from 2 to 4 barrel some stuff that I notice & some Qs

[juit 34]

 

 

swaped my oem intake & carb to a 600CFM holley sec vacs with a 2121 edelbrock intake I have a 1 inch phenolic spacer on the way

 

ok the first thing I notice was that the iron oem intake the ports were 2 mm smaller al around vs the stock heads

 

my car was running lean all the time if I try to put it to ideal air fuel mixture it will smell gas from a block away

 

the edel intake was a gasket match and the heads were a exact size all around the borders

 

with the new swap the car is runing ideal-lean

 

question time:

 

the oem restriction is this normal or did I got a bad intake?

 

if only made the intake swap would that solved my lean problem or is the whole set up?

 

follow up:

have a air fuel meter for each head

 

idle was always lean after the engine heat up

 

on highway was the same stuff

 

I calibrated the 2100 with vac gauges

 

and also with timing gun

 

second follow up:

 

finally got it to run were I wanted but I found a new problem, the car starts great if I use it for a while it will run great with optimal air fuel mark, but if I turn it off and start it after a few minutes the car will run super rich an smell like gas for a while also it will start to turn off and my revs will go lower than 400 after 3 minutes of driving like this it will set normal again

 

 

third follow up:

 

found a big leak the carb vs intake, gonna go for a edelbrock plate to seal this

I ended up buying metal filler and filled up the holes

 

installing the spacer upside down

 

the metal filler is to prevent gas filling the holes of the spacer

 

the other side will do a full press on the gasket vs the intake

 

base of the carb: the leak would go under the hollow space of the spacer or circuits of the carburetor now is completly sealed

 

 

carb fully seated

 

 

gasket on installed spacer upside down

 

 

spacer with metal fill

 

 

 

Big change had to close the idle screws almost a turn, ill do a ride tomorrow to see how it works

Edited October 8, 2014 by juit

[jmlay 80]

How do you know it is running lean? Is it running lean at idle, cruse or wot? Have you verified no vacuum leaks exist?:

 

http://www.junkyardgenius.com/holley/tune01.html

[juit 34]

have a air fuel meter for each head

 

idle was always lean after the engine heat up

 

on highway was the same stuff

 

I calibrated the 2100 with vac gauges

 

and also with timing gun

[Rsanter 152]

Your intake was fine

I do not know of that little of difference in port mis match causing a problem with lean condition.

Most likely problem was with the carb.

The upgrade you did is a good one

 

Did you read your plugs?

Did you check the car with a smog machine or a 4 gas analyzer?

 

Bob

[jmlay 80]

Here are a couple of good articles for tuning a carborated engine with a wide-band.:

 

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/Stan1.php

 

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1210_on_the_road_holley_carb_tuning/

[juit 34]

The sparks were always brown, now are grayish

 

I clean them every month

[barnett468 418]

just swaping the intake won't affect the afr much. if it runs fine i would leave it. i would hope for slightly tan plugs not gray ones though. i wouldn't live by the afr on a carb car either because you can not get a perfect afr with one.

[juit 34]

Yes dust gray

[Rsanter 152]

Remember that if the fuel,you use has any ethanol,in it the whole plug reading thing get skewed

 

Bob

[juit 34]

Since i live border to mexico the fuel over there has no ethanol yet

[barnett468 418]

well you can try going up 2 sizees on the main jets . flor it from a dead stop before and after to see if there is a change.

[juit 34]

For what carb? What spark plug gap are you using?

Edited October 1, 2014 by juit

[juit 34]

600CFM holley sec vacs

2121 edelbrock intake

1 inch phenolic spacer

 

finally got it to run were I wanted but I found a new problem, the car starts great if I use it for a while it will run great with optimal air fuel mark, but if I turn it off and start it after a few minutes the car will run super rich an smell like gas for a while also it will start to turn off and my revs will go lower than 400 after 3 minutes of driving like this it will set normal again

 

[barnett468 418]

set your gas level so it is just below the inspection holes with the engine running.

 

what us your idle timing?

 

it should be around 8 - 12 degrees with the dist vacuum plugged and connected.

