'69 Mach 1 - resto modified w/stroker build

[stangnet33 88]

So I got this car in 1982 and for being a Mach 1, this one doesn't have much for options really and seems to have seen a rough life before I got it as you will see. I'll be adding a few options to it that I like. I haven't driven this car since about 1994. I had it painted shortly after I got it but it ended up being a real disaster and wasn't any further ahead. Lets just say I hate body shops as I haven't had one good experience yet when I've needed one. I'll be doing all of this project.   

[Ash 145]

Well....I wont try and sell you air Jordan's like the previous post. But it's good to see you getting stuck into it!

 

What's the plan with the driveline mods? I see it is a shaker car but can not remember what was placed under it.

 

You got much rust to deal with along the way?

 

82 was a good year :thumbup:

[stangnet33 88]

 So some of my planned mods are :

- It's only 351w car, so will go  stroked to 408 (could change ) Its a a '69 block and matching
heads made just before the car. I would like to add a paxton super
charger as this is not an original shaker car. Serpentine belt set-up.

- Turn it into a manual (FMX originally) with a TKO 600 or at least an OD
auto.

- A TCP front suspension and will probably stay with leaf rear suspension for now, but I will 
add caltrac's & a sway bar. I'd like a multi-link but down the road , (all
about money). TCP rack & pinion (not sure about P/S yet),Sub-frame
connectors.

- Disc brake upgrade front (has factory front dics already) & rear. Not sure what size rims yet, 17" or 18" and
315's on the rear or 295's as I want the folding rear seat.

- Body & interior will mostly stay original as I love the car as is with
maybe a few tweaks like TCI seat covers w/the beefed up bolsters,
lose a few body seams and add a folding rear seat. Body color is not a
lock yet, but options are stay original which is Silver Jade, or a
green of some sort like the stang built during the '09 SEMA show
by Galpin or maybe Crimsom Magenta ( ? ) its like a really dark
burgandy.

Thats all I can think about at the moment.

Edited October 16, 2016 by stangnet33

[stangnet33 88]

So to get the juices flowing I made a body work stand. Just some 1" electric conduit pipe, water heater insulation tubing, chain and misc bolts'n hooks. I have lots of tools because of one of my professions, but it always seems like "I want or need that ". I'm also one of those "I can make that instead" lol. Cost me about $23 to make and for a good premade heavy duty one is around $50 to $85.

 

 

 

and this was a money shot, as a friend said it wouldn't hold much. It got me a case of beer :laugh:

 

[stangnet33 88]

You got much rust to deal with along the way? 82 was a good year :thumbup:

 

Yes there seems to be a far amount of rust ( not as bad as some others on the board are dealing with but .... ) along with some really poor old repairs.

[Ash 145]

Nice work on scoring the case of beer! I've got a few of those stands, I didn't make them though, they were a birthday or chrissy present. They come in handy all the time for all kinds of things.

 

You still planning on going with the SPI paints?

[69stanggt 10]

Hey stangnet33--

 

As far as the green, I was going to have my '69 GT Sportroof car shot the original Silver Jade. Then the shop owner came to me with a catalog from Ditzler and said, "Take a look at these greens before you make a final decision...." I immediately fell in love with the Diztler Radiance II "Shamrock Green" color. A bit lighter shade of green-- not a lot brighter-- but significantly more metallic without looking gawdy (to me anyway).

 

I need some more current photos in the sunlight. But here is a photo from a few years back. Again, not a good angle- so sorry for photo quality.

 

I've actually had a couple pretty unusual moments while driving the car. First, a co-worker asked me one day if I had driven the car on the local interstate the night before. I said, "Why yes I did..." He went on to tell me he figured it was my car because he spotted it a 1/2 mile away. The second incident happened just before a small group of us traveled to Dearborn for the 100th Anniversary Celebration (neat event) in 2003. I was rolling up to a stop light on a four lane road. As I slowed to a stop there were two cars at the road intersecting from my right. The first car was stopped with a older lady at the wheel, and the second vehicle was a Ford Ranger with a young man driving it. The driver of the Ranger did a double-take when he saw my car, mouthed the words, "Oh, Wow!" and then proceeded to run into the stopped car in front of him. Not hard mind you, but enough to tick the lady off! LOL!! I couldn't believe it when it happened and still get smile to this day when I think about it. I was glad no one was hurt, but sure did have a laugh!

