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dl69droptop

AOD and gear options

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Well, to do the swap for the transmission there is some fabrication work. How much is up kinda up to you on how much you want to save and how much you have the ability to accomplish. The swaps are fairly easy for your application.

 

Now, the rear end gearing. You can have a new ring and pinion installed in your center section or you can buy a center section already setup. Again, how much do you want to spend is the factor. I would go with nothing lower than a 3.50:1 rear gear. I did 3.73:1 on mine, but it is not running yet so I can't tell you how it is going to work out. I'm sure someone will chime in with some math to let you know what your RPM options are. Just give it a day or two. LOL B.

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Okay, any Ford AOD prior to 1993 will not need a computer. They shift via a Throttle Valve cable that is attached to the throttle of your engine and runs down to operate the TV lever on the left side of the transmission behind the shift linkage. These transmission were all mechanically operated. I have pics of my TV system where I modded the factory brackets to work on my application. So if you go that route I can load them up for you. I feel the factory TV cable is much sturdier then the Lokar aftermarket junk stuff. I know some people love their Lokar stuff and that's fine. But some people hated the Lokar stuff and that's fine too. Besides, the factory TV cable assembly was designed by Ford to last for years and to make sure their vehicle made it through what ever warranty Ford offered back then. Where as aftermarket stuff is only warrantied for their product. If it fails and you toast a transmission they are not going to pay for your transmission.

 

Okay, got that out of the way. You want an AOD from a small block Ford V8 in the year range 1989 to 1993 out of a midsized or full sized car. The midsized car transmission will have a short tail shaft. The full sized car transmission will have a long tail shaft. Which is only about an inch difference anyway. LOL But if all you can find are the long tail shaft transmissions it's not a problem, you just may have to have your drive shaft shortened that's all. Also, the 89-93 AOD's have an improved oiling system and slightly stronger parts depending on application. The bell housing on Ford's MOD motor AOD's is different AFTER 1993. So only the first year of MOD motor AOD applications will work behind your 302. Otherwise you will need an AOD that came out from behind a small block Ford. The two bell housing patterns look the same, but they are NOT the same. And unless you have them to compare side by side at that moment, it is easy to look at a MOD motor bellhousing AOD and say, "Yep she will work alright." Then try and bolt her up later and see. Not fun.

 

Now, the fun part. The AODE, (E) as in electronic, and the 4R70W are operated via a computer. You can buy dedicated stand alone controllers for these transmissions for applications that are not computerized already. But that adds cost. And why? here's why.

 

The AODE and 4R70W have even stronger internal components than the 89-93 AOD's. BUT, here's the kicker. You can retro fit the newer internal components into your AOD to obtain the added benefits. I did that by the way too. You can usually find the need newer AODE/4R70W parts on ebay. There are a couple of things that have to be changed out as a unit, but used parts are fairly cheap.

 

I got my transmission out of a 1992 full sized car and as such it already had some of the newer stronger components already there. I think all I had to buy was a forward drum assembly.

 

The deal with the newer components over the older components is two fold. The newer components are stamped steel allowing you to use additional clutches in the clutch packs allowing them to hold more power before they slip and burn. Also, the newer stamped steel components are lighter and soak up less parasitic HP from your engine allowing you to put more HP to the ground. The flip side is some feel the stamped steel components are more likely to fail in high HP applications. As such the school of thought there is to use the older heavier cast iron components for strength. Which way that coin toss goes is really heavily debated.

 

For your 302, I would use the AOD with the newer stamped steel AODE/4R70W internals with additional clutches for longevity. You engine is not going to break the stamped steel stuff. Mine is behind a 428CJ FE and is built to handle 550 HP. Which my engine is NOT going to make. Guesstimate, or SWAG if you prefer, is right around 430 HP. So I'm safe.

 

Check out clickclickracing.com for full details on the Ford AOD and it's mods. There is a ton of reading there. B.

