Cam recommendation for 351W

[dkm004 11]

Alrighty then...

 

Im planning a rebuild of my 69 351W in the fall and starting to collect parts. Currently it runs nicely with a Comp Cams 270H, Holley 675 and ported stock heads and 3.25 gears, with new 3.55 gears are going in this week.

 

The new build will include a refinished stock block and rotating assembly, AFR 185 heads, performer intake, Hooker headers, MSD ign. The trans is an FMX with shift kit and stock converter...My question is about the cam choice...Ive been looking into the Thumpr but read very mixed reviews online. I would like to stick with the CC product but would consider Lutani a roller or flat tappet set up. Its strictly street driven and would like to see 400ish HP out of it.

 

Thoughts?

Edited June 10, 2014 by dkm004

[MustangChuck 16]

I have thoughts, but they are pure speculation.

 

I am assuming the 270H you are running is 31-414-3 -- Magnum w/ 0.500" lift and 224* duration, hydraulic flat tappet. The specs on it appear to be very nice.

 

For a roller cam and those nice heads, you can look at the Magnum 31-432-8 (0.512"/220*) or the 31-442-8 (0.533"/224*). Both are listed as retro-fit roller cams. Their power bands are more narrow than your current cam, though.

 

Two particular cams I've been looking at are the Nostalgia Plus 31-670-4 and 31-671-4 simply for their sound. With the second, you should be close to 400hp with the rest of the setup (just a super wild ass guess). They are both hydraulic, flat tappet cams.

Two non-Comp Cams to consider. The Crower 15511 and 15512. With the heads and displacement, the 15512 should work nicely. The 15513 may also be considered. All are listed for original hydraulic roller blocks.

 

DISCLAIMER: I don't have any of these cams, nor have I gotten to ride in a car with them. I also haven't a clue about proper cam selection. Just my speculation..... :wacko:

 

Chuck

 

[MustangChuck 16]

I have attached a zip file containing a spreadsheet I put together a few years ago. It contains information on quite a few cams for the Ford Windsor Small Block family (289, 302, 351 and their smaller siblings). It is a bit out of date as many of the cam manufacturers I have listed have new cams available.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Chuck

[RPM 1,279]

Mustang Steve has a write up on a 400hp 351w.

 

http://www.mustangsteve.com/351W_Parts.html

 

Bob

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

I dont think it would get to the 400hp mark with that intake manifold.

[Alan_Mac 48]

I dont think it would get to the 400hp mark with that intake manifold.

 

I agree, performer RPM air gap would be a good choice if you can fit it in. Also ditch the stock converter.

[dkm004 11]

Im fairly certain the RPM manifold wont fit. Given what I have to work with what would be a solid choice?

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

Im fairly certain the RPM manifold wont fit. Given what I have to work with what would be a solid choice?

A drop base filter wont work? I, along with others, made a Victor Jr. fit by cutting the hood under the stock scoop. I don't know of any other viable option, except for adjustable/lowering motor mounts. I think they lower the engine about 1/2". Not sure if the Torker intakes are any better than the performers, maybe those?

[fordguy69 24]

You will do better by getting a custom cam grind from one of the guys that knows Fords. Most off the shelf cams are ground on Chevy lobe libraries and are a compromise for Ford heads. A custom cam doesn't cost much more than off the shelf but will work better for YOUR combination.

 

Try these guys. They KNOW fords.

 

http://reincarnation-automotive.com/about_us, goes by the name Mad Porter on a few sites. Really knows his stuff. Getting my next cam from him, he really knows 460's. And he is a great guy to talk to or email with.

 

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/ Got a cam from them a few years back for a Jeep with a 302 ford. He ground it for my specific needs and it works really well, plus they offer a break in service for flat tappets. They really know small blocks.

 

Both of these guys are EMC competitors and specialize in Fords.

[Alan_Mac 48]

I have a stock motor mount height and have a Performer RPM intake under my stock shaker.

