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Guillaume69

1969 GT Sportsroof

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You might want to consider removing the dynamat insulation prior to welding in that area; I suspect it may be reasonably flammable.

 

I'm glad, though, that you're fixing the car. Is this at the shop we went to when we adjusted your NSS?

Yes, Randy, same shop. But that was Max's car. An identical twin except I have a manual transmission and 351W engine. He has auto and 302 ;-)

 

Don't worry, the Dynamat panel will go when we cut the Qpanel and replace about a 1/3 of it. So far, we have been extra cautious with it. We have protected the interior of the car with specific sheets designed to protect from weld sparks, some type of extra strong fabric.

Actually, old brass welds are more of an issue as they pop in your face if you try to weld next to them. We'll tackle this soon with the Qpanel extensions. That's where these brass welds are located, for some reason...

 

G

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Is it just me ,or is it pretty even damaged ?

I think it would make a great sticky ,it should show every one that while the powers that be say it is totaled a true Mustanger knows better and should not give up .

Totaling a classic car simply does not make sense to me. Simply look at the state of some cars when we start with them ("rust buckets"), and how beautiful they turn out once we are done with them. Insurance companies do not understand any of this... Hagerty's might have been more helpful, but they wouldn't let me drive my car farther than a 100 miles, unless going to a show. And with very limited roadside assistance.

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Looking great!! I have Hagerty insurance and was very upfront with them regarding the car's usage. I'm putting on just about 6K miles a year. When I get in the car there is typically no destination in mind and the only stops are made for gasoline. I just love cruising around in it aimlessly, ticking the miles by. This is my 4th season since getting it back on the road after a total restoration and I'm approaching 20K miles. Hope you're cruising yours very soon.

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It looks like we could be done with body work early next week. Then I'll have to seal all the panels with seam sealant and spray the under carriage areas with bed liner. Then prime the car so that it can be loaded in a container without any surface rust issues.

 

I will have it painted back home, as here, all the decent paint shops are backed-up until November or December.

 

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Unfortunately, the phenomenon seems universal... I'd love to stay, but I am a Patriot. And it's time for me to go back. Our youngest son was born here though. As my friends at work say, we have an "anchor baby".

 

We'll be back for sure. This whole Southern U.S. region grew on me.

 

G

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Indeed. He definitely knows how to "persuade" metal into any shape he wants. Quite amazing to look at him doing it. I learned a lot helping him.

 

Back to business: I thought that during the restoration, I had looked everywhere, and sandblasted everything that could be salvaged. It turns out that I missed the license plate light, which I probably left in the bumper when I took it off the car and forgot about it after that.

 

This is fixed now. It's a nice original little part that thing, with its markings and part numbers.

 

It feels good to be taking care of details again.

 

G

 

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And on to adjusting the rear bumper. Like you all said before: repros are not very nice. Had to de-arc it: a jack, a 2,000 table and a little bit of finesse allowed a really nice result without compromising the plating. Or so I hope.

 

Then a little bit of work on the brackets, and the result is really promising. Once painted, the rear should look really tight.

 

The valance is next.

 

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A quick update here: we are done with cutting, grinding and welding. Woohoo! Final act was adjusting the rear valance and that's done.

 

Paint prep has started and after sealing all the new panels, I sprayed the undercarriage with bed liner. I am happy to say that I will soon be spraying color in the trunk interior.

 

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