Clearances with a 429/460 in a Mach1

[jgkurz 52]

Hi All,

I'm working on a 69 Mach 1 with a 70 385 series 429 engine. It's a tight fit but it runs and drives fine.

 

Those of you with a 385 series engines in your car do you have these same issues?

 

1) The engine has cast iron exhaust manifolds but it still looks impossible to change the plugs without pulling the engine up. How do you change plugs?

 

2) The air cleaner is the typical 14" round style but only 1" tall so very small. I don't think there is a mm to spare under the hood with the Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. What air cleaner do you use?

 

Thank you!

 

-John

[det0326 179]

Hi All,

I'm working on a 69 Mach 1 with a 70 385 series 429 engine. It's a tight fit but it runs and drives fine.

 

Those of you with a 385 series engines in your car do you have these same issues?

 

1) The engine has cast iron exhaust manifolds but it still looks impossible to change the plugs without pulling the engine up. How do you change plugs?

 

2) The air cleaner is the typical 14" round style but only 1" tall so very small. I don't think there is a mm to spare under the hood with the Edelbrock Performer intake and carb. What air cleaner do you use?

 

Thank you!

 

-John

 

Back in the day I think it was the norm to take the engine loose and raise it up to change the spark plugs on the 428 and 429's. My car came with the 428cj and some P/O (nut) heated the reinforced shock towers up with a torch beat them in and destroyed them. Ford may have had some sort of special tool to change the plugs I don't know but us back yard mechanics had to raise the engine and do it the hard way.

[TheRktmn 15]

I have found that removing the valve covers helps on my 460. I installed studs in the back holes to make it easier to take them on & off.

Also an assortment of sockets & extensions - the best is the socket with a 'nut' on the end and a box end wrench.

Really not that bad a job.

[jgkurz 52]

I have found that removing the valve covers helps on my 460. I installed studs in the back holes to make it easier to take them on & off.

Also an assortment of sockets & extensions - the best is the socket with a 'nut' on the end and a box end wrench.

Really not that bad a job.

 

Thanks for the reply. Are you referring to the removal of the valve covers or spark plugs?

[TheRktmn 15]

I remove the valve covers to change the plugs. Doing that makes the job much easier. I have the aluminum pentcover(?) covers and they are tall and close to the shock towers.

[fordguy69 24]

The best way to change your plugs is to notch your shock towers first! :biggrin:

 

With the stock shock towers, take off your valve covers and I found that using a plug socket with a hex on the outside helps too.

 

Your hood clearance issue depends on which mount set up you used. The Crites Gen 1 puts the engine up very high and a hood scoop is necessary with darn near any intake. The Crites Gen 2 and MPG puts the engine much lower and you can get by without a scoop with a Torker II and perhaps a Eddy Performer and RPM. Stealth and Victor, forget it, cut a hole.

 

It sounds to me like you have the higher setup. These big motors need a lot of air and with that short an air cleaner, I would bet you are leaving some performance on the table. I notice that when I closed the hood on mine with about 2" of clearance and the filter off, the idle would noticeably drop. Also when the air cleaner lid is too close to the carb vent tubes, it creates issues.

 

However, the torque that these big boys make, makes it all worthwhile! I am on my third 385 powered 69. I LOVE these motors.

[jgkurz 52]

Excellent info and very helpful. Thank you everyone.

 

-John