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Okay, any Ford AOD prior to 1993 will not need a computer. They shift via a Throttle Valve cable that is attached to the throttle of your engine and runs down to operate the TV lever on the left side of the transmission behind the shift linkage. These transmission were all mechanically operated. I have pics of my TV system where I modded the factory brackets to work on my application. So if you go that route I can load them up for you. I feel the factory TV cable is much sturdier then the Lokar aftermarket junk stuff. I know some people love their Lokar stuff and that's fine. But some people hated the Lokar stuff and that's fine too. Besides, the factory TV cable assembly was designed by Ford to last for years and to make sure their vehicle made it through what ever warranty Ford offered back then. Where as aftermarket stuff is only warrantied for their product. If it fails and you toast a transmission they are not going to pay for your transmission.

 

Okay, got that out of the way. You want an AOD from a small block Ford V8 in the year range 1989 to 1993 out of a midsized or full sized car. The midsized car transmission will have a short tail shaft. The full sized car transmission will have a long tail shaft. Which is only about an inch difference anyway. LOL But if all you can find are the long tail shaft transmissions it's not a problem, you just may have to have your drive shaft shortened that's all. Also, the 89-93 AOD's have an improved oiling system and slightly stronger parts depending on application. The bell housing on Ford's MOD motor AOD's is different AFTER 1993. So only the first year of MOD motor AOD applications will work behind your 302. Otherwise you will need an AOD that came out from behind a small block Ford. The two bell housing patterns look the same, but they are NOT the same. And unless you have them to compare side by side at that moment, it is easy to look at a MOD motor bellhousing AOD and say, "Yep she will work alright." Then try and bolt her up later and see. Not fun.

 

Now, the fun part. The AODE, (E) as in electronic, and the 4R70W are operated via a computer. You can buy dedicated stand alone controllers for these transmissions for applications that are not computerized already. But that adds cost. And why? here's why.

 

The AODE and 4R70W have even stronger internal components than the 89-93 AOD's. BUT, here's the kicker. You can retro fit the newer internal components into your AOD to obtain the added benefits. I did that by the way too. You can usually find the need newer AODE/4R70W parts on ebay. There are a couple of things that have to be changed out as a unit, but used parts are fairly cheap.

 

I got my transmission out of a 1992 full sized car and as such it already had some of the newer stronger components already there. I think all I had to buy was a forward drum assembly.

 

The deal with the newer components over the older components is two fold. The newer components are stamped steel allowing you to use additional clutches in the clutch packs allowing them to hold more power before they slip and burn. Also, the newer stamped steel components are lighter and soak up less parasitic HP from your engine allowing you to put more HP to the ground. The flip side is some feel the stamped steel components are more likely to fail in high HP applications. As such the school of thought there is to use the older heavier cast iron components for strength. Which way that coin toss goes is really heavily debated.

 

For your 302, I would use the AOD with the newer stamped steel AODE/4R70W internals with additional clutches for longevity. You engine is not going to break the stamped steel stuff. Mine is behind a 428CJ FE and is built to handle 550 HP. Which my engine is NOT going to make. Guesstimate, or SWAG if you prefer, is right around 430 HP. So I'm safe.

 

Check out clickclickracing.com for full details on the Ford AOD and it's mods. There is a ton of reading there. B.

 

Bruce

You mentioned 89's and above have a improved oiling system.

I have read this somewhere before. I have an earlier AOD It came with the

car when I purchased it. I was told it came from a 1981 van. My question is

do you know if these oiling improvements can be done to the earlier AOD's

Dave

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If I remember correctly the improved oil flow was made to the internal components. So if you use the newer internals you should get the improvements. But you would need to verify this as my research is several years old. B.

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If I remember correctly the improved oil flow was made to the internal components. So if you use the newer internals you should get the improvements. But you would need to verify this as my research is several years old. B.

 

 

Thanks a bunch

Dave

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Bruce

You mentioned 89's and above have a improved oiling system.

I have read this somewhere before. I have an earlier AOD It came with the

car when I purchased it. I was told it came from a 1981 van. My question is

do you know if these oiling improvements can be done to the earlier AOD's

Dave

 

If anyone else wants to know about the oiling improvements on the earlier AOD ( I think pre 1989) If you change the output shaft to the latest

one this will upgrade the oiling also at least that is what I understand.

Dave

Edited by det0326

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There are a variety of transmission sellers that sell performance versions of the AODs with all the beefed up internals that you need from the E and 4R70W models. While not the cheapest route, it is turnkey, and most offer a warranty. I would go that route.

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