40 amp to 100 amps alternator for less than 50 bucks

[juit 34]

took my old 40 amp alternator off

 

 

bought a bronco P# 7705-9 for 49.51 eBay item number:221349954377

 

 

its almost same size, but fits without any problem

 

 

I dont have a pic of all hooked up but its working great :w00t:

 

my am meter still works BTW

 

update: I bought a smaller belt 1/2 inch, no initial squeaks when I turn the engine on, I persanally recommend this mod if you are planing to replace your old alt and want to keep your stock apearence, double your amps and save a lot of bucks

Edited December 15, 2014 by juit

[bryonbush 85]

is it making everything brighter? Heck im down in Mission this till thursday, maybe ill drive over and check it out

[miketyler 15]

That looks like a great deal. The 3G alternative might be had about as cheap in a junkyard scenario but it wouldnt be new or plug and play as that seems to be. Also, that unit looks more original to the car.

[juit 34]

is it making everything brighter? Heck im down in Mission this till thursday, maybe ill drive over and check it out

 

not brighter because I have relays on them but now is steady on idle 700 RPM , before the AC fan slow down a bit & 4 head lights dim a lil, night cruises in town were meh :hammer: , now it idles without any problem, did this because I want to add an electric fan

 

the only thing is the tension arm has to be all the way tight still feals it needs a lil bit more, Im gonna enlongate the rail or get a smaller belt

 

all of this took like in 30 min so its a str8 fwd upgrade :alucard:

 

Im in the proses of changing all to leds to minimize the drain

 

That looks like a great deal. The 3G alternative might be had about as cheap in a junkyard scenario but it wouldnt be new or plug and play as that seems to be. Also, that unit looks more original to the car.

 

I did junk yard hunting but I didnt like the thing that my am meter was not going to work and like you said it looks kinda stock but beefy

Edited October 15, 2014 by juit

[j69302 11]

Did it say what year bronco that is from?

[juit 34]

heres the link but all of them sold out I guees members liked the mod :)

the seller has more of them just ask him for a 7705-9 they also have a 90 amp version but if you are going with this go with the hi amp one

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7705-9-Ford-New-Reman-Hite-Premium-Alternator-No-core-charge-/221349954377

 

ENGINE ALL FORD E SERIES VAN 1975 - 1991

7.3L DIESEL 7.5L FORD PICK UP SERIES 1990 - 1992

ENGINE ALL FORD FAIRMONT 1978 - 1981

ENGINE ALL FORD LIMITED 1975 - 1981

ENGINE ALL FORD LIMITED II 1977 - 1979

ENGINE ALL FORD E SERIES VAN 1975 - 1991

2.8L 5.0L FORD MUSTANG 1975 -1977

ENGINE ALL FORD RANCHERO 1975 - 1981

3.0L 3.8L FORD TAURUS 1986 - 1990

ENGINE ALL FORD THUNDERBIRD 1977- 1979

ENGINE ALL FORD TORINO 1975 - 1976

 

ENGINE ALL LINCOLN CONTINENTAL 1975 - 1991

6.0L 7.5L LINCOLN MARK V 1977 - 1978

ENGINE ALL LINCOLN MARK VII 1984 - 1991

5.0L LINCOLN TOWN CAR 1982 - 1989

 

ENGINE ALL MERCURY COUGAR 1975 - 1980

ENGINE ALL MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS 1983 - 1991

ENGINE ALL MERCURY SABLE 1986 - 1990

ENGINE ALL MERCURY ZEPHYR 1978 - 1981

Edited October 15, 2014 by juit

[Max Power 74]

Decent upgrade but you might be getting into the territory where your stock harness might be a little overwhelmed.

 

The original harnesses were not designed for this level of current. I wonder what the max actually is......

[juit 34]

Since I send an amp wire insidethe cabin for heavy stuff i dont think its gonna matter, also the conections are welded since crimping makes hots spots

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the pulley looks smaller on the newer one (maybe just my eyes). if it's the same diameter, then ignore my comments.

 

if it's smaller does that result in part of the reason for the higher AMP rating? And if it is smaller how does that react with higher RPMs and durability?

[juit 34]

the alternator is bigger, they were built for that kind of load, I just took it to the shop to balance my timing and carb and he reccomend me to buy a smaller belt, we made longuer the rail on the tension arm but it needs a tiny llil bit more, it does not bother me but it just make a sound when I turn it on with all the lights on "heavy load start up"

 

what I like more about this alternator is that I only loose 50-40 rpm with the heavy load, with the other one it was 100 ish

Edited October 15, 2014 by juit

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

the alternator is bigger

 

so the pulley diameter is the same between the two?

