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kevin31

69 gt sr

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Hello everyone,

 

This oil pan is installed on my engine

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-g3539/overview/make/ford

 

But I have a doubt concerning the lenght of my dipstisk, as i have to fill more than 5 qts to see the oil touching the dipstick. :001_huh:

 

Is it possible to have the measurements from your own engine?

 

Thkx

K

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Hello everyone,

 

This oil pan is installed on my engine

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-g3539/overview/make/ford

 

But I have a doubt concerning the lenght of my dipstisk, as i have to fill more than 5 qts to see the oil touching the dipstick. :001_huh:

 

Is it possible to have the measurements from your own engine?

 

Thkx

K

 

are you looking for this type of information?

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11304

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Yes buckeye!

 

This is exactly the same problem!

Tube is 13"

Dipstick is 20,5"

 

Thanks for you input!!

 

And for the oil pan I compare with Guillaume69, mine is 0,5" deeper.

 

 

New problem...

The car has now 500km, and everything was ok until last day. I was on the highway, and when I took the exit, there was a big noise, looks like a bearing noise.

The noise starts when I reach 30/40 km/h (20/25 mph) and between 55-75 km/h, (35/50 mph) it is really noticeable!

I can feel vibration on the clutch pedal. Not a big one, but it was not here before for sure.

 

Furthermore, the noise is still here, even when there is no gear engage on the toploader, and increase with the speed

 

I post 2 videos, at least you can hear the noise. Sorry for the quality, and for my English as well, because it is a bit hard for me to translate my feelings.

 

 

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Almost sounds like a wheel bearing, can you make the pitch/sound change when you veer the steering back and forth Lt and Rt ? Hope that makes sense.

 

 

You were right!

 

I installed the bearings with the wrong grease, and too tight. :innocent:

 

Anyway..now it's good. Not really.. I have a flickering issue when all 4 headlights are on..

 

But when only low beam are on (external), it's ok..

 

Could it be ground issue?

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Actually, I would test both switches to start with: high beam switch on the floor and the lights switch under the dash.

 

That color and that car look fantastic!

 

Ok, so the lights switch under the dash is brand new, Scott drake .

 

Then, high beam switch, I swapped with an other one, and same problem. Then I realized that both switches were very hot when I tried them.

 

Any ideas?

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Well, I have a spare one...sounds a good idea. The only thing, this harness is not for tach, tilt away steering and A/C...do not know if midlife can do this mod to the harness. I will contact him...

 

For the problem that I have, I swapped the halogen for the original sealed high beam. Problem disappeared. Sealed beam and halogen are 60w either.

 

Any ideas ?

 

K.

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Some news here in France...my car has less than 1000miles, and my brake booster is dead.

I can here the vacuum when I press the brake pedal.

 

Everything was new, not rebuilt.

I have disc in all corners. My booster was strong enough? Do not know...

 

Now, I am looking for a new one.. Any idea to choose the right booster?

Or maybe there is an adjustment to do prior to install on the car? MC rod?...etc...

Thanks for your help guys!

Edited by kevin31

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Thanks Bob,

 

But I try to find the best solution to not spend a huge amount of money. So here in France, a fond a tuff stuff booster (2225nb reference).

And I was Wondering if I could swap a 8" dual diaphragm, by a 9" single diaphragm.

 

I found this http://www.classicperform.com/PDFs/BoosterBrakePressureChart.pdf, and I can see that the pressure delivered is almost the same in both case.

 

Am I right? Will it work for my application? Manual trnasmission, etc....nothing is mentioned on the tuff stuff

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