Hoist lifting points

[Flanders 46]

I installed my MaxJax last weekend :)

 

 

I have a question about jacking points now.

 

In the picture above, the arms of the jack are fully extended to each the front and rear sub-frames. This definitely works, however I was wondering about the "factory" jacking points on the lower rocker panels / pinch welds.

 

I was going to cut some notches in some hockey pucks, and use them where the jack is here: (not my picture)

 

Is this a safe and acceptable way of doing it?

 

When your cars are up on a lift, where do you set the lift pads?

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Using a lift I would only use the frame rails as lifting points.

[Flanders 46]

Using a lift I would only use the frame rails as lifting points.

 

I tend to agree. I spaced my jack posts at *just* the right distance. With the arms fully extended, I can reach the frame rails however I need to make sure the car is perfectly centered between the posts.

 

I was hoping it was just as safe/secure to use the pinchwelds (factory locations) if I needed too.

[jholmes217 65]

I installed my MaxJax last weekend :)

 

 

I have a question about jacking points now.

 

In the picture above, the arms of the jack are fully extended to each the front and rear sub-frames. This definitely works, however I was wondering about the "factory" jacking points on the lower rocker panels / pinch welds.

 

I was going to cut some notches in some hockey pucks, and use them where the jack is here: (not my picture)

 

Is this a safe and acceptable way of doing it?

 

When your cars are up on a lift, where do you set the lift pads?

 

I've been thinking about a lift in my garage also. How much did that cost you total?

[Mike65 475]

I would put the lift arms on the rear frame where the rear spring front bolt is & the front under the front frame floor extensions.

[Midlife 814]

I have a Bendix 4 2 post asymmetric lift and used it for restoring my car. I needed to replace the frame rails, so I took a 2x4, cut a slot in it to match the pinch welds and used that to support the car. Worked great and I still have the 2x4's just in case. Edited April 22, 2014 by Midlife

[Rip Rock 13]

love the 2 post! a bit off topic. how tall is the garage roof?

 

midlife- good idea on the 2x4.

[Flanders 46]

Mike65 -- that's roughly where the pads are now. The outside-edge of the MaxJax install is 125" apart, and with the arms fully extended, the pads *just* reach the rear frame rails (very close to where they're welded to the floors) and the front rails.

 

I'm tempted to put another set of anchors in for the jack, about 8" closer together so that I have a bit more range/room to move the arms of the lift. For now, this will work fine though :)

 

jholmes -- $2000 (Cdn), from costco.ca. It was $200 off last fall. This included shipping to my door. Add another $35 for rental of the SDS rotary hammer drill (home depot rental included 2 brand new concrete bits, required for install)

 

Midlife -- that's exactly what I was thinking, except using a hockey puck since I have lots of those kicking around. They're very dense rubber and won't crack.

 

Rip Rock -- the garage roof is 9' tall. The MaxJax can lift the car up 4' (maximum) so this is perfect. I can put my daily driver on it and lift it 4' with a few inches to spare from the ceiling.

[Midlife 814]

The advantage of the 2x4 over two pucks is the weight/load is distributed across the entire pinch weld, ensuring the pinch weld won't bend/collapse (possible with a point load and rusted metal). The only disadvantage is that it was time-consuming to place the 2x4 in place while raising the hoist arms, ensuring it was in alignment with the pinch weld.

[DarkBuddha 107]

We've always used the subframe at the front and pinch weld at the rear with a wood block between the lift pad and the pinch weld. It raises the car dead level. I do want to use something else for to replace the wood block that has more structural integrity.