Fantastic 57 Report post Posted July 23, 2014 The videos tell the story: Enjoy the soundtrack done by my 5 year old playing Garage Band on the iPad. At least she has talent. I have stubborn determination, but no talent.. Fantastic 2 CiaraFife and Selmadox reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted July 23, 2014 I dig the music. Where did you buy that car? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70fastbak 16 Report post Posted July 25, 2014 (edited) So what did happen next????? I personally would choose my welds over factory welds, lol. At least id know it was welded and not a bunch of missed spot welds because it was Friday and the builder wanted a beer. What kind of body/paint shops are you taking this thing too? Edited July 25, 2014 by 70fastbak Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted July 25, 2014 I purchased the original car out of London Ontario, although that car ended up as a parts car (the green one) with the body rebuilt and resold. The replacement body (Mach I) that I ended up building came out of NY. I have not had good luck with body/restoration shops. In fact, I have heard horror stories from so many shops that I wonder how anybody can do it. There are good ones out there, but it has to be clear from the beginning what the price, job scope, quality expectations, and timeline expectations are going to be. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
70fastbak 16 Report post Posted July 25, 2014 I purchased the original car out of London Ontario, although that car ended up as a parts car (the green one) with the body rebuilt and resold. The replacement body (Mach I) that I ended up building came out of NY. I have not had good luck with body/restoration shops. In fact, I have heard horror stories from so many shops that I wonder how anybody can do it. There are good ones out there, but it has to be clear from the beginning what the price, job scope, quality expectations, and timeline expectations are going to be. That's the problem, nobody can tell what to expect until you start digging into it. I work for a restoration shop (actually several), the one im at now is a little different I guess as most customers are millionaires so writing checks isn't a problem. The other two ive worked for have quoted jobs out and have lost their A** because it became way worse once the can was opened up. For the average guy to pay resto shop prices is tough if you want the job done right, nobody see's the time and effort that goes into these things if you want them done right. They come once a week to snap some pics and say 'wow, how much' ...'just for doing that'....always made me laugh. Its a nice change now to hear customers say....'I don't care how much, repair ALL the rust'...you get what you pay for and doing a restoration is no different. The Shelby gt 500 im working on right now I have 100 hours into the priming and blocking, then priming n blocking and so on but itll be the straightest car you've seen. Im glad im doing my own car, there is no way I could afford to pay a shop to do mine, I would have 20 grand in the metal work alone. I have heard of the 'shady' resto shops, im just happy I work at a resto shop that hires employees that have a passion for cars and not there just to bring home a paycheck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted July 25, 2014 That's my dilemma. I'm a perfectionist at heart and would rather not even touch it if I can't get it right but I can't afford to do it right. I'm lucky to have a relatively solid car but I'll have to live with cracked and peeling paint until I can get to a point where I can afford to reskin the doors and get a nice paint Job. The quality I want is probably $20K but that will never happen. I'm sure I will have to lower my standards to a solid $10K job if it's ever gonna get done. I'm sure you've seen this plenty of times. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted July 26, 2014 Yeah, the lesson here is don't buy a POS car thinking you can throw money at it and make it worth more than you throw at it. You will loose the money. There are three options to owning a car like this. ONE -Pay up front for a top notch car. TWO - Buy something that has a solid base with high potential and do all the work yourself in your own shop with low overhead. THREE - Buy someone else's broken dream to take advantage of the massive amounts of money that person has already lost. If you think you are going to buy a cheaper car that needs fixing, and pay someone else to fix it, you are. Better off just buying a finished product. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Posting again to selfishly bump this thread and discuss project cost. The green 1969 Sportroof Mustang purchased at the beginning of the video cost me $5,000. I tore that body down to nothing and built the shell at a total cost of about $15,000 and was unable to resell that perfect shell for the $8,000 asking price. I traded the shell for about $5,000 worth of service for which I got ripped off, essentially losing the shell and the $15k invested. Hey, I had all the fun of building it and I still had all those parts that were taken off the car. Write off the $15k loss and start over. The second shell cost me $6000 and then I started collecting and refurbishing parts to build it. My drive train cost in excess of $10,000. Paint and body expense including fenders, doors, hood, trunk, and suspension have been estimated at over $20,000. Add up the wiring, chrome, exhaust, glass, interior upholstry, custom brakes, rims, tires, and the list goes on... and I am sure I have put in another $14,000. This brings me to the point of owning a car that I have invested an estimated $50,000 into. Again, writing off the $15,000 mistake of the first car. I would like to save you, the reader who is dreaming of doing this, the initial expense of a $15,000 lost of buying a crappy project car. I would also like to forewarn you that building a car of this caliper cost a serious amount of money. If you don't care about the expense, then fill your boots. I would like to tell the sellers of the rusted out project cars that their "restorable project" will cost money to restore. Even if the buyer loves restoring cars, his time has value too and your POS project car is not worth what that immaculate show car sold for at