Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Hi guys. As we are about to finish my engine (351W, 30 over, roller cam and lifters, stock heads, 4V aluminum intake) we are discussing whether the valve rockers should be roller as well or not. The old school guy who is putting it back together says it's not necessary to spend the extra $ on roller rockers. Others say I should go all the way. What is your thinking? I understand what a roller cam brings, but I must confess it is less clear for the rockers. New cam is "mild" and lifts .577/.581 if I remember well. Push rods are new and more resistant than stock. Thanks in advance for your help! G Edited April 25, 2014 by Guillaume69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 257 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 What is the purpose of going with a roller cam, and then putting a stamped non roller rocker arm in the valve train? It kinda defeats the purpose. It is more $$$$ to go full roller, and could be upgraded easily in the future. I wouldn't skimp at this point in the build as the friction from a non roller rocker arm would not help, only hurt. Full roller for my vote. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 What is the purpose of going with a roller cam, and then putting a stamped non roller rocker arm in the valve train? It kinda defeats the purpose. It is more $$$$ to go full roller, and could be upgraded easily in the future. I wouldn't skimp at this point in the build as the friction from a non roller rocker arm would not help, only hurt. Full roller for my vote. Ditto. I run a full roller setup on my engine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 There are good reasons to go with a roller cam no matter whether the valvetrain is roller or not. Ford did this on production engines for a long time and it worked just fine. I'd go with the non-roller rockers myself and after you drive it a while switch them out. david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 What is the purpose of going with a roller cam, and then putting a stamped non roller rocker arm in the valve train? It kinda defeats the purpose. It is more $$$$ to go full roller, and could be upgraded easily in the future. I wouldn't skimp at this point in the build as the friction from a non roller rocker arm would not help, only hurt. Full roller for my vote. There are more benefits to roller cams than just friction reduction. Heck, that's probably the least valuable attribute. The ability to run higher lift without the idle crippling duration being the major one. I run full rollers. I run Crane Gold, but they are kinda pricey. You can get a nice set of Scorpions for $250 from Summit. If you do get the Scorpions, got to a dealer like Summit. Many of the ebay ones are counterfeit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) yes i agree roller all the way .. i went with comp cams retro hyd roller cam, roller linked lifters, roller rockers.. rollin rollin rollin ...:punk: Edited April 25, 2014 by stangme428 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 158 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Stock rockers would be a bad idea with that much lift. They are just not made for it. If you want to save a buck you can use the crane roller lift rockers as they will not put the side load on the valve stem. If it was me , with that much lift I would want full roller aluminum or stainless rockers Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarkBuddha 107 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 I agree... roller all the way if you can afford it. If not, upgrade later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patriotgamez 14 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 Erson makes a nice roller rocker Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 Now that looks absolutely beautiful... So full roller it will be! Like always, thanks for your answers. G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MOCK 302 10 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 My new one has an all roller top end . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LindenBruce 27 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 Just got Jeg's new catalog yesterday. Their brand SS roller rockers are on sale right now for $206.95 a set. Choice of 3/8" or 7/16" stud. How can you go wrong with that? B. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ksquared 13 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 Here is what I've found: Summit - Comp 1442-16 steel roller tips for $152.97 RPM - YBB-302760 stainless full rollers for $166.00 Summit - Scorpion SCP1018BL aluminum full rollers for $245.97 Summit - Harland Sharp S4003-7 aluminum full rollers for $249.97 Don't know how good/bad the above are. The RPMs look like a good deal but I have not heard anything about them or their product. Right now I'm building a 428 FE with Harland Sharps. My 351W for my Bronco is next so if anyone has thoughts... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ksquared 13 Report post Posted April 26, 2014 Dang! I just check the non-roller rockers at Summit. They have Comp 1231-16 for $139.97. That makes it $13 more for roller tips. Easy choice for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 309 Report post Posted April 27, 2014 I went with a roller cam conversion and opted for the roller rockers as well. Maybe not absolutely necessary but a relatively cheap upgrade and piece of mind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
'70MACH1 10 Report post Posted April 28, 2014 I just got done putting new rollers on my 351c. I had defective aluminum rockers and bad guide plates. I upgraded to comp's best steel rollers. Unfortunately There was only one guide plate available for the Cleveland, so I hogged it out at the base with a peanut grinder. The thing sounds great, still waiting to drive it. Go all the way or not at all! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted April 28, 2014 (edited) So this is the moment of truth... I am about to order my rocker arms, based on previous comments. Let me ask this, though: - Any big difference between stainless and aluminium (aside from weight I guess?) - On my 351W stock heads, I have studs. When checking stud size (3/8' vs. 7/16'), where should I measure? - Any advice regarding ratio (1.6 1.65 1.7 1.72)? Thanks for your patience with this! G Edited April 28, 2014 by Guillaume69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Stay with stock 1.6 ratio. You're asking for problems running a higher ratio rocker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 Yep, thanks! I figured the camshaft was lifting enough. So I finally ordered this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCC-SCP1017BL We'll see how that goes... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69boss408 11 Report post Posted April 29, 2014 you wont be upset full roller is smoother and less friction equalling longer running engine with less wear and get full use of the valvetrain Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
