trunk floors

[Raven R code 281]

Does anyone have experience with repo trunk floors? I'm curious about brand and fitment issues if any. Are the repo's good quality? I had battery acid leak on the right side floor and now I have pin holes. Also noticed a small hole at the bumper bracket....dang!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Trunk-Floor-Panels-TF20-64L-R-Pair-EDP-Coated-Steel-1964-1970-Ford-Mustang-/251414902408?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item3a897ef688&vxp=mtr

[silverfox999 10]

Does anyone have experience with repo trunk floors? I'm curious about brand and fitment issues if any. Are the repo's good quality? I had battery acid leak on the right side floor and now I have pin holes. Also noticed a small hole at the bumper bracket....dang!

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Trunk-Floor-Panels-TF20-64L-R-Pair-EDP-Coated-Steel-1964-1970-Ford-Mustang-/251414902408?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1969%7CModel%3AMustang&hash=item3a897ef688&vxp=mtr

 

I bought and installed a repro one from NPD, no fitment issues

Chris

[Alan_Mac 48]

My 70 has a dynacorn trunk floor. My friend did the metal work on my 70. As I remember, he had to fab some corner pieces in front of the wheel wells and re-use the rear axle bumper bracket so it looked original. Other than that it fit perfect. I also replaced my inner / outer wheel wells quarter panels.

[Trinitys 134]

That's expensive! mustangsunlimited has them for 28.95 each.

https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/SubCat.asp?CatKey=EMUSTANG&SubCategory=Floor%2FTrunk%2FSeat+Pans&SubSubCategory=Trunk+Floors+%26+Braces&category=Body&KeyWords=EMC200

 

 

I'm going to be doing this in the future. i have a couple holes in the driver side on my car. .....along with the tail light panel. Let us know how they look.

[Raven R code 281]

ok...good feedback! The next question.......does anyone know if just the right side trunk floor (with drop off) can be replaced without removing anything but the gas tank? Or is this a big hassle?

[det0326 179]

ok...good feedback! The next question.......does anyone know if just the right side trunk floor (with drop off) can be replaced without removing anything but the gas tank? Or is this a big hassle?

 

I would say a hassle it is spot welded to the transition pan the inner wheel housing in a few places and its also tucked under the shock bracket cap,

and spot welded to the frame rail. The drop off is also welded to the rear part of 1/4 panel.

[miketyler 15]

I bought the cheap unit in the CJP catalog. It was for the LH trunk floor. Metal was very soft and bendable. I went ahead and used it and now that's it's in is hard to tell any difference. Comparing it to the front repo floor pans I bought, the metal for those from a different vendor was definitely better quality. You get what you pay for most of the time with repos - varying degrees of suckdom.

Edited March 17, 2014 by miketyler

[Rsanter 152]

ok...good feedback! The next question.......does anyone know if just the right side trunk floor (with drop off) can be replaced without removing anything but the gas tank? Or is this a big hassle?

 

It's a big hassle but can be done

Take your time and you will get it

 

If it was me I would look at repairing the original if it's not that bad

 

Bob

[Mike65 475]

I replaced the l/s trunk floor in my 69 Coupe, I do not remember the manufacturer. I got it from CJ'S a couple years ago, & it fit pretty good to my factory inner wheel house.

[Trinitys 134]

miketyler...great point there. I can not vouch for the difference in quality.

[latoracing 256]

I installed Dynacorn one piece trunk parts. Fit was good, and the material gauge was the same as the factory parts. These would be fun to install if the inner wheel house was still in the car, but could be done.

 

[buening 63]

I recall reading how the lower 1" lip needs trimmed on the drop offs. This was awhile ago, is this still the case or are they a direct fit now?

[det0326 179]

I recall reading how the lower 1" lip needs trimmed on the drop offs. This was awhile ago, is this still the case or are they a direct fit now?

 

I installed mine last summer and had to trim.

[Mike65 475]

I'm going to be doing this in the future. i have a couple holes in the driver side on my car. .....along with the tail light panel. Let us know how they look.

 

Trinitys,

When you get around to doing the trunk floor & tail light panel check out my build log, I have pics in it from when I did the l/s trunk floor & tail light panel on my 69 Coupe.

Mike.

[Raven R code 281]

So, with the people that have replaced trunk floors(one piece with drop off), does anyone think this can be done without taking anything else apart (aside form gas tank removal)? A patch would not be acceptable as those little raised "squiggles" were affected by the battery acid.

Thanks again

 

PS: forgot to mention that I am replacing the deck filler panel, which means a trunk support would be able to come out.

Edited March 18, 2014 by Raven R code

[latoracing 256]

So, with the people that have replaced trunk floors(one piece with drop off), does anyone think this can be done without taking anything else apart (aside form gas tank removal)? A patch would not be acceptable as those little raised "squiggles" were affected by the battery acid.

