metalgraver 12 Report post Posted October 9, 2013 First of all I would like to say hello to every body in Mustang land. I recently purchased a 1969 Mach 1 to restore. I have had the cowling, kick panels and floors replaced. There is still some sheet metal work on the rear 1/4`s and trunk to do, but Iam going to wait on that and work on rebuilding the suspension and brakes over the winter. So I have read a few posts on several sites about suspensions but have not really been able to get much information as to what kit would be the best for the money. I do know that I do not have a lot of money. This car will be a daily driver and will never see a drag strip or race track, not to say I will never get into a friendly run with a Chevy but nothing serious. I would like a nice smooth ride with good handling on the freeway or a country road for a nice weekend cruze with the wife. The shop that did the sheet metal was going to put a Grab-A-Trac suspension in it but I have read that the bushings in those squeak to much. So what do you guys think? for a DIY`er. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted October 9, 2013 My GAT rear suspension has never squeaked after 6 years.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manley 13 Report post Posted October 9, 2013 I bought all my stuff from http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ John and Sherri are pretty nice to work with if you have some special request like I did for my tie rods since I am using 70 spindles instead of 69. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted October 10, 2013 I bought my front suspension from Street or Track along with rear shocks (Bilstiens). Also bought GAT 4.5 mid eye leafs from mustangs plus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) I never found a part list on the threads or other forums, in my case I bought a sway bar at a very nice price so the kits that were sold on grab a track didnt quite worked for me so I made this parts list with le standard lowest price on ebay so if you find a part with a lower price with free shipping buy it! if on a budget and have time to buy on fleabay go with moog stuff components you will want to replace if doing a complete suspension job in the front: new tie rod ends, inner and out (pay the premium to go Moog here) New upper control arm shaft and bushings (the original one tends to oval out). new bushings for upper control arm coil spring perch new bushings for lower control arm (you can't replace the ball joint however, so you may be better of just getting new lower control arms that come with new ball joint and bushings) new upper control arm ball joint new sway bar bushings and endlinks (you should really consider upgrading to a larger sway bar too, it will improve handling substantially) new coil spring insulator new coil spring (620 spring 1" shorter offers some handling benefit) new shocks new front strut rod bushings OK the parts list with prices rebuild UCA: 2 upper control arm shaft MOOG, part number K8233 44USD 2 Moog Ball Joint Upper Mustang K8036 25.30 USD PM 10.50 2 lower control arm moog K8123 $38.97 PM $31.01 nappa #10812 $32 McQuay-Norris FA1020 $45 2 Moog ES364RL Steering Tie Rod End inner $35 QS $22.87 2 Moog ES387R Outer Tie Rod End $21 PM $9.99 Mustang 65-73 Polyurethane Coil Spring Perch Bushings $37 1 MOOG K8161 Idler Arm $40 ASP 25.50 MOOG K8122 Strut Rod Kit $19.69 pm $19.94 energy suspension 4-7111G 2 Mustang Coil Spring Insulator $5.03 I hope it helps Edited October 10, 2013 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kris 90 Report post Posted October 10, 2013 I would not recomment rebuilding the upper control arms. I have worked on many of these car and have a friend that does this for a living. I have yet to find a pair that when i got the upper shafts out the threads in the arm were not crap and will not hold the end tight. My buddy said he quit rebuilding them due to a liability as they have a tendency to work themselves loose when torqued to spec and with loc tight even if the arm threads were good which is very rare. Go safe and go new. I know people are going to disagree with this but im sure most have only done one car and dont drive it a lot either. I personally woul not take a chance as I have seen a control arm shaft fail on a friends dodge pickup and it is not pretty. Just my 2 cents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 10, 2013 (edited) in my case the upper control arms had a refurb job but since Im gonna take all down Im gonna replace it if the guy tells me that they need to be replace I just resell the kit and maybe it will help some other guy prolly you are right on this but every car is a lil diff so who knows until the susp is down thanks for your opinion :) I really appreciate it Edited October 10, 2013 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
