hawkdriver 14 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Hey Guys, Need a bit of help, i was told PO used permatex the right stuff for trans pan, i have to change oil and filter, but cannot get the damn thing off. I tried cutting through the gasket to no avail, tried gasket remover even though i was told it wouldn't work, i don't have the ability to remove the trans to work on on it so I'm under car, and cannot for the life of me get the pan removed without damaging pan or trans. Any suggestion would help, Thanks. FMX if it matters Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Try to see if you can use a single edge razor between the two or possibly a gasket scaper. Then work around the whole thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawkdriver 14 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks, Yea i been doing that just not a whole lot of luck, i was thinking more towards a chemical removal. Thanks ill keep at it though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Maybe a thin guitar or piano string. If blue permatex, chemicals are going to have a hard time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 I'm sure you know but if not you will mive the wire back and forth to "cut" it out. Use some wood dowels on each side Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawkdriver 14 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks for the input, No its black "the right stuff" and funny you mentioned that, i tried it and it didn't well, maybe ill try slightly thinner. I too though that was the ticket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Last thought is 3 putty knifes and hammer but this may screw up pan if you are not careful. Hammer thru with the first knife then put the next knife a few inches away and place knock the third thru a few inches away from that. Always keep first knife in its place and work the second and 3rd knife around. Kinda hard to write a description on how to do this but I think you will get the drift. Get good knifes that have strong handles that can be hammered (I have some with metal handles) without breaking. If those don't work you may need to use dynamite lol. Cannot think of anything else right now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Last thought is 3 putty knifes and hammer but this may screw up pan if you are not careful. Hammer thru with the first knife then put the next knife a few inches away and place knock the third thru a few inches away from that. Always keep first knife in its place and work the second and 3rd knife around. Kinda hard to write a description on how to do this but I think you will get the drift. Get good knifes that have strong handles that can be hammered (I have some with metal handles) without breaking. If those don't work you may need to use dynamite lol. Cannot think of anything else right now. That is what I was going to suggest use a putty knife. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 If he used the right stuff, how long ago did he apply it? How long has the right stuff been on the market? Guess I'm asking does the tranny really need serviced? Just saying. Yes it is a bear to remove. Think I might use a 4" razor type scraper blade, held on one end with vise grips, and tap the other with a hammer. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 4" razor scraper blade in vice grips gets my suggestion. Tap it in with a hammer, and then use muscle or tap it with a hammer around the perimeter to cut through the gasket/sealer. You can get a scraper blade from Lowes or Menards pretty cheap, and they are thicker than your typical razor blades. Similar to a putty knife thickness, but with a razor edge to help cut through that crap. I've used it before on separating glass and plexiglass bonded around the perimeter with clear caulk. Using the putty knife makes it too easy to try prying the pan off, which only bends the flanges and makes sealing it back up a nightmare. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 120 Report post Posted January 29, 2014 Boy that sucks, can't offer any other tip or trick ... on a positive note, I'm guessing PO's sealing technique was at least leak free, unlike any sheet metal A/T pan I've ever re-sealed !! Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 I would have thought a thin bladed putty knife carefully tapped in (no prying) to cut the sealer loose. Cant believe they sealed both sides of the gasket but maybe they were trying to fix a stubborn leak? To your benefit, the FMX is steel case so not likely to scar up the sealing surface of the trans. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kingfish 11 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 This may sound stupid but make sure you've removed all of the bolts! Count the bolts you've removed against how many the trans pan has. It really only takes one un-removed bolt to hold the pan that tight! Whack it a good one with a rubber mallet not a hammer. I know you said Permatex but it almost sounds like the PO used good ole Indian Head gasket cement! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 More good ideas I have tried listed above lol. Seems like a few of us have dealt with things Siliconed together lol. Hope you made some progress. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 120 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 I'm guessing the PO used just RTV and NO PAPER GASKET based on the difficulty you are having. If the gasket were there sandwiched between RTV, it should be much easier. Doug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawkdriver 14 Report post Posted January 30, 2014 Got it, Thanks for the help all, It was done by putty knife and shimming it out as i went. Thanks for all your help. However i did find it bent slight, not sure if it was from me or PO as it did seep a little. Any advice on flattening it out prior to putting it back on. Thanks again for all the help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Is it twisted bent or is the flange uneven? If the latter, I'd use a plastic head hammer and use some finesse on it. Once you razor blade the right stuff off, I've found that the 2" round plastic type buffing pads remove the remaining rs material pretty well. Good luck. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hawkdriver 14 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Flange uneven, mainly dented around bolt holes slightly, noting major just want any problems moving forward Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Flange uneven, mainly dented around bolt holes slightly, noting major just want any problems moving forward If the bolt holes are dented or dished from over tightening, place the flange on a block of wood dished side down. Place the "ball end" of a small ball peen hammer on the raised hole and easily smack the hammer head with another hammer. This will push the "countersunk hole" back out. Take your time and DO not over hammer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 Figured that the putty knife would work. If you have a nice flat surface you may be able to hammer it back into shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69droptopgt 10 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 wycked beat me lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mach1mike 10 Report post Posted January 31, 2014 use a non metallic scraper like a thin piece of plexi-glas tap it in and won't damage the surface on either side, make a couple and work them in from different sides and should break free Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
