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MikeStang

Factory Serpentine Belt Set-Up

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Okay So I decided I wanted a Serp System so I ran to the Junk Yard and paid $17.00 For the two brackets and all the bolts.

I got some replacement pulleys and a Power steering pump and 130 Amp g4 Alternator.

Here's my question lets see if anyone has an answer.

 

The first picture of the kit on the 351W was one belt routing option I had considered since I wasn't running a smog pump and don't have my AC kit as of yet.

I decided that this didn't look worth a crap so I got me an idler Pulley with sides on it and rerouted the belt.

The way that the belt is run now allows all of the accessories to turn in the right direction, but I wanted some opinions about if you thought the tensioner arrangement would work ok.

The tensioner rotates CCW to relieve the tension and with the sweep angle the way I had the belt in the first pic didnt allow for much adjustment at all if the belt stretched.

The second one allows the tensioner to work perfectly and its sitting half way through its sweep range.

Oh I would like to dispel a few myths about FACTORY Serp kits.

302/351W kits WILL interchange...As long as the 302 kit bolts exclusively to the heads it will fit a 351W...Even some that use a bolt hole for the water pump will work if you elongate the hole...

 

This kit is off of a 1993 Ford F150 with 351W

There are several different set-ups in my local junk yard and I will be going back tomorrow to find a 4R70 Yolk if anyone would like me to snag them something let me know.

once i'm sure everything with this kit works I will give the info on the parts u need to replicate it.

 

Also take note of the Idler pulley....the belt has to run ribs down on this pulley so I bought an Idler with Sides on it to help keep belt on track...I can get one with Ribs on it if that would be a better option?

Opinions??

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I'm not expert on serpentine set ups but set up # 2 seems to make more sense than # 1.

 

I want to do the same on a 351C. It wont have air or power steering so it would just run the alternator and W/pump. I want to do something like a factory look and not the polished chrome stuff. I've been trying to figure what stock pulleys could be used. March does make a system and I could powder-coat it black if need be, but I was thinking I would try and figure out how to make some stock parts work even If I have to machine some brackets.

 

I just like the serpentine look

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Edit: Here is the diagram:

2010-03-04_204712_Q2601E.gif

 

Make sure your idler pulley doesn't have ribs on it. It should be smooth. Typically if the pulley is smooth, the back of the belt goes against the smooth pulley. If it is ribbed, then the ribs go against it.

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Yeah B I have a reverse rotation pump.

The idler in your diagram is NOW a ribbed pulley since I eliminated the smog pump and re-routed the belt in a different manner so as to make the tensioner work.

Thus it put the belt Ribs down so I got a ribbed idler.

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Danno,

When you say deviate I have to assume your talking about why go to a serpentine kit?

1. Only 1 belt not 2 or 3 to worry about

2. Self adjusting via tensioner.

3. Look cleaner and lighter weight wise.

4. Allows upgraded accessories at less cost and if they happen to go out its much easier to get parts for it.

 

Now if your asking why deviate from the factory serpentine belt routing.

1. I don't want to run the smog pump and by doing that u have to change routing or spend 80 bucks on a smog pump eliminator bracket.

The kit is factory with the smog pump because it's off of a 1993 Ford f150.

That's the reason I deviated from standard routing.

Saved cash and saved more cap from being under my hood.

 

The serpentine setup is so much cleaner than factory an db you never get that belt whine from serp nearly like u do from Vbelts, plus it don't slip in the higher RPM range

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Thanks for the info. Some of these reasons I would not have realized, like the slip at high rpm.

I was referring to deviation from the factory setup. But both your answers were revealing. I am wondering if it is also perhaps more or less stress on the bearings on all turning components. I thought that also might be a consideration.

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Didn't consider the pull on the bearings.

It always seems you can never get those V-Belts tight enough, and you always need a pry bar and wrench set to do it...Convert to Serp and never touch it again lol.

The AC Compressor replacement is smaller as well and is a factory bolt on deal with no extra adapter brackets

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MikeStang...can you please tell me what you used for your serpentine setup? I'm building a 69 408 stroker and want to go with a serpentine setup. No air-power steering and alt. I see you used a 93 F-150 but did you have to go back to the yard and get other parts.

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The 5.0 I will be building for my 69 Coupe had serpentine belt set up on it from the factory already so I am going to leave it. In the attached link it shows it was originally 2 belts, 1 belt ran around the crank, idler, a/c comp, & the air pump, the other belt went around the crank, the water pump, alt, & the p/s pump. I have not decided if I am going to  relocate the alt from where it sits in the diagram over the p/s pump on the drivers side of the engine its normal spot on a Mustang on the pass side or leave it the way it came. My car will not have a/c so I could move the alt to the pass side & leave the p/s pump on the drivers side like they were originally set up on Mustangs & use 2 serpentine belts, the 5.0 already has a double crank pulley. Click on the link & scroll down for the diagram.

 

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1969934&fpart=1

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