[cavboy78 28]

i have a 351w (F4TE block), stock stroke, with the rpm air gap intake and rhs 200 heads. I used the CC XE274HR and it made around 435/430 on engine dyno. smooth enough idle for daily driving but still has a nice lope to it. details in the thread below.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&highlight=heads+power

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

i have a 351w (F4TE block), stock stroke, with the rpm air gap intake and rhs 200 heads. I used the CC XE274HR and it made around 435/430 on engine dyno. smooth enough idle for daily driving but still has a nice lope to it. details in the thread below.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&highlight=heads+power

Those are pretty good numbers, I wonder how comparable the RHS 200 heads and AFR 185's are. Any flow numbers that you know of? Also, have you taken it to a chassis dyno to see what it puts down to the ground?

 

To the OP, what cam do you have? I cant find a "270H" for a 351w at Comp Cams.

Edited June 11, 2014 by THE EVIL TW1N

[cavboy78 28]

I think they flow a little less than AFR 185s on intake, but a little more on exhaust.

 

rhs 200 flow data

.200 .300. .400 .500 .600 .700

119 172 216 244 264 275

104 140 174 193 203 209

[cavboy78 28]

Evil,

 

Chassis dyno is on my to-do list. I'm contemplating doing a chassis run as it currently sits...then put in the fast or MSD atomic efi...then another dyno run.

[sportsroof69 13]

i have a 351w (F4TE block), stock stroke, with the rpm air gap intake and rhs 200 heads. I used the CC XE274HR and it made around 435/430 on engine dyno. smooth enough idle for daily driving but still has a nice lope to it. details in the thread below.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&highlight=heads+power

 

I ran this cam with TW185s and a Stealth intake, and it ran 12.80s with a toploader. It was a fun engine.

[dkm004 11]

Those are pretty good numbers, I wonder how comparable the RHS 200 heads and AFR 185's are. Any flow numbers that you know of? Also, have you taken it to a chassis dyno to see what it puts down to the ground?

 

To the OP, what cam do you have? I cant find a "270H" for a 351w at Comp Cams.

 

Part number for the 270H magnum is 35-414-3, It works nicely with my current set up.

 

Im leaning towards one of two choices for the new build at this point.

 

Lunati 61003 or the Comp Cams XE274 Any thoughts?

[sportsroof69 13]

If you're going to be freaked out, or complain about valvetrain noise, steer clear of the XE cam. There are no issues with them, but some people hate the noise.

Edited June 11, 2014 by sportsroof69

[dkm004 11]

If you're going to be freaked out, or complain about valvetrain noise, stead clear of the XE cam. There are no issues with them, but some people hate the noise.

 

Ya, I have read that about them, not so with the Lunati tho. They seem to be a popular choice.

Edited June 11, 2014 by dkm004

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

Evil,

 

Chassis dyno is on my to-do list. I'm contemplating doing a chassis run as it currently sits...then put in the fast or MSD atomic efi...then another dyno run.

Are you having issues with driveability? I don't think I would ever switch to EFI if I didn't feel it was necessay. If I drove my car in a full range of weather (0-100*) and elevations changes, I would consider it.

[cavboy78 28]

Evil,

 

I'm currently in the army and do move around quite a bit. Last job i was at 6600' and am currently at 200'. I drive the car as much as I can and I personally want the increased drivability of EFI...especially when you're leaving for work at 0430 on a chilly morning. Plus, I am deployed in afghanistan right now. Afghanistan=No income taxes=$$ for EFI!

 

OP,

 

Not sure what you're driving style is, but i love nothing more than doing what my grandfather called, "blowing out the carbon"...all the way to 6100 RPMs. Having an engine that runs out of steam early is no fun. With your heads, I would recommend the air gap over the performer rpm. If you're worried about hood clearance, you can use lowering engine mounts (RMP, etc...). My .02.

Edited June 12, 2014 by cavboy78