Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 15, 2014 Yep, very similar "stance". My car looks a lot higher on her wheels but I like that "old school" look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 Finished proper install of the new radio. Super happy with the result. It's a Retrosound Model 2 "Malibu". Looks vintage and has Bluetooth and all the bells and whistles. It will even allow me to expand to European FM frequencies when I go back. The "Infinimount" system allows to adjust the shafts where you get a really nice fit. Now it does take a little bit of time to get a really good result, but man does this look good. As I had to trim the radio bezel a little to allow the rear knobs to fully rotate, I still have to touch up the "chrome" looking frame. Could not do it yesterday evening as I ran out of "kitchen garage credits"... To connect the head unit, and following Midlife's advice, I used the stock radio wire for power (switched) and the cigarette lighter wire for memory (permanent). That way, I did not have to hack into the newly refurbished stock underdash harness. I highly recommend this set up! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JamesS 10 Report post Posted October 21, 2014 Congratulations on a brilliant restoration. I hope it gives you many years of satisfaction! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Here, I wanted to share a couple seasonal pics. So I guess this is my early Halloween impression! :-) G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Double post Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 On a side note, I spent the week-end re-doing my intake gaskets. Didn't use the right gaskets, re-used old bolts, didn't torque the whole thing properly. As a result, I quickly detected abnormal coolant consumption without external leaks. Well the water was leaking from the intake into the heads, and I finally started to find milk at PCV valve and oil breather cap. Which was embarrassingly confirmed when I removed the valve covers... Thank God, nothing down in the lower engine, with a clean dipstick there. Oh well, I share this with you guys in spite of my embarrassment. I re-did it super nice and clean, with real nice gaskets and ARP bolts. Torqued it as it should, patiently. This was a big deal to me, as I am planning to drive her down to Daytona in mid-November to go see the Daytona Classic races! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Double post again. Some stuff got duplicated during the software migration, I guess... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Looks good, glad to hear it didn't cause you any major issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Looks good, glad to hear it didn't cause you any major issues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted October 28, 2014 Agreed. Glad no major issues were found. Nice radio btw, I've been meaning to go back to the old radio look, but been debating which radio to go with. i didn't realize they made these with bluetooth function, definitely adding one to my xmas list... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted October 28, 2014 Agreed. Glad no major issues were found. Nice radio btw, I've been meaning to go back to the old radio look, but been debating which radio to go with. i didn't realize they made these with bluetooth function, definitely adding one to my xmas list... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Pics would be even better if you got those orange things out of the way! Beautiful car - mind if I ask what color? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Agreed for the pics! LoL. But it was based on my 9 y.o boy "Halloween" request. Color is "Wave Blue". Originally car came in Acapulco Blue, which was a shade lighter and a little less "metallic". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 2, 2014 Agreed. Glad no major issues were found. Nice radio btw, I've been meaning to go back to the old radio look, but been debating which radio to go with. i didn't realize they made these with bluetooth function, definitely adding one to my xmas list... That Bluetooth function is absolutely awesome! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) All right, here is a little update on my coolant issues. So as I mentioned before, I've had coolant leaking in my heads, below the valve covers, between the valve springs. I thought it might be due to ill positioning/torquing of intake manifold. I removed it, replaced gaskets and bolts (Felpro / ARP), torqued again to specs very accurately (24 ft.lbs). That didn't solve my issue... Then I thought it might be the heads. Removed them, replaced gaskets and bolts (Felpro / ARP), re-torqued everything again (95 ft.lbs for the heads). Unfortunately, that didn't solve anything either. That's when I started looking at those heads a little closer. These are stock 351W heads. During the engine rebuild, they have been cleaned (baked), resurfaced, checked for cracks, and the stock "push-in" studs were replaced by "screw-in" ones, as the camshaft is now lifting more than stock. I finally applied a pressurizing tool to the radiator breather cap, pumped 16 psi and looked closer. I first heard air bubbling somewhere near the valve springs. Thought for a moment that the sand casting plugs might have come loose or be leaking, but it wasn't this either. And then, I finally saw it... Right at the base of each screw-in stud. Man, I swear I cursed the name of the motor shop owner, along with all his descendants for 6 generations! It should be an easy fix. I'll unscrew them and apply a proper sealant before torquing them back. I found a decent Permatex Aviation thread sealant that should do the trick for high temp water jackets. That brings me to my question to you guys: how should I screw the studs back in? Any torque spec associated? I can't seem to find anything about this. Thanks in advance for your help! G Edited November 21, 2014 by Guillaume69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) Edited April 24, 2015 by Guillaume69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
