turn signal switch question

[stangme428 33]

ok -- i have now gone through two aftermarket 69 turn signal switches, both stated "from original tooling" ...

 

first one - rivet popped off of eyelet - still have it may modify it

second one - dunno yet but similar symptoms, no left blinker and no brake lights, after very little use ...have not taken it apart yet...

 

so what turn signal switch are you all running on daily drivers?

[SA69mach 39]

Original unit on my 69 Mach 1. Works fine.

 

On my 70 coupe the left turn would not cancel, due to a broken arm on the shite plastic portion - common problem.

I ordered an original working replacement from West Coast Cougar and it fit right in and has worked fine for 2 years. Just for giggles I bought the "repair unit" from a parts store (Oreillys I think) for 10 or 12 bucks and had a go at repairing my broken unit, to keep as a good spare. And to see if it could be done and how it would work.

 

Well, It is a devil of a thing trying to get the retaining ring/cap off the stud, The method suggested on the instructions was to use a small flat bladed screw driver, but I found that just did not work. Nor "small needle nose pliers" In the end I got it off with a combination of a small sharp tool and some taps with a tiny hammer. there really is not enough material to properly grip it with pliers of any kind.

 

You must do this yourself to fully understand the design of the fixing, and the difficulty of disassembling a part that was not designed for disassembly. Anyway, once you get the retainer off, the old plastic part will slide up, on very short wires. Take note of the twist and lay of these wires, and be sure to cut and splice the new wires to exactly the same length, and lay them in the same was as the factory. There is no room for error. Take time to 'smooth' the wires in place and then slide the new plastic assembly onto the stud.

Applying the new steel cap/retainer did not seem to provide a positive lock, to me, but it went on and stayed on. Test the unit turns, locks and releases in the correct way, and you have a finished part ready for spare, or re-installation, or for sale.

 

The repair part is relatively cheap, but be prepared for some patient and tricky work to get it installed .

 

It might be the best option for you to have another look at the eyelet that popped off and see if you can fix it in place, maybe with another similar retainer. I have thought about the little flat retainers with the 'cog' on the inside design. I suppose a good hardware store might have a selection that might fit the shaft perfectly , and stay in place. I cant recall what part I have seen like this, but I seem to remember assembling something on the 69 that had them.

 

Good luck. I think the cougar parts and other fords of the period will also fit, but expect $75 and up, if you can find one.

 

The tilt columns are a different part than the fixed column, when searching.

 

It is one of those parts that just always seems to work best as an original item. Perhaps consider having your original unit restored, or do it yourself.

[SA69mach 39]

Hey, I just remembered what I was working on with the tiny cogged retainers...

 

A quartz clock conversion. Three of them are used in the re-assembly. So I guess old mustang clock movements or watchmaker supplies may have a nice selection of "better" style retainers.

 

Best of luck.

[moodster 55]

I bought a cam repair kit for my original unit and that did not work. I replaced the whole unit with one from NPD (~80) and now everything works great... no problems with horn, turn signals, hazards, etc and I drive the car often.

 

david

[Midlife 840]

A couple of notes about repro turn signal switches.

(1) They usually come with an extra wire. That's because the switch itself is not Mustang specific, but fits most Fords/Lincolns/Mercurys.

(2) The rivet heads on the back side are larger than OEM and they may contact the column base (a grounding plane). I always cover the rivet heads with black electrical tape.

[ashleesmach1 28]

check this out

[SA69mach 39]

If you have a fixed column then the hold down is not a large hex screw, (as in the youtube video), it is a washer/rivet arrangement, and that is where the difficulty arises.

If you have the fixed column I suggest you un clip the loom down low on the column under the dash, unscrew the hold downs in the center of the column and remove the whole unit to a workbench.

You 'should' find a thick short shaft that you can secure in a soft jaw vice and get to work on the rivet with both hands, small tools and great care.

 

The cutting and soldering is as described. Simple stuff, but measure and cut carefully.

[SA69mach 39]

here are some pics of the finished repair I did with just the parts in the 'repair kit' This is for a fixed column on a 70.

[stangme428 33]

ah cool... thanks everyone ... ill pull this one apart the next few weeks and then ill know my options... thanks again!!

[stangme428 33]

as we are just getting back on this troubleshooting..yes... life gets in the way... but after flexing the turn signal switch.. now the blinkers work but no brake lights.... voltage from the brake pedal switch to the turn signal switch... then no voltage on the other side of the turn signal switch... so trying to figure out how to take it apart without destroying it.. lol

 

im nowhere near home at the moment.. or i would solder the first NEW turn signal switch rivet that came apart....

 

never a dull moment..

[70769 18]

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/classic-mustangs/449833-turn-signal-cancelation.html

 

check out this one, namely the diagram I posted.

 

I had some wonkey ass problems when I replaced my turn signal switch