the Barrett Jackson auction. If my fellow forum users disagree with me, that is fine too. I am always interested in discussion. To support my argument, I am attaching a photo of a '66 coupe for sale locally. After the car was stripped down and mounted on a roticerrie, the owner claims he invested $8,000 on fixing the shell. After a few years he lost the drive train, many of the parts, and any papers including the registration. he was further discouraged when a large oak tree fell on the shell, so he has offered to sell it at a loss and is only asking $5,000 for what he has there. How is that for a great deal?? Edited December 16, 2014 by Fantastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted December 16, 2014 (edited) Posting again to selfishly bump this thread and discuss project cost. The green 1969 Sportroof Mustang purchased at the beginning of the video cost me $5,000. I tore that body down to nothing and built the shell at a total cost of about $15,000 and was unable to resell that perfect shell for the $8,000 asking price. I traded the shell for about $5,000 worth of service for which I got ripped off, essentially losing the shell and the $15k invested. Hey, I had all the fun of building it and I still had all those parts that were taken off the car. Write off the $15k loss and start over. The second shell cost me $6000 and then I started collecting and refurbishing parts to build it. My drive train cost in excess of $10,000. Paint and body expense including fenders, doors, hood, trunk, and suspension have been estimated at over $20,000. Add up the wiring, chrome, exhaust, glass, interior upholstry, custom brakes, rims, tires, and the list goes on... and I am sure I have put in another $14,000. This brings me to the point of owning a car that I have invested an estimated $50,000 into. Again, writing off the $15,000 mistake of the first car. I would like to save you, the reader who is dreaming of doing this, the initial expense of a $15,000 lost of buying a crappy project car. I would also like to forewarn you that building a car of this caliper cost a serious amount of money. If you don't care about the expense, then fill your boots. I would like to tell the sellers of the rusted out project cars that their "restorable project" will cost money to restore. Even if the buyer loves restoring cars, his time has value too and your POS project car is not worth what that immaculate show car sold for at the Barrett Jackson auction. If my fellow forum users disagree with me, that is fine too. I am always interested in discussion. To support my argument, I am attaching a photo of a '66 coupe for sale locally. After the car was stripped down and mounted on a roticerrie, the owner claims he invested $8,000 on fixing the shell. After a few years he lost the drive train, many of the parts, and any papers including the registration. he was further discouraged when a large oak tree fell on the shell, so he has offered to sell it at a loss and is only asking $5,000 for what he has there. How is that for a great deal?? Edited December 16, 2014 by Fantastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 16, 2014 Just discovered this thread, thanks for sharing it Fantastic. I'm sure there are many more stories like yours out there which for obvious reasons no one likes telling. I'm sure our cars are like gambling in Vegas, you always hear about the winners but not the losers. I feel your pain Fantastic, keep up the good fight. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 16, 2014 Just discovered this thread, thanks for sharing it Fantastic. I'm sure there are many more stories like yours out there which for obvious reasons no one likes telling. I'm sure our cars are like gambling in Vegas, you always hear about the winners but not the losers. I feel your pain Fantastic, keep up the good fight. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 17, 2014 I had a Gulfstream Aqua 69 CJ with white interior ,i wish i still had it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted December 17, 2014 I had a Gulfstream Aqua 69 CJ with white interior ,i wish i still had it . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted December 18, 2014 (edited) Just got my latest shopping list from the shop. I hope this gets me to the end of it. PM me if you are able to help. 2-low beam headlights 2-high beam headlights 4-chrome retainer rings --Got it! 8-headlight adjusting screws 4-headlight bulb retainer springs A/C dash panel vents Heater control valve A/C 2-Defrost duct hoses Speedo cable Energency Brake Cables Drive Shaft - From RUG-AG (302,351 close 28-spline) to 9 inch rear 1969 Mustang Deluxe/Mach 1 Door Panel Kit Includes: ** Door Panels with Carpet (already have these) - Deluxe Door Panel Mounting Kits (for both doors) - Pair of Scott Drake Deluxe Wood Grain Door Panel Inserts (light teak) - Pair of Scott Drake Deluxe Door Panel Tri-Bar Pony Emblems - Pair of Deluxe Stainless Steel Door Panel Moldings - Pair of Deluxe Door Panel Lights with Mounting Hardware - Pair of Deluxe Metal Door Panel Cups - Pair of Deluxe Door Panel Cup Inserts - Pair of Scott Drake Deluxe Arm Rest Brackets - Pair of Interior Door Handle Assemblies with Mounting Hardware - Pair of Deluxe Door Handle Trim Plates - Pair of Chrome Door Lock Knobs - Pair of Front Window Cranks with Mounting Hardware - Pair of Window Crank Washers - Pair of Window Crank Knobs - Door Watershield Set - 3M Watershield Adhesive - beltline weatherstrips - door/trunk/ignition lock set - Mirror adjusting bezel and nut - Door lock knob grommets - Door light speaker wiring - Door bottom seals lower Rear louver bottom latches and louver installation kit Front Spoiler Shaker Trim Ring Shaker air cleaner Base (351w) Roof Side Ornament Pair Seatbelts Accelerator pedal, rod and pivot, cable, bracket Edited December 18, 2014 by Fantastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted January 7, 2015 Waiting to update for the new year. I can't believe this project has been gone on so long! I was able to buy a lot of the parts I need to get going again. Most of them are enroute from CJ Pony. I am always frustrated buying from them because they flash all these "free shipping" signs and then I get nailed for shipping into Canada. To rub salt in the wound they give me loyalty points that expire long before I would save up enough for another shipment of parts. So tired of the "made of gold" parts prices. At least I am getting closer to finished. Maybe I'll soon get to hear the new engine that has been sitting in the engine bay for years and has never been started! