lets talk... two topics inside

[bryonbush 85]

evening all.. so lets talk about my Vert winter project. pulling the original 302 motor with 95k miles on it and putting in a 351w that will be pretty stout.

 

#1-- got a 9" with 2.79 and want to put in a differential. suggests on what you fellas have found out has worked pretty good. not going to be drag racing, but will be getting after it. so whats good that wont break the bank?

 

#2-- frame connectors, shock tower strengthening, and motecarlo bars is whats on the list. what connectors have you used for the verts that worked and dont require cutting the floor.

 

Thanks for the help

[maxum96 32]

What transmission are you running? Non overdrive transmission I would recommend 3.25 or 3.50. If you're running an overdrive transmission, 3.70-4.11. I run 4.11's behind a TKO 5 speed and I only turn about 2100 rpm at 60mph. Also your tire height is going to play into your gear selection.

 

I have no idea of sub frame connectors for a vert.

[j69302 11]

Maier racing has the best subframe connectors. They don't just fill in the gap between the front and rear, they extend beyond, well into the frame rail.

 

They weld in at 4 point on each side over two, and this makes it MUCH MUCH stiffer. If one joint tries to move, it has to push against the next joint which is going to resist.

 

When only the gap is filled, while it does increase strength, it still creates a flex point,a flex point that the Maiers do not have.

 

 

They also make a cross brace as well.

 

I put just the connectors on my coupe, and they fit great. Held them in place, and welded them right in. Made a big noticeable difference.

 

For shock towers, the original (and properly reproduced, there is a thinned incorrect version, and a thicker, correct version) version of the Export Brace has been proven to be A LOT of bang for the buck. There have been test done with data publish on various forums that the export brace was just as good, and in many cases better, than many after market braces.

 

Maier, makes an excellent 1 piece export and shock tower brace. Theirs offers some extra clearance for taller engines/ efi

 

 

Don't be fooled by those expensive, elaborate, shiny, adjustable braces with FLEXIBLE rod ends. A brace is supposed to be STIFF and not flex... Yet they are made with parts that are specifically designed to allow certain amounts of movements... And if you preload the adjustment to try and take the flex out, than you can very well be pushing/pulling shock towers out of spec, and it will still flex more than a solid unit.

Edited October 21, 2014 by j69302

[barnett468 418]

Hello;

 

Also need to know if you will be doing a lot of fwy driving and if so, at what speed.

 

your current gears will allow you to comfortably cruise at 70 - 75 mph but will obviously suck for acceleration.

 

if you have a 3 spd auto or 4 spd and typical 25 1/2" - 26" tall tires, around 3.40 is a nice combo for decent acceleration but still maintaining comfy cruise speeds of around 68 mph.

 

also, the rpm range of the engine affects the gear ratio requirements.

 

here's a calculator to have fun with.

 

http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php

[bryonbush 85]

Maxum: i was going to go with the 4r70w swap but decided to wait on that right now so i have the original C4 that will be rebuilt. When i was planning the build for the new engine, we went off those gears in the back. i would like to stick to those for now because where i live is all long country roads and highway to get anywhere with speed limits of 75 on highway.

 

j69302: i like those connectors but aint cheap! but if they work then i dont mind paying extra for something better. Right now I have the stock export brace on there so im not sure if maybe just adding a shock tower brace would be the way to go or do the maier one piece. they both sure do look good though.

[Brian Conway 264]

Before you get to carried away with a lot of stiffening apparatus don't forget in the stock 69 vert came with a suspension package capable of handeling the Mach 1 CJ 428 w/motor gears and trans. of your choice. So maybe take a look at your spring and shocks ? Brian

[Rsanter 152]

If it was me for what you describe I would go 3.25 gears.

If you are not going to really wrap on the car I'm not sure you need frame connectors., you could always add them later.

You do need the monte carol bar and export brace for sure. Good disc brakes, upgrade springs and bushings

 

Bob

[bryonbush 85]

I've redone all the brakes suspension, bushings and steering. Now just trying to make sure when I put this motor in I don't jack the car up. But I will need some type of locking differential though. I've been looking into the Detroit Locker but seeing what yall have been using. The car runs and drives now so this isn't a huge project, just upgrading where I can.

[j69302 11]

 

j69302: i like those connectors but aint cheap! but if they work then i dont mind paying extra for something better. Right now I have the stock export brace on there so im not sure if maybe just adding a shock tower brace would be the way to go or do the maier one piece. they both sure do look good though.

 

 

Then stick with the stock export brace with a monte carlo bar. They are very effective, on par with the after market stuff.

[1969_Mach1 333]

But I will need some type of locking differential though. I've been looking into the Detroit Locker but seeing what yall have been using.

