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Trans am nose drop

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I seem to recall hearing that the Boss Trans Am cars actually had the frame and/or front fenders sectioned somehow and tilted down at a different degree, maybe that is what he is reffering to?

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I think it was one of the 69 trans am cars being set up to run at daytona. IIRC, the radiator support was shortened and the side aprons were modified in order to angle the fenders & hood down at the front. The aft edge of the fenders were notched and the fenders tilted slightly from the top and overlapped the lower rockers about an inch or so. I have a picture somewhere, in a book I believe.

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"I seem to recall hearing that the Boss Trans Am cars actually had the frame and/or front fenders sectioned somehow and tilted down at a different degree, maybe that is what he is reffering to?"

 

Yes my brain says that Shelby Drop didn't change body stance, but Trans Am drop does.

 

Can't remember where I read this,...

 

JIM

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It's a pie shape cute done from the core support to the shock towers. Kar Kraft did it to the 1969 trans am mustangs ( team Shelby, bud Moore, smoky yunick, Allen moffat and probably a few more cars)

 

There is a few people on boss302.com that have done it to build Vintage racing mustangs.

 

It looks like a tough modification to do.

Edited by 970fizz

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Thanks for the reply's guys, yes it is the pie shaped cut in the inner fenders I was refering to. I have seen it done once and in his blog he says there are more than one way to do it so I wanted to look at alternatives although the way this has been done looks pretty good, here is a link if anyone wants a look at what I am talking about.

https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551

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If you have a look at a Real Trans am race car from back in the day, like Allan Moffats, you will see how much lower they sat at the front. A lot is due to suspension mods but a significant amount is due to this nose drop.

On a road car you can only lower the suspension so far before you start hitting speed humps etc so I thought this might be way to get that low stance without hitting everything. I might try this on my next project.

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I just did it on my '69 TA clone racer. I copied that yellow car above, which is here in Houston as well. Its not too hard if you can weld. Here are his pics:

 

https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551

 

I'll try and post pics when my car gets rolled out into daylight. Right now I am installing the rear bulkhead panel and rear roll cage legs.

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I just did it on my '69 TA clone racer. I copied that yellow car above, which is here in Houston as well. Its not too hard if you can weld. Here are his pics:

 

https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551

 

I'll try and post pics when my car gets rolled out into daylight. Right now I am installing the rear bulkhead panel and rear roll cage legs.

 

Dude, post up the roll bar tab pics! Pleeese :)

 

Bob

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This looks like it might be fun to do, and different. Leave it up to racers to figure this sort of stuff out, I certainly would have never came up with it. Need new front aprons and a radiator support anyway, why not cut up new parts before they are installed, just about have myself talked into it...:hammer:

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Leave it up to racers to figure this sort of stuff out, I certainly would have never came up with it. ...:hammer:

 

 

Here is the side panel welded back in even with the top of the shock tower. Notice in the background on the vertical fender edge the primered area....this is where the barb is removed and re-welded allowing the fender to come down. Second pic shows the stance with the roughed-in flared front fender. Stance is 24" from ground up to center of flare lip. First attempt at flaring.....amazing what you can do if you are forced.

 

11668628525_9f474eac10_c.jpg

 

11669065784_27476f19e0_c.jpg

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Nice! LOVE the Mini Lite wheels, along with the flairs, looks like you've played with some metal before.

 

When you sectioned the fender (primered area) to get them to fit, did it "pooch" the fender out a little in the wheel well area? Looks like there is quite a bit of room since you've done the flair also.

 

24", Dang! I like it even more!

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Nice! LOVE the Mini Lite wheels, along with the flairs, looks like you've played with some metal before.

 

Actually, my only prior experience was last week when I did this as a test on a partial rear quarter. Before this I didn't even own a body hammer:

 

11395725596_16e3a88166_c.jpg

 

When you sectioned the fender (primered area) to get them to fit, did it "pooch" the fender out a little in the wheel well area? Looks like there is quite a bit of room since you've done the flair also.

 

No, the nose drop did not cause any pooch, though I had expected it would. The flaring has created more than ample room for turns at speed under compression without rubbing. I am now beginning to work on the final edge shape and surface. Amazingly, using the hammer and dolly I almost have it where I can't feel any imperfections in the surface. The quarter panel above was smooth as glass.

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The rear flares were a combination of a 5/16" outer rod and an insert I cut after some measuring and calculating arcs. The end result is a flare that feels like it has a rolled lip but doesn't. It was harder to setup and design the arcs and the rods than to flare the front. Wish I had it to do over knowing what I know now (that I have Michael Angelo flaring talent), I'd flip the car over on a rotisserie and I think I could flare the rears with 6-8 hours on each.

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TX427Cobra,

 

Have you stuck your radiator back in to see if it fits? Didn't know if 1" made a whole lot of difference in how it would fit.

 

This car will have a 302 Boss racing engine stuffed in it so the stock radiator isn't going back in.

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