[juit 34]

Non adjustable carb :(

I plugged the vac to manifolds vacuum

[Max Power 74]

Non adjustable carb :(

I plugged the vac to manifolds vacuum

 

Float level has been adjustable on pretty much every carb ever manufactured. It's one of the most basic adjustments you could ever make, and Holleys are some of the most adjustable carbs ever made.

 

That being said, that's probably not your problem. Running rich on a warm restart condition is often a symptom of flooding while the car is off. This can be caused by a few things, probably the most common is the fuel pump is not relieving the pressure after shut off, and the residual 5-6psi is forcing it's way past your needle and seat. It can also be cause by fuel percolation, weak float, etc.

 

See if you have fuel pooling on your intake after sitting a while, or of you can see fuel dripping.

[barnett468 418]

Non adjustable carb :(

I plugged the vac to manifolds vacuum

they are adjustable but you have to remove the bowls to do it on yours. just measure where they are and lower them 3/16 - 1/4 inch and try that.

[juit 34]

having lead fouling on all my spark plugs, so adjusted the floats and changed my advance to the carb, lowered the floats 1 mm on each side, taking a mark in the middle of the bowl since my carb is the non adjustable version

adjusted the timing to a mark that I had on my engine before going to full vacuum port so no misfires or rattles

 

i reset all the carb hoping to fix this & calibrating the carb on the road like one of the videos that i watched on youtube doing this my car runs rich all the time, the start issue is fix ,

Edited October 6, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

having lead fouling on all my spark plugs, so adjusted the floats and changed my advance to the carb, lowered the floats 1 mm on each side, taking a mark in the middle of the bowl since my carb is the non adjustable version

adjusted the timing to a mark that I had on my engine before going to full vacuum port so no misfires or rattles

 

i reset all the carb hoping to fix this & calibrating the carb on the road like one of the videos that i watched on youtube doing this my car runs rich all the time, the start issue is fix ,

 

ok, well lowering the float will not make your car rich so the level is fine and .040" is nothing.

 

what is your idle and max timing now?

 

what was it before without the vac adv connected?

 

what was it with it connected?

 

why do you think it is rich now?

 

where are you buying gas that has lead in it?

 

when did the plug fouling start?

 

what is your spark plug number?

 

if the plugs are too cold they cab foul.

 

what do you mean you calibrated the carb on the road?

 

what else did you change?

.

Edited October 6, 2014 by barnett468

[juit 34]

what is your idle and max timing now? I dont know but it was calibrated with a mechanice on a shop and recurved with the him also, he put a mark on the engine

 

what was it before without the vac adv connected? it was on full vac to the intake

 

what was it with it connected? full manifold

 

why do you think it is rich now? the air fuel ratio wont move from rich and smell a lot of gas

 

where are you buying gas that has lead in it? gas from mexico no ethanol, never had this issue with the 2 barrel

 

when did the plug fouling start? after the carb swap

 

what is your spark plug number? motorcraft asf 52c

 

if the plugs are too cold they can foul, no they are hot

 

what do you mean you calibrated the carb on the road? engine fully heat stoped and see the vacum gauge and open or closed the idle screws adusted the throtle screw that stuff

 

what else did you change? intake, 1 inch spacer and carb only

Edited October 6, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

the timming I dont know but it was calibrated with a mech on the shop and recurved with the him also, he put a mark on the engine

 

it was on full vac to the intake

 

the air fuel ratio wont move from rich

 

gas grom mexico no ethanol, never had this issue with the 2 barrel

 

i added more questions to my post. please try to answer them or we can't help you much.

 

what do you mean the afr won't move?

 

we need way more info.

[juit 34]

the afr is constant green and wont move even when the engine is fully warmed

 

it will move to yellow for second when gear is in

 

answered them thanks

Edited October 6, 2014 by juit

[barnett468 418]

ok so it tuns fine now i guess and there is no lead build up on the plugs.

 

you can't tune a carb to a perfect afr. if it runs fine and your plugs are not medium brown or darker and the ring on the plug is not heavy black, its pretty close to perfect.

[juit 34]

Im gonna do a trip today and check em , but my gauge is on green all the time so how do I fix that?

[barnett468 418]

if your car runs fine with no hesitation or flat spots, and your plugs look good there is nothing to fix.