wrong, he felt bad, but he sent the photo to comp and they did not catch it. can't really blame him all that much i suppose. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 If you look at how it works, you can see that the dogbones go under the spider because that "bend" in the spider acts as a spring to hold pressure on the dogbone. FWIW, the car I was referencing earlier was done with a '69 block out of my other '69 fastback. It worked just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 If you look at how it works, you can see that the dogbones go under the spider because that "bend" in the spider acts as a spring to hold pressure on the dogbone. FWIW, the car I was referencing earlier was done with a '69 block out of my other '69 fastback. It worked just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