 

My point- green can be a great color and there are not many of them out there. The Silver Jade is one of those factory colors that appeals to me too. Just looks good to my eyes. You guys are an inspiration for my own coupe project. The stories and pics will help re-light the fire to get it back together during the next year. And I appreciate that a lot! :yes: BTW-- love the photo of Fido on the stand. Hope you enjoyed the winnings! LOL! :yes:

Edited July 1, 2014 by 69stanggt
clarification

[stangnet33 88]

You still planning on going with the SPI paints?

 

Yes for their wax & grease remover, epoxies/primers and clear. I'll also be getting some slick sand. As for paint not decided yet as I'm not locked on a color yet.

[stangnet33 88]

69stanggt - Nice fastback ! I see what you mean about your green. So what color is the coupe going to be ? I like Silver Jade and it seems to becoming a more welcomed color at shows. I just might want something with a little more pop. This is the Galpin mustang, just ignore the white I don't really like it on this car, I'm staying with the Mach black out hood and side/trunk strip.

 

[Mike65 475]

Nice green. That is like the shade green I want to paint my Coupe.

[69stanggt 10]

The coupe is '69 Ford Winter Blue and was a color available for the Mustang in '69. It will also have a white vinyl top. Thanks again to Mike for the factory molding hole locations. :yes: The roof is dull as it will be scuffed prior to the vinyl top installation. You're really looking at dragpack69's skills straightening body panels and shooting paint. Without his garage, tools and expertise, I would probably still be scratching my head about where to begin! LOL! The one thing I was pretty good at was making piles of paint, rust and dirt. I spent many hours running a wire wheel on an angle grinder. Old school I guess.

 

That is a nice green too. Yeah, I could do without the white scheme on that car. Isn't the '69 Sportsroof the best?? I fell in love with it when I was all of 10 or 12 years old. I was only nine the fall of '69. I had the bug bad within a couple years. That and dad worked at the Sandusky Ohio parts plant for 37 years. The blue oval is kind of burned in I guess. :thumbup: Green car bought in '86; painted in '87. Having fun ever since.

I'll be following your progress-- keep it up! 69stanggt

[stangnet33 88]

So here are a few of the things to deal with :



A crumple zone at the passenger rear.



Rotting rear frame rails and you can see subsequent damage from the rear impact.



Some of the fine body work when I had quarters done during first bodyshop that painted the car.



The many colors during it's life.




Some more fine body work 



Another bodyshop visit - sent to have the fender aprons replaced, they didn't even seal/epoxy between the overlaped area's or coat the rear aprons at all. I caught them pulling almost straight down on the new aprons attempting to "spread the towers" . I stood there until a tow truck came to get the car out of there.



Signs of the car sitting for many years after that , mouse crap everywhere. At least I covered the seats, can't say much for the new carpet at the time.

[69stanggt 10]

Mike-

 

Isn't it amazing how much stuff you find once you dig into one of these 45 year-old ponies?? The coupe project was from the West Coast so it had far less rust than most I've seen. Thought I had a good starting point. What we found were the following, some of which is like your problems--

 

The driver's side had been hit or went into a ditch maybe. Result- we found crinkled inner fender and radiator core support. A different driver's door with a dinner plate size repair done entirely in bondo. A "B" pillar from another car. A poorly done repair of the driver's quarter. The panel had been hammered and heated so much it oil-canned. The driver's rocker panel top surface appeared to have been hammered or otherwise abused so that it had two depressions that needed attention. Also found that a minor rear collision put a small wrinkle in the rear fram rail. Looks similar to wrinkled rail in your photo. Drip rails along posts at windshield sides rusted through. Taillight panel brazed and needed replacing. When the "B" pillar was replaced, the damage to the floor was not straightened. It was raised a couple inches and deformed. JT hammered this back down, but it wasn't easy. A PO or shop couldn't get the aftermarket muffler for the dual exhaust to fit, so they hammered the floor until the muffler cleared--AND the rear floor pan seam opened under the seat cushion. That floor section was like Swiss cheese. That was replaced. And then there were the typical Mustang rust places around window moldings and door bottoms. Not terrible, but pin holes and blisters. Paint and filler can hide many a sin...... :shifty:

 

It looks like you're identifying many of the repair needs up front. I wished I had done something similar. A couple hours with a D/A and we would have found many of these problems before we got started. That's in the rearview mirror now and called experience I guess.

