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Glenn83

Rear quarter replacement

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Couple different ways it can be done depending on the location of the damage. Anywhere probably 8-12 as a wag. Been several years since I've written a sheet. Paint time around 3. Plus materials. Somebody here surely must work at a shop with correct time.

 

Edit: hell, your car looks great in your album! New damage?

 

Bob

Edited by RPM

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Hahaha, it needs a full resto, just had it blasted, needs both quarters replaced, tail light pannel, new floor pan , radiator support pannel, fender aprons. So it should keep me busy for a while!!!!

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Can anyone tell me roughly how many hrs work ( by a body shop )there would be in replacing a rear quarter pannel on a 69 fastback??

 

Don't know about the cost of having it done, but if you have the time it's not as difficult as you might first think. I replaced both quarters, window filler, trunk pans and drop offs, inner and outer wheel housings, tail light panel, trunk rear cross member, one piece floor pan and the list goes on and on. I'm no body and fender man and it will overwhelm you at first but when you get started on it it's not so bad.

Dave

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Thanks for the reply Dave, i have thought about doing it myself, but at the moment it does seem abit out of my league, i do have very basic fabrication skills and i am a qualified mechanic plus most of the tools, maybe i should man up and try!!! :)

It would be nice if there were some Vids or books that gave some tips on how to.

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Glenn,

Like Dave stated above I also am NOT a body man & have NEVER done this kind of work before I used to be a mechanic by trade but that has been many years ago. See what time & a lot of patience did for me, it can do for you too. I also sis not know how to weld before I got this Mustang, I bought a welder & taught myself. I have replaced the tail light panel, rear gas tank support panel, l/s trunk floor, outer wheel house, quarter skin, & door shell, r/s trunk drop off, outer wheel house, quarter skin, & door skin.

100_0534_zps101cd4d6.jpg

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I found a parts car with good quarters. I drilled all the spot welds and took the complete quarter out of the donor and my car. It was a lot of work but I feel I can get it back to together better that cutting a straight line for a skin. Plus there is some awesome information on this site.

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What are the quarter skins like?? ive heard mixed opinions on them, some say just do the complete panel and not to use the skins. The skins are a shit load cheaper than the full panels if the full panel isnt needed.

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What are the quarter skins like?? ive heard mixed opinions on them, some say just do the complete panel and not to use the skins. The skins are a shit load cheaper than the full panels if the full panel isnt needed.

 

Skins are alot cheaper, but there is more welding than a full quarter. Guess it depends on if you want a long weld seam somewhere or factory looking. I went full quarters, so I didn't have to deal with hiding a weld seam. Either are not bad to do, just takes some time. Bunches of threads on quarter replacement on here, give it a try.

 

1211121604_zps3936a0e3.jpg

 

Edited by latoracing
Pic blurry

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I got the skins and so far it's worked out well. I worked with the theory that I wanted to keep as much original metal as I could. You can see in the pic where my seams are. This way I kept the original rear window area, scoop area, sail area, door jam and rear taillight area.

 

72FD2E6F-FABD-4A2C-A870-BE99F707933E_zps64kvnabz.jpg

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I got the skins and so far it's worked out well. I worked with the theory that I wanted to keep as much original metal as I could. You can see in the pic where my seams are. This way I kept the original rear window area, scoop area, sail area, door jam and rear taillight area.

 

72FD2E6F-FABD-4A2C-A870-BE99F707933E_zps64kvnabz.jpg

Is that a Butt or Fillet Weld?

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I did skins because that is all they make for the Coupe. I did the seam about 1" down from the top so when looking into the trunk you can not see any seam because it is all the way at the top body line seen only if you stick your head inside the trunk & look up under the quarter panel.

 

100_0499_zps1515f824.jpg

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Is that a Butt or Fillet Weld?

 

Those are butt welds. A LOT of but welds. :thumbup:

 

I cut out the old panel and left 2-3" more metal than I needed around the edge where I wanted the seam to be. Then I trimmed the new skin, removing parts I didn't need. Basically I got it so the new panel and old overlapped a couple of inches. I screwed the two panels together then ran a 3" wheel through the overlapped area. This left a good gap to weld and I was able to make sure the wheel well and trunk drop off lined up before I did my final cut. The only thing I will do different on the other side is to not make the large top cut first or all at once. It left a bit of play in the skin and when I cut the overlap under the scoop the gap was a little bigger than I would have liked.

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I have done 2 skins and 1 full 1/4 on my passenger side of my 69.... I was never satisfied with the quality of the skins at the bottom or around the scoop. the firs one, I left the original scoop and did what you did, the second one, i got a skin with the scoop already cut in it but my 1/4 pillar was f-ed up so i finally went with the full 1/4. It was costly at $600 or so (when it first came out) but now, looking back, it was 100% worth it. Just make sure you take your time with the body work.

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