Top loader doesn't like to shift at high RPMs

[1969mustang 10]

I am having some problems shifting my top loader at high rpm's. Everything is new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing. The transmission was rebuilt and I am using an older hurst shifter that my Dad bought in the 80's. We put all new bushings in the shifter and have it adjusted on the money. It shifts good until you get up over 4500 rpm. My rev limiter is set at 6500. It comes out of gear good but doesn't want to go into the next and it does it the worst when shifting from 1st to 2nd. If you let the RPMs fall down to about 4500 it will fall right in gear. Normal driving is perfect but trying to speed shift when revving high is very difficult.

Has anyone else ever had this problem?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Drew

[sportsroof69 13]

Yep. Honestly, it's a fairly common problem, and that's why I made the switch to something more reliable for making track passes.

[Brian Conway 264]

http://www.toploaderheaven.com/

 

Give these guys a call they may be able to help. Brian

[sportsroof69 13]

Mark is great, and luckily for me, he only lives an hour away. He said my problem stemmed from the Z bar. I fought it for a full season, and then went to a C4.

[therebel 10]

I thought there were different grades of syncros. Some were cheap and and some were better. Maybe you have the cheap ones. I used to have a NV4500 transmission that would chew through stock syncros like they were nothing and perform like your top loader is doing. I found some Kevlar coated syncros and my shifting problems stopped.

 

Also, don't laugh but I've had luck running tractor hydraulic fluid in my old 3 speed that used to to that too. An old Ford mechanic who runs a speed shop now told me about it once so I tried it and it worked.

[Brian Conway 264]

Any particulars on that 'tractor hydraulic fluid' ? Manufacturer, weight or type ?

 

428/4 speed car. Speed/RPM's don't seem to matter but the temperature does. The hotter it is the crappier the shift. I have moved all the way up Castrol 85-145 gear lube. It has made shifting a little better but not as good as I would like. I have tried the lighter weights and the synthetics and am now trying the 85-145. Best so far. Brian

[therebel 10]

Type RO from NAPA is what I used.

[Brian Conway 264]

Thanks, Brian

[superduty69 11]

Are you using a stock bell housing or after market? If after market did you index it?

[1969mustang 10]

It has been a very long time since I have got on here but I was going let you guys know that I got my shifting problem fixed. I was not getting enough travel out of my clutch linkage and my clutch was not releasing like it should. I ended up drilling another hole in my clutch pedal down lower to get more travel out of it.

Thanks everyone for the help.

[Brian Conway 264]

Stock 11.5" clutch, stock bell housing, Z-Bar, rods and pivots ? The only change from OE is the Hurst Shifter and new upper clutch rod location ? Brian

[1969mustang 10]

I should have been more specific before. I've got a older Lakewood scatter shield, centerforce II clutch and pressure plate, autozone throw out bearing, stock style z-bar that has been beefed up with plate steel, stock rod going from the pedal to the z-bar, homemade adjustable rod going from z-bar to clutch fork, stock pivots with new bushings, stock resurfaced flywheel, stock clutch fork, rebuilt wide ratio top loader 4 speed, hurst competition plus shifter bought in the early 80's with new bushings in the linkage. So far changing up the geometry by drilling the new hole in my pedal down lower has cured my problem. We will see this weekend, going to cruising the coast in Biloxi, MS.

Thanks for all the input guys,

Drew