 

I'm enjoying your thread. Keep it goin'. :thumbup1:

[stangnet33 88]

So managed to finish pulling out the steering column and dash. I'll put these to the side as they will make good winter projects. Also finally got the diff out and that was a bear. The front spring shackle bolts were seized solid and wouldn't come out no matter what I tried, so I ended up just cutting them off. You sure realize how spoiled you are in a professional shop when you try do things at home.




Put the '69 351w up on a engine stand and cleaned it up a bit. It will be stroked out to probably a 408 and hopefully have a Paxton stuffing the air into it.

[stangnet33 88]

For those of you that have never had a chance to see the difference between a 351w vs a 351c 4 barrel heads I thought I'd post a couple of pic's. I still smile when I look at these heads. I ran these in a '71 coupe I had back in the day doing some racing. The 4 barrel Clevland's are on the left of coarse.

Edited October 16, 2016 by stangnet33
info

[stangnet33 88]

Also did a little shopping, got all the inner aprons from Dynacorn and a rear tail light panel cheap on Kijiji. They managed to get all the aprons into one box, sure helped with shipping costs.

 

[Rcodenewf 44]

Did you get your aprons from The Mustang Shop in Calgary? I buy a ton of parts from them..very satisfied. Customer service is awesome.

 

John

[Tgriffin91 27]

Thank you for posting the comparison for the 351s. But... which is which? All I know is Windsors are more common but Clevelands can provide more power. Is this correct? Based on that assumption I would guess right is W and left is C?

[stangnet33 88]

Sorry about that, the clevand is on the left. Made the correction, I just thought by then I was babbling to much :huh:. They made a ton of power on the top end, without much modifications. Had a real problem keeping header gaskets in them and found them pretty usless for any sensable street driving. I always wanted to try them on a windsor, but just have never got around to trying them.

[stangnet33 88]

Ever since Mr Sawchuck sold it way back then I haven't gone back to often. I tried on a number of occasions but found them to be kind of arrogant or couldn't give you the time of day every time I went in there. I got them straight from Dynacorn. I was going to order them from CJ Pony during their shipping sale to Canada, but after exchange and such it ended up being a lot cheaper.

 

Did you get your aprons from The Mustang Shop in Calgary? I buy a ton of parts from them..very satisfied. Customer service is awesome.

 

John

[RPM 1,190]

All I know is Windsors are more common but Clevelands can provide more power.

 

In the 70's. When the 5.0's became popular and aftermarket heads became available, the smaller, lighter, stroked Windsor took off. How many street cars need top end? Clevelands are cool. If the build wasn't so expensive a Cleveland headed Windsor is really cool.

 

Bob

[Ash 145]

I've got a Clevor here in the shed. Dad and I picked it up years ago but never went ahead with the car it was planned to go into. The guy we got it off didn't know what it was and we got a bargain. It has 2V heads, roller rockers and a 69 Boss intake. Haven't had it apart so do not know what is inside but it's meant to be a little ripper. Just need a car one day to drop it into.

 

 

 

[RPM 1,190]

Wtf Ash??? You guys in Oz get all the cool stuff. Nice score mate. Let me guess, the boss intake is worth more than you paid for the entire motor.

 

Bob

[Ash 145]

I think it might be, Bob. :thumbup: We got it for about $1200, that was about 10 years ago. The guys son smashed the car and he was trying to recoup some funds.

[stangnet33 88]

Clevelands are cool. If the build wasn't so expensive a Cleveland headed Windsor is really cool. Bob

 

Ya, back then to fix up a Chev engine vs a Ford, Chev had a lot of stuff that was interchangable, relatively cheap and a broad selection (eg cam offerings) compared to Ford where hardly anything was interchangable and expensive. And when it came to Mustang part's '69-'70's always seemed to have the more expensive parts. Things seem to have evened out a little better now.