Thanks again

 

PS: forgot to mention that I am replacing the deck filler panel, which means a trunk support would be able to come out.

 

The rear of your car sounds as crunchy as mine was. The bumper mounts have to come out, unless you cut around them. If you are removing the trunk support (trap door area if I understand correctly) the only thing in the way would be the inner wheel house area. There are a few brackets that need to be removed at the trap door area for a fold down seat, but if you are going that far, it is obvious.

[det0326 179]

So, with the people that have replaced trunk floors(one piece with drop off), does anyone think this can be done without taking anything else apart (aside form gas tank removal)? A patch would not be acceptable as those little raised "squiggles" were affected by the battery acid.

Thanks again

 

PS: forgot to mention that I am replacing the deck filler panel, which means a trunk support would be able to come out.

 

As I mentioned in my earlier post there is a lot of spotwelds that has to be removed on different panels and brackets that is connected to the trunk pan and drop off but it can be replaced by just removing the gas tank. Cutting the old pan into 2 or 3 different pieces would make it easier to remove but you can get the new one back in even without removing the trunk divider. If you are going to remove it any way then that would make it easier still. I replaced most all sheet metal on the back of my car but I did remove the drivers side trunk pan and drop off with all the other sheet metal in place because I had to replace the rear part of the frame rail. In doing it this way I had a reference as to where to relocate the end part of the frame rail. Then when I got all that back in place I had a reference to take measurements for the rest of the sheet metal. The end of the trunk pan most forward is tucked under the shock bracket top cap and it will have to be completely removed or about 4 inches on the end cut and removed on which ever side you are removing, I think that this is only if you have staggered shocks as I do. Standard shock mounts you may not have this cap I'm not sure tho.

Dave

Edited March 18, 2014 by det0326

[Mike65 475]

When I did the l/s trunk floor on my Coupe I had the tail light panel & the gas tank rear support removed also which were being replaced at the same time along with the both bumper brackets that are welded to the trunk floor, so it made replacement of the trunk floor easier. You can see in my attached pic the new metal. Before I welded any of it together I had screwed & clamped it together first with the gas tank in place to make sure it was all square.

 

[silverfox999 10]

When I did the l/s trunk floor on my Coupe I had the tail light panel & the gas tank rear support removed also which were being replaced at the same time along with the both bumper brackets that are welded to the trunk floor, so it made replacement of the trunk floor easier. You can see in my attached pic the new metal. Before I welded any of it together I had screwed & clamped it together first with the gas tank in place to make sure it was all square.

 

 

 

+1 on this, I took out the rear tail light panel and lined up with the tank in.

Chris

 

P.S. I do recall having the trim the bottom from the drop off pieces

[Raven R code 281]

Thanks everyone for your input! Thanks for for posting the pictures too. The pictures help out a lot. I'm getting more comfortable about replacing this part. I also have a rotobroach cutter coming to start this off. The part that sucks is the drivers quarter panel has to come off and the passenger side trunk floor needs to come out.....why couldn't this all happen to one side only ;)

[Mike65 475]

The part that sucks is the drivers quarter panel has to come off and the passenger side trunk floor needs to come out.....why couldn't this all happen to one side only ;)

 

Because then it would make it easier. :yes:

[70fastbak 16]

I say go for it.

You can take a plasma cutter and cut alot of it out, or a cut off wheel.

Doing it this way can sometimes help in getting a drill or grinder in there to get those spot welds cut/ground out when in limited space.

I just installed dynacorn trunk floors on my car and the fit was perfect.

These are the new design items (says right on the sticker) not sure what was changed but i had no fitment issues at all.

 

[Raven R code 281]

Ok.....so I found the seam on the trunk drop off where the old skin was stitched in has a lot of welding blow out. So I'm going to replace just the drop off piece. I've seen some very bad quality stampings that don't even look correct. Can anyone suggest a good drop off with the 3 indents defined well (during stamping) and correct holes?

[Raven R code 281]

Got 2 NOS trunk floor panels. Going to dig into it this week. First one to get worked on is the passenger side. Hopefully I can slip the new one in without too much disassembly.

 

The driver side: The quarter panel is off and hopefully this will make it a little easier.

 

Can anyone suggest a tool that can get into tight spots where a spot weld cutter won't fit? I have a small ball tip attachment for my dremel, but that is very slow going.

 

Thanks,

Dave

[jagbucket 10]

go to a welding supply and get the air files for a peanut grinder spendy but will do the job $20 around, but these work for cleaning up welds. wear protective gear and vacuum the area. shavings are as hard as fiberglass to get out of your skin . dont waste your money on cheap ones they will not work or last. To break one or two spot welds that you cannot cut just attack them with a air chisel from different angles to avoid tearing

Edited October 15, 2014 by jagbucket