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stangme428

Coyote build? Replace 408 Clevor

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ok --- i know im very close to driving my 69 coupe build whenever i want ... but im weighing my options on installing the 2011 Coyote engine i picked up and selling the 408 Clevor and TCP manual R&P i have installed now.

 

i have priced out the AJE racing k-member setup with and without power steering, with SN95 spindles, along with the shock tower notch kit from gateway classic mustang.

 

the logic behind my selling the 408 clevor... 520hp, 11.1 comp ratio = race gas... and i want to drive it very often.. maybe im crazy.....

 

thoughts....???

 

408 Clevor

over 500hp/500tq @ 5400rpm

K&N filter 14" X-Stream filter

Mighty Demon 750 annular carb

CSR throttle bracket

Bush Performance Track Boss intake

Shelby 351C aluminum valve covers (ANSEN)

AFD 2v aluminum cleveland heads 62cc after surfacing

@ 11.1 comp ratio

comp-cams 1.7 exhaust roller rockers

comp-cams 1.6 intake roller rockers

comp-cams molly push rods

comp-cams guide plates

comp-cams linked roller lifters

comp-cams Magnum 304HR hydraulic roller retrofit cam

valley girdle pro valley support kit

SRP forged pistons

Scat H beam 6.25" rods

Scat 9000 series forged stroker crank

Canton main girdle

Melling high volume oil pump

ARP oil pump shaft

Canton 680S oil pan 9qt baffled

summit hi-torque starter

billet steel flywheel neutral balance

superior kevlar/kevlar 10.5" clutch

ARP head studs

ARP engine fastener kit

flow-kooler water pump (passenger side exit)

CVF Racing billet pulleys (crank, water pump, PS)

CVF racing billet alternator bracket, PS bracket

Mallory Ignition (TBD Max Fire or equivalent)

TCI rattler dampner

Sanderson ceramic coated shorty headers

C9 351W date code block

internal ballanced

 

Engine Dyno sheet and Chassis Dyno sheet available

H&M Machine Shop Jacksonville Florida - cleaned, balanced, assembled

Horsepower by Hedrick Jacksonville Florida - setup heads, welded water bungs

Edited by stangme428

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If it was mine to do with as I chose, I'd knock a point of compression out of the engine, retune it for pump premium and drive the sh*t out of it. :scooter:

 

yep --- thats the alternative.... pull motor, replace 6.25" rods (dont ask) with new 6.2" rods, new pistons, balance it, deck block... get a 9.0 - 9.5 comp ratio... and drive the crap out of it... about 1500 - 2000.00 for new forged rods, new forged pistons, misc gaskets, balance and assembly

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I think if you did the Rod and Custom you would be money ahead. Dynacorn make the notched shock towers.

 

actually i compared the gateway performance suspension setup vs the AJE k-member setup... so far... i like the AJE setup better.. but im still reading and doing research ...

Edited by stangme428

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where the hell did you pickup a coyote motor? lol if only i had that luck. I would most definitely do a coyote swap.

 

yep -- a buddy installed a 5.0 low compression aluminator crate motor in his 2011 GT along with a Hellion twin turbo kit... so i picked up his original 5.0... right place at the right time.... btw his setup is simply amazing on 10psi... once he learns to drive with that much hp and has better tires on the back with more grip... he will turn up the boost... craziness... i shot a video riding with him.. but i would have to insert so many beeps in the audio to cover up my comments..... wouldnt be any fun to watch... lol

Edited by stangme428

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keep the clevor and go efi, i running pump gas with 10.5 cr. 347 dart block ,edlbrock performer rpm clevor heads and intake with custom ground roller camshaft . the engine was build by ford strokers (woody)dyno 401 rwhp . i drive the car all the time , efi make a big difference in driveabilty.

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I'd use the push rod motor, and chip away at the thousands of dollars saved by not extra enlarging the engine bay, on the extra gas you'll use. If you want to save gas money, put in a straight six :)

 

Bob

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When I was based with this same decision, I based mine on how much power I want to make, with efi, and fuel economy, since I all ready had the fast set up. I chose to go with the mod motor over the Cleveland. My gaol is 700rwhp with 18 mpg, on 91pump. The push rod sound will be very missed!!

The 408 you have sounds like a beast and you have a lot of money into it all ready. Tough call.

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My opinion, go with the Coyote. One of the main reasons I didn't use my stang more often was because of the lousy mpg, manual steering, and the gas smell that always comes with a carb. With a efi Coyote, you'll have everything you could ask for, and the car will still go like stink! You'll use it so much more when it's livable everyday.

