Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
rchappelear

too much negative camber

Recommended Posts

I purchased a new stock front suspension kit with 1" lowering springs.

The only thing that is not stock is the TCP manual rack.

 

After installing the upper arm, lower arm, perch, springs, and spindles did we notice a horrible negative camber when the car was set down.

 

I maxed out the lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, which helped some, but still is ridiculous.

Even when we added the engine for weight is didn't make much difference.

 

The only thing i can think of is that they possible sent me parts that are not to spec???

 

Has anyone else had major camber issues when installing new suspension parts?

 

The only reason i say that they maybe bad parts is the front end sit up very high.... That is not what i expected from 1" lowering springs.

 

If it weren't for the $2600 price tag on the TCP suspension kit, i would just go that route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, pics certainly would help. Most folks can't get enough negative camber. The oem style control arm bushings require tightening of the bolts with the weight of the front end resting on the tires. Otherwise the front end sits too high.

When you say you maxed out the lca camber adjustment, is it in towards the engine as far as possible?

What brand of parts and spindle did you buy?

Who did you buy the parts from?

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hello

 

first of all, there is no point in trying to adjust camber until your ride height is set.

 

set your ride height by cutting your springs AFTER, every single piece of the car is on the car and rad has water and the gas tank is 1/2 full.

 

the springs will typically settle around 1/2" after a month of driving.

 

move the car a few feet while pushing down on it after cutting so the front end settles.

 

i think that cutting 1 full coil = around 2" - 2 1/2" lower.

 

cut a little at a time.

Edited by barnett468

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
here is the camber before the engine was installed, it did come down some after this but still need more

 

first of all, there is no point in trying to adjust camber until your ride height is set.

 

set your ride height by cutting your springs AFTER, every single piece of the car is on the car and rad has water and the gas tank is 1/2 full.

...............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pics. As stated earlier, don't worry about that until the engine/trans is installed. That's how mine looked without the weight of the engine/trans. The radius of the short upper arm pulls the top of the tire in as the suspension drops. The Shelby drop helps correct that.

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
...............

 

 

I was betting that the car didnt have an engine or trans installed.

 

 

Ride height and suspension angles can only be measure one EVERYTHING is installed.

 

Do the math: (estimates)

 

engine 400 lbs, trans 100, windshield 50, interior 200 and on and on and on.

 

Not sure how much is in/on the car but that is where you need to start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah and when you drive it the first few miles and make some stops and starts things will change a bit more LOL...Especially if you have went to a mid eye or reverse eye spring in the back it will probably take some time to settle..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...