4.6 with SoT track suspension Rusto mod

[Stock 87 12]

He she is in all of her glory. Left to sit under a tree for twenty five years.

Future plans:

Street or track front and rear suspension

4.6 mod motor, carbed with a functioning shaker. 2v or 4v tbd.

5 speed swap

Discs all,around.

Swap out factory power steering for manual.

 

 

 

 

I drug her out, and towed her home.

 

Edited May 4, 2014 by Stock 87

[Stock 87 12]

Once I got her home the tear down began. Turns out the floors were in bad shape.

 

Seemed the farther I dug, the worse it got so out came the floors.

Edited May 4, 2014 by Stock 87

[Stock 87 12]

My next efforts were to make a rotisserie. I'm to damn old to be crawling around under this thing.

 

I don't like the way most guys use the rear bumper mounts to support the car. I went into the frame rails where the original tie downs mount. Plus I need to work on the tail light panel and wouldn't be able to if I mounted it to the bumper mounts.

[Stock 87 12]

This is how she sits as of now.

 

Found this little gem breaking her down.

Unbelievable what some clowns will do with a welder. I have since cut this mess off, remarkably the frame rail wasn't damaged by bozo the welder.

[Stock 87 12]

Next up is send it out as she sits for media blast. I need to see what's left so I can continue with a game plan.

 

I have chance to buy 97 Gt donor. It's where ill get the engine, transmission, rear brakes (maybe) etc.

I'm also going to continue researching if the 32v motor would be worth tracking down. This could end up being the engine that finds its way into the car.

 

One other quick note: I live about 45 minutes from CJ's pony parts. Most if not all of my parts have and will come from them.

[RPM 1,190]

I don't think I have the balls to do these kinds of restos y'all do. My hat is off to you. Yes, that rotisserie will make things much easier. What material do you plan on using to blast it? Good luck with your build.

And welcome to the forum!

 

 

Bob

[waketek516 10]

Looking good. Check my thread. I'm going to be running a VERY similar setup.

[Stock 87 12]

I don't think I have the balls to do these kinds of restos y'all do. My hat is off to you. Yes, that rotisserie will make things much easier. What material do you plan on using to blast it? Good luck with your build.

And welcome to the forum!

 

 

Bob

 

No idea what type of media they are using. Something pretty aggressive I would think. There is a wet type blasting media that is available with a rust preventative mixed into the slurry too.

[MustangChuck 16]

Since you had said you were abandoning the other thread, I figured I'd post this here as well. Sorry for the duplication.

 

You had mentioned that you might look for a mid-90s Lincoln and grab the 4v engine from it. A couple things to think about.

 

If I recall, the Lincolns had a blockoff plate that would choke one intake valve per cylinder when the engine wasn't at WOT. This was done in the name of fuel economy. They were notorious for sticking, usually in the closed position. That can easily be removed, especially since you won't be using the stock computer.

 

I am also not sure the Edelbrock intake will work with 4v heads. It won't work with the 96 heads. It requires the PI (99+) or the TFS heads (which are compatible with the 99-04 2v intake). You may want to give Edelbrock a call on that.

 

About the only real nice thing about the Lincoln engine is the block should be a TEKSID block, one of the strongest MOD blocks Ford made (good for about 900 or so HP). Here is a thread on converting a 4v to a 2v. I have only skimmed it, so I can't really comment too much. Lots of parts to change out. Unless you are planning to make over 500hp, I don't think the cost is worth the effort.

 

Chuck

[Stock 87 12]

I've been researching 2v or 4v. Seems the Lincoln Mark 8 runs one of the more exotic engines that Ford built. All aluminum,dual overhead cam, four valves per cylinder, hemispherical combustion chambers, those things alone make it worth the trouble of jamming one in my car. I think it also opens up my choices of transmissions too. I should be able to source a six speed to back it up...??? Lots more reading to do.

 

The way I understand the valve your talking about. It's in there to gain low end torque. By closing off one valve/runner at low speed they maintain intake velocity to increase bottom end power. Makes sense...

 

I also can't say for sure how I'm going to feed the beast. Until I have the donor in my hands (mark 8) I'm not sure... I could decide to run the factory injection. I know running carbed is an option so my imagination can play with this one a bit. Fuel injection is Sooooo much nicer than a carb. My goal would be to eventually run 400hp, stock LSC had 290. If I can't tune the factory injection to support higher than factory power I'll be ditching it. I really need to do more research about the engine. I am going to be running a aluminum 4v though:biggrin:

[Angel 24]

That mark8 engine isnt known for its power. Youd have to use aftermarket cams, long tube headers, and a cobra intake manifold (ported and converted to a short runner) in order to come close to 400hp at the crank. Even then, itll be tough to get. I wouldnt waste my time on a 2 valve. Mark8's used a return style fuel system which makes things a little easier to swap into a classic.