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1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 You can maybe check with ARP. I followed what the machine shop told me. 60 ft. lbs. with the Form A Gasket Aviation sealant you show in the photo. FYI, In my 351W I also used the 1011-1 head gaskets you show in the picture and a Fel Pro performance intake gasket. They work good but according to Fel Pro support those head gaskets need to be retorqued after the first heat cycle. Also, Fel Pro told me both those head gaskets and intake gaskets are not intended for long term use. I eventually replaced my 1011-1 head gaskets with Fel Pro 9333-PT1 head gaskets. Fel Pro told me the 9333-PT1 is a heavy duty perma torque gasket. A lot of people use the 9333-PT1 and I have had good luck with them on a 10.7:1 CR 351W. My Fel Pro performance intake gaskets would eventually wick coolant and deteriorate around the coolant passages after about a year. I eventually swapped out the intake gaskets with an Edelbrock version that is designed for long term use. They look identical to the Fel Pro performance intake gaskets but the material feels different. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 You can maybe check with ARP. I followed what the machine shop told me. 60 ft. lbs. with the Form A Gasket Aviation sealant you show in the photo. FYI, In my 351W I also used the 1011-1 head gaskets you show in the picture and a Fel Pro performance intake gasket. They work good but according to Fel Pro support those head gaskets need to be retorqued after the first heat cycle. Also, Fel Pro told me both those head gaskets and intake gaskets are not intended for long term use. I eventually replaced my 1011-1 head gaskets with Fel Pro 9333-PT1 head gaskets. Fel Pro told me the 9333-PT1 is a heavy duty perma torque gasket. A lot of people use the 9333-PT1 and I have had good luck with them on a 10.7:1 CR 351W. My Fel Pro performance intake gaskets would eventually wick coolant and deteriorate around the coolant passages after about a year. I eventually swapped out the intake gaskets with an Edelbrock version that is designed for long term use. They look identical to the Fel Pro performance intake gaskets but the material feels different. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks for the spec, I'll try 60 ft.lbs then. As far as the gaskets go, the Tech from Summit I ordered them from didn't mention this longevity issue at all. I guess I'll find out... No racing plan with this engine, though, just driving it around, including long range trips. I had planned to re torque the intake after the first heating cycle. Should I do the heads as well then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) According to Fel Pro tech support, I was told the 1011-1 head gaskets require retorquing after the first heat cycle. They had a specific procedure and I don't know if I recall it exactly because I didn't want to do it. I would definitely check with Fel Pro but I think it was something like this, doing one bolt bolt at a time in the torque pattern break the bolt loose then retorque to the full amount. Sounds easy until you realize you have to drain the coolant and remove both the rocker arms and exhaust manifolds. As far as the torque on the rocker arm studs, I don't know if this matters but my studs are ARP and 60 ft. lbs. sounded high to me for that size of thread but it worked for me. **** I just checked ARP's web site, for their rocker arm studs for the 351w with cast iron cylinder heads they specify a torque of 55 ft. lbs. with a thread sealant on the threads, 45 ft. lbs. on aluminum heads and still using thread sealant. Good Luck Edited November 21, 2014 by 1969_Mach1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 (edited) According to Fel Pro tech support, I was told the 1011-1 head gaskets require retorquing after the first heat cycle. They had a specific procedure and I don't know if I recall it exactly because I didn't want to do it. I would definitely check with Fel Pro but I think it was something like this, doing one bolt bolt at a time in the torque pattern break the bolt loose then retorque to the full amount. Sounds easy until you realize you have to drain the coolant and remove both the rocker arms and exhaust manifolds. As far as the torque on the rocker arm studs, I don't know if this matters but my studs are ARP and 60 ft. lbs. sounded high to me for that size of thread but it worked for me. **** I just checked ARP's web site, for their rocker arm studs for the 351w with cast iron cylinder heads they specify a torque of 55 ft. lbs. with a thread sealant on the threads, 45 ft. lbs. on aluminum heads and still using thread sealant. Good Luck Edited November 21, 2014 by 1969_Mach1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted November 21, 2014 Very good info. I am going to check the FELPRO website. Again, thanks for the head's up! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