 

I am running an NOS Ford 31 spline 4 pinion traction lock. I am happy with it. I looked into using Detroit Locker before going with this traction lock. I did some research and even though the new Detroit Lockers are supposed to be less harsh, regardless of the article or forum the general consensus was on small lighter weight cars, Detroit Lockers make it more difficult to turn the vehicle. The rear wheels tend to keep pushing the vehicle straight as you go through a turn. You have to learn to work around that by not accelerating in a turn. Do some research on your own before deciding what to do. You may find different information.

[bryonbush 85]

You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

[Hoover 12]

Have a 69 with a 302 in a coupe. The car came with an export brace, when I first bought it. Added a Monte Carlo bar, seemed to help in making the front more sturdy. You can always add subframe connectors later. Your wallet will thank you for doing add ons in steps.

[Bruno 11]

Maier racing has the best subframe connectors. They don't just fill in the gap between the front and rear, they extend beyond, well into the frame rail.

 

They weld in at 4 point on each side over two, and this makes it MUCH MUCH stiffer. If one joint tries to move, it has to push against the next joint which is going to resist.

 

When only the gap is filled, while it does increase strength, it still creates a flex point,a flex point that the Maiers do not have.

 

 

They also make a cross brace as well.

 

I put just the connectors on my coupe, and they fit great. Held them in place, and welded them right in. Made a big noticeable difference.

 

For shock towers, the original (and properly reproduced, there is a thinned incorrect version, and a thicker, correct version) version of the Export Brace has been proven to be A LOT of bang for the buck. There have been test done with data publish on various forums that the export brace was just as good, and in many cases better, than many after market braces.

 

Maier, makes an excellent 1 piece export and shock tower brace. Theirs offers some extra clearance for taller engines/ efi

 

 

Don't be fooled by those expensive, elaborate, shiny, adjustable braces with FLEXIBLE rod ends. A brace is supposed to be STIFF and not flex... Yet they are made with parts that are specifically designed to allow certain amounts of movements... And if you preload the adjustment to try and take the flex out, than you can very well be pushing/pulling shock towers out of spec, and it will still flex more than a solid unit.

 

If you are considering the Maier products, you need to call their shop first and see of they are producing them. I found out when I purchased their Monte Carlo/export brace that they have an issue with the business supposedly being split up and they have all suspension parts on hold. They do plan to continue making the parts but not until the deal is figured out. BTW, I plan on waiting until they start back up so I can get the brace and subframe connectors for my 69 fastback. I did try the Global West export brace and it was well made but I had a problem with the final finish of the powdercoating. I also like the fact that the Maier brace was one piece. I spoke to the Maier shop on the phone a couple of times and they were pretty helpful.

[Bruno 11]

Maier racing has the best subframe connectors. They don't just fill in the gap between the front and rear, they extend beyond, well into the frame rail.

 

They weld in at 4 point on each side over two, and this makes it MUCH MUCH stiffer. If one joint tries to move, it has to push against the next joint which is going to resist.

 

When only the gap is filled, while it does increase strength, it still creates a flex point,a flex point that the Maiers do not have.

 

 

They also make a cross brace as well.

 

I put just the connectors on my coupe, and they fit great. Held them in place, and welded them right in. Made a big noticeable difference.

 

For shock towers, the original (and properly reproduced, there is a thinned incorrect version, and a thicker, correct version) version of the Export Brace has been proven to be A LOT of bang for the buck. There have been test done with data publish on various forums that the export brace was just as good, and in many cases better, than many after market braces.

 

Maier, makes an excellent 1 piece export and shock tower brace. Theirs offers some extra clearance for taller engines/ efi

 

 

Don't be fooled by those expensive, elaborate, shiny, adjustable braces with FLEXIBLE rod ends. A brace is supposed to be STIFF and not flex... Yet they are made with parts that are specifically designed to allow certain amounts of movements... And if you preload the adjustment to try and take the flex out, than you can very well be pushing/pulling shock towers out of spec, and it will still flex more than a solid unit.

 

If you are considering the Maier products, you need to call their shop first and see of they are producing them. I found out when I purchased their Monte Carlo/export brace that they have an issue with the business supposedly being split up and they have all suspension parts on hold. They do plan to continue making the parts but not until the deal is figured out. BTW, I plan on waiting until they start back up so I can get the brace and subframe connectors for my 69 fastback. I did try the Global West export brace and it was well made but I had a problem with the final finish of the powdercoating. I also like the fact that the Maier brace was one piece. I spoke to the Maier shop on the phone a couple of times and they were pretty helpful.

[1969_Mach1 333]

You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

 

I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.

[1969_Mach1 333]

You put in that traction lock yourself? Haven't looked too hard for a NOS one but the new ones seem to be pretty reasonable for pricing.

 

I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.