[MustangChuck 16]

I think it also opens up my choices of transmissions too. I should be able to source a six speed to back it up...??? Lots more reading to do.

 

Your choices in transmissions will be the same for all MOD engines. If you stick with the stock computer, your choice becomes limited to the automatic that came in the Lincoln. Ditching the factory electornics will allow for any 5 or 6 speed transmission that would normally bolt to a 4.6/5.0/5.4/5.8L modular engine. As I understand, they all have the same bolt pattern.

 

Chuck

[Stock 87 12]

Your choices in transmissions will be the same for all MOD engines. If you stick with the stock computer, your choice becomes limited to the automatic that came in the Lincoln. Ditching the factory electornics will allow for any 5 or 6 speed transmission that would normally bolt to a 4.6/5.0/5.4/5.8L modular engine. As I understand, they all have the same bolt pattern.

 

Chuck

 

I'm sure I could run a manual trans Mustang ECM to get around the auto trans issue. The availablity of a six speed dawned on me while I was looking into the Lincoln engine. Everyone knows a six speed in a vintage mustang would be sexy. I need to get the donors here so I can start digging into them.

[Stock 87 12]

While I wait for parts to show up I Started patching the inner wheel wells. My idea here is to remove the outer without taking the quarter off. I don't know if it will work but I'm going to try. I can't leave the rust between the quarter and the outer wheel housing, my OCD won't let this happen. Matter of fact, anyplace with a factory lap joint freaks me out. I need to get over it if I want to drive this thing. :lol:

 

I also have held off on sending it out for blasting. By time I'm done there won't be anything left that needs blasting. Plus I can avoid the chance of damage during transit. If something needs it that bad, I will roll her outside and spot blast it myself.

 

Can't stress enough how handy this rotisserie is/has been. Talk about effortless access to anyplace on the rust wagon. Makes undercoating removal kinda fun in a sick little way.

[Stock 87 12]

 

 

 

Never took any before pictures of the wheel well.

 

Does anyone remove the spare tire depression from the passenger side wheel well for tire clearance? I had marks on mine from previous contact with the tire and that was with stock width rubber. Also the factory bump stop brackets look to be in the way of running bigger than stock tires. Is anyone cutting these off?

[jnet4jt 10]

before i replaced my rear frame rails i just trimmed off the excess metal that stuck out and hit the tire. I have also heard of folks relocating these to the inner side… not sure how well it works.

[RPM 1,190]

 

 

Does anyone remove the spare tire depression from the passenger side wheel well for tire clearance? I had marks on mine from previous contact with the tire and that was with stock width rubber. Also the factory bump stop brackets look to be in the way of running bigger than stock tires. Is anyone cutting these off?

 

Yes to both answers for me. The spare depression can be easily reversed with a bfh. I trimmed the axle bumper bracket flush with the frame rail.

 

Bob

[mustangstofear 608]

What size of tires are you running in the back ?

[Stock 87 12]

Not sure on tires yet. 285's on all four corners?? Maybe? I need to get the suspension mocked up before I make any final decisions. Figured I'd at least clearance for big rubber. If I remove the stock bump stop mounts I can always add bumps later. Not even sure if I need them with the three link??

[Stock 87 12]

Outside for some minor clean up on the underside and the inside roof support structures.

[Stock 87 12]

[Stock 87 12]

Time to put her away for the night.

 

Found a lot more issues that weren't visible before. Transition pan looks like lace with all of the holes in it. Quarters are done for, I was going to try saving them but the wheel wells are rusted thru. Panel under the rear window is rusted thru at the ends.

 

Looking like the only things that will be original on the rear of this car will be the frame rails.:sad:

[Stock 87 12]

 

 

No ides why they are upside down

 

 

[Stock 87 12]

 

Been busy replacing lots of steel.

Still collecting parts and working a few hours a night after the new baby goes to bed.

 

Yes part of the hold up is I have a 9 month old to play with when I get in from work. 😠She sure is a hell of a lot of fun.

[Stock 87 12]

Inner structure has been treated to some self etching primer.

Quarter is prepped and ready to start welding.