TKO 600 conversion in 69 fastback

[Rcodenewf 44]

Just checking in for feedback on this conversion. Car presently has a C4 in it but with 3.55's i'm turning @ 2800 at just over 60mph. Combine that with a set of flowmaster 40's and the drive can be quite aggravating.

With a .64 overdrive in the TKO i can get the rpm down to the 1700-1800 range which would be great.

 

I've received quotes from American powertrain and one other supplier.

 

American powertrain can supply me with the TKO 600, the modular T6061 crossmember, urethane mount, backup light harness etc.

Other than a hydraulic clutch setup they don't offer any mechanical linkage for this package.

 

I will shorten my own driveshaft; the trans comes with the short input shaft so i won't need a spacer plate and can bolt it directly to a factory bellhousing.I have a flywheel and will supply my own clutch.

 

The case will be "streamlined" by AP to fit the tunnel and the shifter will be located to utilize the factory position in the console.

 

Amerian powertrain does not, for some reason, supply a chrome Hurst shifter nor the correct round 69 one whereas Modern Driveline does.

 

I have Flotech long tubes on the car so i'm thinking that the z bar style linkage may have an interference problem.

 

Looking for feedback from anyone who has done this conversion.

 

Thanks...John

[j69302 11]

I went from a C4 to a tko600 in my coupe and used all of modern driveline parts and had no issues.

 

Bruce at modern driveline is very knowledgeable and can tell you which headers will and will not fit... I had flotech headers, I decided to throw them away when I did the swap because they were absolutely horrible quality. I went with FPA headers as they specifically mention they have clearance for cable clutch systems which is what I used. They are more expensive, but you do see where the money is spent in the quality and craftmanship so they are well worth the money. Came with new bolts, and a nice set of header gaskets.

 

My shifter lined up pretty much dead center in the hole and I didn't need to cut into the tunnel.

 

I did however use Ron Morris lowered motor mounts, and then shimmed the tail housing of the transmission up by about 3/8- 1/2 inch to tuck it up as much in the tunnel as possible without it hitting. I have no vibration issues throughout the drivetrain.

[69droptopgt 10]

What type of engine do you have in it? A tko is overkill if you have a non built engine and a t5 or t56 will be easier and cheaper. Also, if you wanted to stay auto (some people do) you could put in a AOD.

[Alan_Mac 48]

Hands down, I would get the Liberties Gear upgraded TKO in the perfect fit kit.

[69gmachine 15]

I did this without using anyone's kit. I modified the top cover of the trans to allow it to sit at the correct driveline angle, which resulted in a need for a spacer between the Darkhorse crossmember and the trans mount in order to lift it up to the correct height. I also used a hydraulic throwout bearing. As for the shifter, I cut the bottom off an orignal 4 speed handle and welded on a tab to mount it to the Pro 5.0 shifter. I also have an aluminum handle I'll be installing soon in place of the stock style handle as I ended up modifying it one too many times trying to adjust it fore and aft.

 

I don't really have anything to compare it to, but it shifts just fine to me, especially since I don't drag race. People who have a T56 claim it shifts much smoother than the TKO.

Edited February 14, 2014 by 69gmachine
spelling

[Rcodenewf 44]

J69302 Actually i'm pretty happy with the Flotech ceramic headers i have on the car. Been on there for about 6 years...no issues. Fit was great and they have maintained their ceramic finish.

 

As you used a cable clutch system, what bellhousing did you use?

 

Did you think the TKO was overkill??

 

Did you consider American Powertrain?

 

69droptopgt. Car is just a 350-375hp engine but i'm thinking down the road i'll go with a stroker 427 in it. Like buying a compressor i guess, better to spend the bucks now on a good one rather than have to revisit and upgrade again down the road. Thats the way i usually approach things. :)

 

Alan_Mac What does that kit do and from whom?

 

69gmachine What bellhousing did you use?

 

Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions. Just trying to figure out the logistics of this swap right now bearing in mind ease of installation and of course cost.

 

Thank you...John

[j69302 11]

J69302 Actually i'm pretty happy with the Flotech ceramic headers i have on the car. Been on there for about 6 years...no issues. Fit was great and they have maintained their ceramic finish.

 

As you used a cable clutch system, what bellhousing did you use?

 

Did you think the TKO was overkill??

 

Did you consider American Powertrain?

Thank you...John

 

The bellhousing came from modern driveline, and if I remember correctly, it is a standard off the shelf Ford made bellhousing. Do not have Ford's part number for it, Modern Drivelines Part number is MD-401-1401. However, you cant use this bellhousing as you said you bought the shortened shaft. I believe this housing is for the standard shaft.

