Raven R code 281 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 My car is currently glue in (door) glass. Is it worth converting to bolt in or is there a better glue out these days? Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I say bolt in is the way to go. I've been trying to find a set, but can find none.. :( i was thinking of going with CJ ponys windows conversion but $900+ is alot though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 well unless yours came unglued i would simply reuse them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 Well it's kind of a six of half dozen of another if you know what I mean. The bolt is is very easy and secure. A nice peace of mind. But you have to change some parts and they are getting hard to come by. Glue in will work, but use a new tube of glue, do a very good job of cleaning everything and take your time to get it right first time through. Nothing worse than having the glue dry with the glass out of place. And yes, adhesives today are WAY better than 40+ years ago. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 P.S. My car had one of each when I tore it apart but I am going back to glue in for the side that was bolt-in. I would buy the parts now, I just can't remember which side it was that was bolt-in. LOL...... B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hoover 12 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 Got 70 bolt in glass, and the rear windows need to be from a 70 as well. Purchased my set from a salvage yard, back in the 90s. The prices today have sure gone up for window glass, and you might find regluing to be the way to go. As LindenBruce mentioned modern adhesives have come a long way in 40 years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I re-glued the windows in my 69. The bolt in set up is probably a better way to go but, as mentioned, a complete OE parts and glass assembly may be tough to locate. I used a modern structural glass adhesive, Vulkem, and am happy with the results. Maybe keep your eyes open and if a 70 assembly pops up then decide. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
larryc94 38 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 West Coast Classic Cougars has an excellent video on repairing glue in glass Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cavboy78 28 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 Bruce, Had I known we could have swapped doors! bolt-in on d/s and glue in on p/s... OP, FWIW, I swapped to bolt in. It did require some finesse (or not) to get things to line up as well as the original. Looking back, glad i swapped. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) West Coast Classic Cougars has an excellent video on repairing glue in glass A helpful video but here's 2 things he doesn't mention. 1. You never need to cut a bracket in half to remove it.Simply use an open ended air hack saw and cut between the window and glass. The glass will not break. 2. He is using the old glue as a guide to align the bracket “side to side” on the glass. This method will work if your old glue is still there and if the bracket is a snug fit in the window when you test fit it. If it rocks side to side you have problems because that bracket is tilted correctly, the top of the window will not be tilted properly so it can line up with the roof rail seal. If this happens, the bracket can be shimmed but only just a very small amount. If your old glue is gone and they have been silicone in you are extremely screwed. I clean the bracket then take a piece of paper around 2” long and 1 ½” wide and start folding it over lengthwise in around 1/4” inch increments. I flatten it out and shove it in the channel so one end sticks out of the channel on each side to act like a shim. If it too tight, I unfold a pleat or two, cut them off and try it again. If it’s too loose, I start over. I put one “shim” around 1” away from each end of the bracket. The shims force the bracket to properly center on the glass to a reasonable degree. I then use 3m 50/50 glue. It dries enough to use after 30 minutes. Do one bracket at a time because the working time is only a few minutes Once the glue is applied I install the bracket. Edited October 23, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I re-glued mine about 10 years. I couldn't afford to convert to bolt in class. Anyway, since the old glue was completely removed I placed a couple pieces of thin rubber between the glass and channel. These were about 1 inch wide strips. These rubber strips 1) centered the glass in the channel, 2) held it snug in the channel, and 3) prevented any metal to glass contact. I then filled the channel with adhesive leaving the rubber strips in. I don't remember what type of adhesive it was. I got it from a body and paint store. It was messy like the urethane for installing front windshields, but not certain if that is what it was. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
danno 128 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I as well glued mine in about 10 years ago. I have 2 spare doors, with all hardware and glass from a 1970 in my storage. I figured it was a lot easier to install a good glue than change to bolt in, even when I have the bolt in glass and hardware already in hand. I might need the rear windows as mentioned. So I vote for the new glue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) The answer used to be change to bolt in but as mentioned, not necessary these days. A long time ago I posted (and have reposted several times) a step by step how to from MM, I believe the product was called Titan but if that doesn't come up in a search than look for Urethane and you should find it. Edit: There are still numerous threads on this to look thru if you want, but I found the original one I was talking about. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1318 Edited October 23, 2014 by Pakrat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 (edited) The answer used to be change to bolt in but as mentioned, not necessary these days. A long time ago I posted (and have reposted several times) a step by step how to from MM, I believe the product was called Titan but if that doesn't come up in a search than look for Urethane and you should find it. Edit: There are still numerous threads on this to look thru if you want, but I found the original one I was talking about. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1318 Edited October 23, 2014 by Pakrat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 bruce, had i known we could have swapped doors! Bolt-in on d/s and glue in on p/s... Op, fwiw, i swapped to bolt in. It did require some finesse (or not) to get things to line up as well as the original. Looking back, glad i swapped. lmao!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 bruce, had i known we could have swapped doors! Bolt-in on d/s and glue in on p/s... Op, fwiw, i swapped to bolt in. It did require some finesse (or not) to get things to line up as well as the original. Looking back, glad i swapped. lmao!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70769 18 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I love this thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70769 18 Report post Posted October 23, 2014 I love this thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kaspar 21 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 What the best chemical to remove the old glue? Imagine it has to lie in some sort of strong acetone or the likes to really get it to to soften and loosen? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kaspar 21 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 What the best chemical to remove the old glue? Imagine it has to lie in some sort of strong acetone or the likes to really get it to to soften and loosen? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) A chemical or solvent would be nice. I used assorted chisel type tools and a hammer. Brian Edited October 24, 2014 by Brian Conway Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) A chemical or solvent would be nice. I used assorted chisel type tools and a hammer. Brian Edited October 24, 2014 by Brian Conway Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Use a propane torch of the type typically used to solder copper pipes. You know the single tank type? Gently heat the old glue and it will peal out with a putty knife. Just don't over heat the potmetal brackets. Which can happen quickly. Heat the brackets just enough to see the old glue soften where it meets the metal. It doesn't take much really. And that stuff will clean out so easily it will leave you wondering what all the fuss is about. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted October 24, 2014 Use a propane torch of the type typically used to solder copper pipes. You know the single tank type? Gently heat the old glue and it will peal out with a putty knife. Just don't over heat the potmetal brackets. Which can happen quickly. Heat the brackets just enough to see the old glue soften where it meets the metal. It doesn't take much really. And that stuff will clean out so easily it will leave you wondering what all the fuss is about. Bruce Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 25, 2014 What the best chemical to remove the old glue?Imagine it has to lie in some sort of strong acetone or the likes to really get it to to soften and loosen? unfortunately there is no chemical that will dissolve it. the 45 year old glue is now petrified [no i don't mean it is afraid]. i use a die grinder with a 3" cut off wheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