[juit 34]

Ill go and check it for ya and repost here

[Midlife 814]

Decent upgrade but you might be getting into the territory where your stock harness might be a little overwhelmed.

 

The original harnesses were not designed for this level of current. I wonder what the max actually is......

 

If the rest of the car is stock, then the alternator will work just fine with the existing wiring. Ford built in a safety factor of about 2 for wiring and currents. The alternator supplies a level of current that is demanded by the various components. If everything is pretty much stock, the alternator will put out a fraction of its available output to the car for running and charging the battery.

 

Overloading the existing wiring happens when you add a load (not a source) of current such as electric fans, a thumper stereo, halogen headlights, etc.

[J's69Mach1 17]

So I can use my stock voltage regulator with this alternator?

[juit 34]

So I can use my stock voltage regulator with this alternator?

 

yes

[J's69Mach1 17]

Cool ,gonna try this, may be this weekend .thanks

[j69302 11]

Decent upgrade but you might be getting into the territory where your stock harness might be a little overwhelmed.

 

The original harnesses were not designed for this level of current. I wonder what the max actually is......

 

 

This is incorrect. Increasing the capability of the alternator is the same as buying a larger battery. Voltage is the same, current capability is more.

 

Remember, each circuit, was made to handle a certain amount of current, or load. It is the electrical devices on the circuit that dictates how much current it will draw.

 

Simply having the ability to provide more current will not actually force more current to flow.

 

The only way you can force more current to flow through a fixed load circuit, is to increase the voltage. Voltage is what PUSHES the current through the wires. More push, means more current. And regulating the voltage is the job of the voltage regulator. As long as voltage is in the correct range, you can put a 1,000,000 amp generator on and you will not see any difference.

 

Now, of course, any additional items, such as amplifiers, hi powered lights, electric fans, pumps, would need to be wired into NEW circuits, separate of the stock wring system. Failure to install the additional items on their own circuits is what will smoke a stock harness.

 

 

As for the question of the ammeter not working with higher powered alternators, no body, to this day, has given an electrical explanation of why it doesnt work.

 

The only reason I could tell why a stock ammeter wont work, is because of the 1 wire alternators that do not have a provision for an ammeter hook up, as 1 wire alternators have an internal regulator, and the factory harness hooked the ammeter to the stock external regulator. Of course, you don't run into this problem when using an externally regulated alternator.

 

Also, the ammeter feed is SUPPOSED to be shunted, so that it will only allow a certain amount of current through it, and should not have a problem burning up as long as voltage (see above) does not over power it.

 

Additionally, the ammeter only shows you which direction current is flowing, either into, or out of the battery, and deflects more as the rates increase. It DOES NOT measure the out put of the alternator.

 

Now, having said all of that about the ammeter, there is still one thing to watch out for:

 

There is a potential problem with over powering the ammeter when relays that are fed directly from the battery (instead of alternator output) are used for additional circuits. Since (as explained above) the Ammeter measures what is going into and out of the battery, any draw directly from the battery from the relays will cause an increase in current flow across the ammeter, as the alternator will start supplementing the battery draw, and show a CHARGING condition on the ammeter.

 

I can see this happen, as I have hi powered halogen lights fed from relays straight from the battery. With no lights on, my voltage is steady and my ammeter is neutral. With the headlights on, voltage still stays steady, and the ammeter will indicate a charge, when I hit the high beams, the ammeter indicates even MORE of a charge (as more power is being drawn directly from the battery).

 

For this reason, I recommend that any addition circuits, be tapped directly from the alternator output, but before the alternator out put feeds the factory harness. This way, the ammeter will function exactly as the factory installation, and all the other circuits will be happy as well.

Edited October 16, 2014 by j69302

[juit 34]

The alternator output wire goes directly to The regulator, then it sends 1 wire to the starter relay were the batt joins in and wire to the am meter on the console

 

 

The question is isnt the console has their own regulator?

 

You are telling to use hi demand amperage from a thin wire?

 

The hi amperage device for what I read need to be taken from the batt "relay boxes amplifiers etc" maybe from the starter relay junction

 

Because in the marquis that use same external regulators and uses the same harness wire thickness the relay box is getting their current directly to the batt junction

Edited October 16, 2014 by juit

[j69302 11]

The ammeter in the dash does not have its own regulator. It's sensing comes off of the voltage regulator for the alternator. Also, the ammeter is ALWAYS HOT, even with the key off.