 

The tko is NOT over kill. That statement could not not be more incorrect. When I bought my kit, a new TKO600 was only $200 more than a new T-5z. Absolute no brainer on spending the extra 200 dollars to get more than 300+hp rating of a stock T-5.

 

Even though I don't have a high horsepower engine, I wanted the extra HP rating. I build things to last forever. There is no way I can brake this transmission right now.

 

Also, for what I wanted out of gearing, the TKO was a much better candidate then a T-5.

 

And as mention earlier in this thread by someone else, a T-56 is NOT easier and is NOT cheaper. You WILL need to cut your tunnel to get a true correct drive line angle. I'm not saying you can't fit it in there and without doing that, and without problems, but it won't be ideal.

 

 

I would highly recommend Liberty Gears surface coating and shift improvement treatment. By design, the TKO's have a very notchy feeling in the shifter due to the type of bushings the factory used. If you are planning on power shifting, it is something to look into having done.

 

If you are just going to cruise with it, I wouldn't bother having it done.

Edited February 14, 2014 by j69302

[69droptopgt 10]

I picked up a used T5z so it was a bigger difference. And you can easily find a t56 also (at least here in Michigan). It is very hard to find a used TKO (more like impossible). And with any stock 1969 mustang besides maybe the 428, it is an overkill meaning it is not required. Just because it is overkill does not mean it is a nice thing. I am offering the original poster options to look at. I see he has a plan to put a 427 and in that case, the TKO will be a good candidate for him. A T56 will need tunnel modification but could be used also b/c it is stronger than the t5. The TKO needs a dropped mount. rcodenewf just read on all the swaps. You probably should avoid the T5 if you think you are gonna put a 427 in it. Also, as they noted, many of these swaps lead to problems with headers.

[69gmachine 15]

J69302

69gmachine What bellhousing did you use?

 

Thanks everyone for your feedback and suggestions. Just trying to figure out the logistics of this swap right now bearing in mind ease of installation and of course cost.

 

Thank you...John

 

I used the OEM Ford bellhousing that came stock in a '95 R code Mustang. They are almost impossible to find used but can still be bought new from Ford. I believe I ordered mine from Modern Driveline.

 

A long time ago I had a T-5 behind a 351W. It was just a used high mileage unit from an '86 Mustang, not the latest World Class T5, but it only lasted about 3 passes at the drag strip. There's a thread somewhere on here about what it took to install a T56. It's a lot more involved than a TKO. There is no way to get around having to modify the tunnel with a T56.

[Rcodenewf 44]

Thanks again guys, i appreciate all comments. :)

 

JOhn

[coz 108]

I have a TKO600 and the only thing I'd do over is get the final gear in .82 instead of .64 You'll find it's a bit of a dog in 5th unless you are moving out. And that's with 3.89 gears and a 28" tire. With 3.55 I'd really consider the .82 5th....

[fordguy69 24]

I have a TKO600 and the only thing I'd do over is get the final gear in .82 instead of .64 You'll find it's a bit of a dog in 5th unless you are moving out. And that's with 3.89 gears and a 28" tire. With 3.55 I'd really consider the .82 5th....

 

 

Totally agree with the above. I have the .64 with 3.50's and the spread between 4th and 5th is too big. If you are going to keep the 3.55's get the .82.

 

I am going back to 3.89's in mine.

[j69302 11]

I also wish I would have gone with the .82 Overdrive... I have 2.79 rear end with 26.6 inch tires. 60mph in 4th is 2100 rpms. 80mph in 5th is 1800 rpms. Since most people around here cruise the highways at 80, I thought that was going to be a nice ratio.. Boy was I wrong haha... Once its up to 80 it cruises really nice though but at 79 mph it wants to die hah.

 

When it comes time to rebuild my engine, I will send it to liberty and have them change 5th to a .82 and do their surface treatment and bushing upgrade.

 

Last thought, with a 427, a .64 overdrive may be quite nice with all the extra low end torque available.

Edited February 15, 2014 by j69302

[Rcodenewf 44]

I have an email into Bruce at Modern Driveline and i'll certainly run the .64 vs .82 by him. Makes sense to me so far.

 

Thanks again guys....John

[jwscarab 20]

I run the .64 and a 3:50 gear and love it. She just purrs down the highways!

[Rcodenewf 44]

I run the .64 and a 3:50 gear and love it. She just purrs down the highways

!

