Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 2 hours ago, RPM said: I don't see a roll bar or cage in any of those photos. At the front of section 25 there are details on frames. I was told the spec is 2x3 Mild steel tubing minimum thickness of .120. Personally i don't drag race, but know a few racers. I hear the frustration they go through when getting too fast with the wrong setup. One of the guys did this with a Mustang 2 and ran an 8.36. At the far end of the track the frame was broken in 3 spots and the car was all twisted up. He got booted until he rebuilt it to SFI specs. He dialed in a 10.1 so he would not have to meet the specs. Luckily the only thing he hurt was the car. He had to do some major sweet talking in order to not get kicked off of the track permanently. My point is that if you are going to run at the strip you might want to make sure you don't get booted due to specifications. At the track here you have to get a chassis certification if you run under 10. And you will have to have a 6 point roll bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 How difficult was the welder series to install? I have been giving serious thought to either doing this or strut type suspension. I am sure it will be a little different since you are full frame but i am curios to know if you ran into and issues with it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 2 hours ago, RPM said: I don't see a roll bar or cage in any of those photos. Still in the body. 6 point. Those are going to be the points where I attach to the frame. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 5 minutes ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: How difficult was the welder series to install? I have been giving serious thought to either doing this or strut type suspension. I am sure it will be a little different since you are full frame but i am curios to know if you ran into and issues with it? I did it for the original 69 frame. Worked great, and was very easy to install. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 1 minute ago, Footcutter11 said: I did it for the original 69 frame. Worked great, and was very easy to install. How much difference did it make on how steering and suspension felt. Was it worth the improvements? I like the way mine corners but it feels kinda squirrley on light cornering and has quite a bit of bump steer. What about wheel fit. Was it good or did you have to do anything special? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 1 minute ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: How much difference did it make on how steering and suspension felt. Was it worth the improvements? I like the way mine corners but it feels kinda squirrley on light cornering and has quite a bit of bump steer. What about wheel fit. Was it good or did you have to do anything special? It was huge. But I also did a triangulated 4 link in the rear. It stuck to the road like a modern car. Before I upgraded the brakes, I had 15" magnum 500s, and cooper cobra rubber. I also dropped the whole car by 2", drop spindles are a must. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 I was thinking a parallel 4 link with coil overs in the rear and Mustang 2 for the front. What are the pros and cons of the triangulated over the parallel 4 link setup? I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on the front and 1inch on the back. If I drop the back any more my headers will touch the ground. I have a custom built rack and pinion conversion similar to the steeroids one. it works good but parking sucks. Turn radius is way to short for a sharp corner when parking. Bet it is great for hard street cornering. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 9 hours ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: I was thinking a parallel 4 link with coil overs in the rear and Mustang 2 for the front. What are the pros and cons of the triangulated over the parallel 4 link setup? I am currently dropped about 2.5 inches on the front and 1inch on the back. If I drop the back any more my headers will touch the ground. I have a custom built rack and pinion conversion similar to the steeroids one. it works good but parking sucks. Turn radius is way to short for a sharp corner when parking. Bet it is great for hard street cornering. Parallel as I understand it is for straight line launching, I could be wrong. I had a manual rack, and it turned like a battleship at slow speeds. I am going with a power rack on this iteration. Sounds like you are as close to the weeds as possible! :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 From what i could find with parallel you almost have to add a watts link help stabilize the rear for cornering. Pretty darn low. Too Low. I need to move it up some. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 3 minutes ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: From what i could find with parallel you almost have to add a watts link help stabilize the rear for cornering. Pretty darn low. Too Low. I need to move it up some. Beautiful! I love the stance, mean... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 11 hours ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: At the front of section 25 there are details on frames. I was told the spec is 2x3 Mild steel tubing minimum thickness of .120. Personally i don't drag race, but know a few racers. I hear the frustration they go through when getting too fast with the wrong setup. One of the guys did this with a Mustang 2 and ran an 8.36. At the far end of the track the frame was broken in 3 spots and the car was all twisted up. He got booted until he rebuilt it to SFI specs. He dialed in a 10.1 so he would not have to meet the specs. Luckily the only thing he hurt was the car. He had to do some major sweet talking in order to not get kicked off of the track permanently. My point is that if you are going to run at the strip you might want to make sure you don't get booted due to specifications. At the track here you have to get a chassis certification if you run under 10. And you will have to have a 6 point roll bar. I am 2x4 tubing which has a geometrical advantage. I am going to grind the surface welds for a clean look. I beveled the connections, and left a small gap for a strong weld. I will leave the inside corner welds, no need to grind those. Compared to the original unibody, it will be very strong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 7, 2017 Coil over towers in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 8, 2017 Starting to stuff the frame so things can be located. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 8, 2017 Looking good. Sorry to be a critic. But The rear cross member on your coil overs looks like it is only tacked in the picture. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 8, 2017 38 minutes ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: Looking good. Sorry to be a critic. But The rear cross member on your coil overs looks like it is only tacked in the picture. Good eye. Still a lot of welding to do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 12, 2017 Mocking up the engine and turbo headers. I think a mistake I made before was to only support the turbos with just the header flange. No wonder I had exhaust leaks... duh... Now I will support them at the front of the head and at the turbo itself. Some of you very observant folks will look at the engine at go.."those are LS1 headers!" Well, your right. They have better flow, and the bolts are not jammed right up next to the tube. The new bolt holes are into the water jacket, but modern sealers will have no problem keeping the water in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 12, 2017 Headers are on backwards or am I missing something Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 12, 2017 Twin turbos up front. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 12, 2017 37 minutes ago, Caseyrhe said: Headers are on backwards or am I missing something What RPM said. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted August 13, 2017 And now we know the rest of the story! 1 Footcutter11 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 13, 2017 Are you going to cram an inter-cooler in there somewhere. Gotta be some room somewhere. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: Are you going to cram an inter-cooler in there somewhere. Gotta be some room somewhere. :) I am going to use a water to air intercooler. It is a system from a 2007 GT500. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 13, 2017 Interesting. I have never heard of this type of system. How does it work? Does it use engine coolant or is it a separate system? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver_69_Coupe 31 Report post Posted August 13, 2017 I Guess I should have looked it up. Interesting setup. Should worker better that just an air inter-cooler. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Footcutter11 23 Report post Posted August 14, 2017 2 hours ago, Silver_69_Coupe said: I Guess I should have looked it up. Interesting setup. Should worker better that just an air inter-cooler. I also have a wet meth system too. Should lower temperatures significantly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