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SparkyGT 26 Report post Posted January 7, 2015 well, its good to hear your keeping at it, reminds me of my 66 coupe, was a $500 car and was rusty, my buddy offered to do the bodywork, and he is a journeyman bodyman, so he cut me a great buddy deal, otherwise that car woulda went to the field and sat. he did alot of rust replacement, and it was altogether cheaper than getting a "new" shell. so its painted and ready to put back together. metal work guesstimate woulda be in the 30k range at a shop. as for shipping, if youu ever go to maine, they may have some of those border storage locations like we have out west, way cheaper to ship to the usa border, then hop across and pick up your parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 Won an auction for front seat belts. I seem to recall the rear seatbelts did not have retractors. I might do an upgrade so I don't have seatbelts laying on the seats all the time. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/fantasticpinball/Cars/1969%20Mustang/Seatbelts.jpg I have bought lots of the parts off my list. They are all made of gold apparently. I am amazed how many parts the doors break down to. A set of fully populated doors are apparently worth as much as this car sold for brand new! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted January 12, 2015 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted January 13, 2015 Won an auction for front seat belts. I seem to recall the rear seatbelts did not have retractors. I might do an upgrade so I don't have seatbelts laying on the seats all the time. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/fantasticpinball/Cars/1969%20Mustang/Seatbelts.jpg I have bought lots of the parts off my list. They are all made of gold apparently. I am amazed how many parts the doors break down to. A set of fully populated doors are apparently worth as much as this car sold for brand new! Putting retractable belts in the rear would be a nice modification. Anyone know the best source for them? I would want to use stock or stock looking female ends. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted January 19, 2015 http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/fantasticpinball/Cars/1969%20Mustang/imagejpg3.jpg Fresh parts means more progress. I am thrilled to see this project finally coming together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarkBuddha 107 Report post Posted January 20, 2015 First, thanks for posting this and congrats on the progress with the second car. I'm impressed with your fortitude and determination, if not so much by your judgement. Second, stories like this continue to reinforce some observations and views I've been formulating, some for decades now... 1. Far too many people ask too much for crap "project" cars, and far too many people pay for them. 2. Any minimal amount of shopping the market (and auctions) will show that plenty of very decent cars are available for pennies on the dollar of restoring a beat, rusted "project" car. 3. On a fundamental level, it costs essentially the same to restore something like a big block Mach or Boss 302 as it does a lowly F code coupe or H code Mach; choose wisely. 4. Restoring a car is almost always a money losing proposition unless you're either really good at DIY'ing it, or you score an incredibly valuable example for an incredibly good deal. It takes money to make money either way. 5. The cost of those Dynacorn replacement chassis is far more reasonable than I care to admit. Anyway, I hope the new car is everything you want and more. You've certainly earned having more than a bit of your dream come true. And as a composer, I think your 5 year old has A TON of talent! Do everything you can to foster it. And please, oh please, get her teachers that will show her how to use her talent for good rather than evil... The world needs more real music and less trite pop garbage. 1 Zefevinee reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted January 21, 2015 Need some input from my team mates here. I am putting air on my build. I have most parts, but need the two idlers from the front of the motor. I am near broke, so I am trying to find local parts to save shipping charges, and I can't afford to get the wrong parts. So, a semi local guy sent me some photos. Can anyone tell me the correct part numbers for the two idlers and confirm what will fit the 351w? Photos of what is offered locally. http://s246.photobucket.com/user/fantasticpinball/media/Cars/1969%20Mustang/imagejpg1-2.jpg.html http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg120/fantasticpinball/Cars/1969%20Mustang/imagejpg2-2.jpg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted February 2, 2015 I have a 302 and I was looking at my idler last night. I can verify that part number for you, does that help? I will say that your alternator bracket looks the same as mine. Regardless, I'll post the 302 numbers tonight. They could be interchangeable. Need a 351W person to help though. I love the body color. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 My idler doesn't have a part number. http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b127/TexasEd/1969%20Mustang/20150202_230207_zps6w13fytn.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b127/TexasEd/1969%20Mustang/20150202_230201_zpst0f3jxdk.jpg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fantastic 57 Report post Posted February 3, 2015 after seeing the rediculous prices being asked for the lateral support bracket that holds the A/C idler pulley, I've decided to go on with more important parts of the build. I'll come back to the A/C system later if I ever find the parts at a reasonable price. We are working on wiring and we are almost ready to install the interior. Also near ready to start the engine, but everything has to be checked. In the 7 years I've had this car I've had several military posting and there have been a lot of hands on the car. Everything has to be checked and double checked. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