Thanks for the feedback jwscarab.

 

No doubt your 428 makes a ton more torque than my smallblock, but i might give it a try once i speak to Bruce at M.D. If anything i can install a lower gear in it if it too much of a drop in rpm.

 

Regards....John

[jwscarab 20]

Thanks for the feedback jwscarab.

 

No doubt your 428 makes a ton more torque than my smallblock, but i might give it a try once i speak to Bruce at M.D. If anything i can install a lower gear in it if it too much of a drop in rpm.

 

Regards....John

 

That may be a real good chioce. It would be a whole lot easier to change the rear end gears out than than to regret the overdrive choice. You could dial it on with the rear gears? Would make 1st thru 4th a lot more fun too :thumbup1:

[Alan_Mac 48]

The bellhousing came from modern driveline, and if I remember correctly, it is a standard off the shelf Ford made bellhousing. Do not have Ford's part number for it, Modern Drivelines Part number is MD-401-1401. However, you cant use this bellhousing as you said you bought the shortened shaft. I believe this housing is for the standard shaft.

 

The tko is NOT over kill. That statement could not not be more incorrect. When I bought my kit, a new TKO600 was only $200 more than a new T-5z. Absolute no brainer on spending the extra 200 dollars to get more than 300+hp rating of a stock T-5.

 

Even though I don't have a high horsepower engine, I wanted the extra HP rating. I build things to last forever. There is no way I can brake this transmission right now.

 

Also, for what I wanted out of gearing, the TKO was a much better candidate then a T-5.

 

And as mention earlier in this thread by someone else, a T-56 is NOT easier and is NOT cheaper. You WILL need to cut your tunnel to get a true correct drive line angle. I'm not saying you can't fit it in there and without doing that, and without problems, but it won't be ideal.

 

 

I would highly recommend Liberty Gears surface coating and shift improvement treatment. By design, the TKO's have a very notchy feeling in the shifter due to the type of bushings the factory used. If you are planning on power shifting, it is something to look into having done.

 

If you are just going to cruise with it, I wouldn't bother having it done.

 

 

I highly recommend the Liberty's Gear upgrade. Shifting is so much better. Nothing worse than spending all the time and money to find out your TKO wouldn't shift into the next gear above 5200 rpm. That's what happened to me and the next winter my TKO500 was sent to Liberty's Gear.

[maxum96 32]

I highly recommend the Liberty's Gear upgrade. Shifting is so much better. Nothing worse than spending all the time and money to find out your TKO wouldn't shift into the next gear above 5200 rpm. That's what happened to me and the next winter my TKO500 was sent to Liberty's Gear.

 

 

I have a bone stock TKO (predecessor to the 500 and 600) and I shift at 7,500 without issue.

[j69302 11]

I have a bone stock TKO (predecessor to the 500 and 600) and I shift at 7,500 without issue.

 

 

Yeah the older ones had better bushings or synchros, whatever it is that's affect that.

 

They changed the 500/600s when they came out with them. The instructions specifically state do not shift higher than 6000rpms. I have no problem at all with hard shifting at 5000 though.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

They changed the 500/600s when they came out with them. The instructions specifically state do not shift higher than 6000rpms. I have no problem at all with hard shifting at 5000 though.

 

The instructions on my TKO indicated no higher than 6500 RPMs.

[j69302 11]

That sounds more like it. Been a while :)

[Alan_Mac 48]

As I remember Liberty's Gear said their upgraded TKO can be shifted at ~6400 rpm and above that face-plating would be needed. My TKO can be shifted at 6400 rpm. There are some lucky TKO owners that haven't had the lock out problem. But its a bummer when you find out after the install and need to remove it and ship it. Just saying....

[Rcodenewf 44]

Gotcha...thank you.

 

 

John

[Rcodenewf 44]

Well ..to resurrect this post I certainly enjoy my Tremec...turns over 1750 at 60mph and isn't a dog in 5th. However...i'm chasing down a vibration that I have when the car is under load in a 1-2 shift and 2-3 shift. Kind of a tremble up through the car on acceleration. At cruise speed it isnt' as noticeable.

I jacked up the car and loaded the suspension. I have the rear of the trans shimmed up as high as it can go without hitting the floor and it sits at 6 degrees down at the tail.

The driveshaft reads 1.7 degrees down and the pinion is 2 degrees up. I know that's a problem for sure so i'm thinking i'll put in 4 degree shims to get the diff up in the same horizontal plane as the trans output shaft. Sound right?

Thanks guys...John