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My opinion, go with the Coyote. One of the main reasons I didn't use my stang more often was because of the lousy mpg, manual steering, and the gas smell that always comes with a carb. With a efi Coyote, you'll have everything you could ask for, and the car will still go like stink! You'll use it so much more when it's livable everyday.

 

Now there's a smart man :thumbup1:

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thanks for all the insight .... im still doing research on the AJE setup... so any insight on a similar solution would be great... the MTF coyote install looks amazing btw... what i am thinking of--

 

  • selling the 408 clevor (@6k loss)
  • selling the TCP manual rack (300 loss)
  • selling 96 GT convertible local -- blown head gasket
  • selling 90 4cyl LX local -- blown motor
  • funding the mods needed for the coyote via the selling of above
  • still doing research on Mustang II VS k member (AJE)
  • my current brake setup (vintage venom GT500 kit) must fit on solution

 

OR

 

  • selling 96 GT convertible local -- blown head gasket
  • selling 90 4cyl LX local -- blown motor
  • install coyote in the 89 GT convertible
  • funding the mods needed for the coyote via the selling of above plus $$$
  • restore 89 GT convertible 5spd (runs and drives.. but needs love)
  • rebuilding the 408 clevor as mentioned to lower comp ratio
  • install coyote in the 89 GT convertible
  • drive the heck out of both!!

 

at the moment... im leaning towards the second list... less $$$ out of pocket (maybe) and l gain a back up mustang.. but adapting a hellion twin turbo kit to the coyote in the 69.... now that would be different...lol...

MTF feel free to PM me any ideas on AJE VS Mustang II

---- edit -- talk about on the fence... after posting.. i wanted to change the last and say i was leaning towards the first list....

Edited by stangme428

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I have not read the complete history but you could also convert your existing engine to EFI rather than taking the losses you have outlined & then spend the $ to convert to the the modular.

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do you really need race fuel when driving on the street with an 11:1 aluminum head motor?

 

i would think if you were to take it to the track, then maybe you would add a little bit of higher octane, but on the street, it's really hard to spend any time at WOT without breaking the law.

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do you really need race fuel when driving on the street with an 11:1 aluminum head motor?

 

i would think if you were to take it to the track, then maybe you would add a little bit of higher octane, but on the street, it's really hard to spend any time at WOT without breaking the law.

 

when you shut the motor of on 93 octane its like a diesel ... when i run race gas... runs great and no diesel at shut off... it will run on 93 octane... its not good to diesel... unless your a diesel...:lol:

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what's your timing at idle? have you tried backing that off a couple degrees?

 

the higher the octane, the slower the burn. when you switch to lower octane, then it will put more heat in the chamber since it's igniting faster (assuming the timing wasn't adjusted.)

 

if you are going to change fuel you should change consider adjusting your timing.

 

that's my take.

Edited by BuckeyeDemon

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what's your timing at idle? have you tried backing that off a couple degrees?

 

the higher the octane, the slower the burn. when you switch to lower octane, then it will put more heat in the chamber since it's igniting faster (assuming the timing wasn't adjusted.)

 

if you are going to change fuel you should change consider adjusting your timing.

 

that's my take.

 

15 deg then all in @1500 with 17 deg was the last program loaded in the Mallory Max Fire

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Ohh... Twin Turbo Coyote in a '69. Even with a smaller turbo setup, that would be killer! Looks, drivability, fuel mileage (if you could stay out of it LOL). Sounds like fun, expensive, but doable.

 

I'm shure you might be able to sell your 408 (hint hint), Cleavors rock!

 

Is your '90 a coupe or hatch?

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Ohh... Twin Turbo Coyote in a '69. Even with a smaller turbo setup, that would be killer! Looks, drivability, fuel mileage (if you could stay out of it LOL). Sounds like fun, expensive, but doable.

 

I'm shure you might be able to sell your 408 (hint hint), Cleavors rock!

 

Is your '90 a coupe or hatch?

 

the 90 is a hatch....

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ok ...

 

so i am leaning towards leaving the 408 in the 69, letting a few variables play out.

  • ignition - waiting to see what Mallory offers on the Max Fire problems
  • drive the current 408 setup until funds allow
  • pull 408 and work with Mark Hedrick on new rods, pistons, lower comp ratio
  • assemble a megasquirt 3 EFI/Ignition setup for the 69

 

what im really fighting is being impatient and wanting to enjoy the car.... wanting the Coyote installed in "something" because i know its potential..

 

thanks for all the input... but i think its best to go with the 408 in the 69 for now... we can install the Coyote in the 89 GT convertible... or another project down the road.

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