 

Usually with a high output alternator you have a heavy duty charging wire.

 

You should be able to source your relays from where it goes into the starter solenoid to feed the rest of the system. This should be from the heavier gauge charging wire for the higher output alternator.

 

But doing it that way would be switched power. I don't think it would provide an unswitched 12v source.

[Max Power 74]

Ford built in a safety factor of about 2 for wiring and currents.

 

Given that the factory supplied alternators in the 45-55amp range, would you say that a 100A alternator is about as high as you should go?

 

......And regulating the voltage is the job of the voltage regulator.

 

.....Now, of course, any additional items, such as amplifiers, hi powered lights, electric fans, pumps, would need to be wired into NEW circuits, separate of the stock wring system. Failure to install the additional items on their own circuits is what will smoke a stock harness.....

 

 

Understood, but do you run the risk of overpowering the regulator with higher amp alternators?

 

Also, additional items are pretty much the entire reason people upgrade their alternators, it's kinda the point, and many DO use existing wiring harness connections, which is why I brought it up.

[j69302 11]

Given that the factory supplied alternators in the 45-55amp range, would you say that a 100A alternator is about as high as you should go?

 

 

 

Understood, but do you run the risk of overpowering the regulator with higher amp alternators?

 

He should probably use a voltage regulator that was used in the same vehicle that the alternator came from.

 

Also, additional items are pretty much the entire reason people upgrade their alternators, it's kinda the point, and many DO use existing wiring harness connections, which is why I brought it up.

Nothing wrong with adding additional items, but most commonly when this is done, a 1-wire, internally regulator alternator is used. With this type of alternator and regulator, the stock ammeter is no longer hooked up to anything, therefor most people don't encounter these potential problems.

 

By using a higher output 3 wire(externally regulated), with everything on relays coming from the battery, the additional power from the relays/battery will create a need for a charging condition, flow through the stock ammeter which wasn't accounted for when designed. Re locating the relays to the alternator output, shouldn't make any more current go though the stock ammeter.

 

Its also why newer cars just use volt meters. Safer, and it give you a better idea of what the alternator is outputting anyways.

 

As I mentioned earlier when talking about watching my ammeter while I run my headlights from relays off of the battery, the ammeter indicates a charge, and a higher charge with high beams on, it goes almost half way over. Not sure how much more accessories running off of the battery it would take to peg the ammeter all the way over.

 

It should be shunted, therefore shouldn't harm it.. But I wouldn't want to find out.

 

 

Basically by using relays, power comes out of the battery, and the alternator than charges the battery, which shows the indication on the ammeter in the dash. The more power drawn off the battery, the more the ammeter will deflect.

 

Your also going to constantly have all the current going into and out of the battery the entire time while driving...making the battery hot.

 

New cars only have relays for a few things. Everything else just has a circuit designed with the heavier loads in mind.

 

Using relays to add circuits takes the load off the stock wiring and puts it on the battery.

Edited October 16, 2014 by j69302

[Midlife 814]

Given that the factory supplied alternators in the 45-55amp range, would you say that a 100A alternator is about as high as you should go?

 

 

 

Understood, but do you run the risk of overpowering the regulator with higher amp alternators?

 

Also, additional items are pretty much the entire reason people upgrade their alternators, it's kinda the point, and many DO use existing wiring harness connections, which is why I brought it up.

 

100A alternator will be fine so long as you do not add a lot of additional loads to the existing wiring. If you do run a true 90 amp load through the existing Ford wiring, it is going to heat up more than normal and increase resistance, dropping voltage along the way as it powers things up. You run the risk of possibly burned insulation and/or lower voltage for your dash lights.

 

I don't believe you can overpower a regulator, as it is basically a voltage-sensing device/switch. Not much current flows through the VR.

[Maui Shtang 10]

please let me know how you wired it

I bought the same unit but I have no idea how to wire it. Will I need to keep the regulator. My new Hite alternator has only one wire connector and the old one had two.

 

Help

[juit 34]

just conect it like it says on the back of your alt, they have img wich is wich, Ill take a pic for ya if you dont figure it out,

 

I did add a ground cable but my past alt had only 2 wires only a red and a orange

 

the red one I used a loop conection and secure it with a nut "from my older alt"

 

the other one I put it on the same label as the old one

Edited November 7, 2014 by juit