Replacing rear quarters 1969 Mustang

[det0326 179]

I have a 69 Mach I and am now about to start replacing the rear quarters.

Taillight panel, rear cross member that makes the rear ledge for the gas tank, trunk corners and filler panel behind the rear glass. I aligned the doors to the old quarters before I removed them and aligned the deck lid to the old quarters. I have already put the wheel housing in place and have trial fitted the quarters on and it all seems to line up good.

Now for my question. In order to do some of the work to the rear of the car I removed the rear end and axel housing out of the way for easier access . I now have the car supported on the front rails right behind the motor mounts and the rear supported under each rear torque box. Will the body seems be different when the car is supported there as opposed to it sitting on all four wheels. This car has no engine or transmission so there is not a lot of weight on it. Is there other places I should support the car or should I put all wheels back on before welding the quarters and related parts on? Thanks in advance for all responses. BTW I am replacing the trunk drop-offs too but they along with the wheel housings are in place and tacked welded which as I said above all looks good. Forgot to mention that these are full quarters not patch panels I have the quarters loose at the roof line.

thanks

Edited August 19, 2013 by det0326
forgot to mention something

[manley 13]

It sounds like you are doing it right. I didn't put any weight on my car. I don't think it should change any when it's all put together.

 

One bit of advice I have is to test fit your quarter extensions. I had to push the bottom rear of the quarter in order to match the contours of the extension and the quarter. Also, this will be critical in establishing the proper fitment of your rear valance, so have it handy for test fitting also. Keep the doors on and the rear deck lid.

[PaleRider 12]

I did mine on my 66 with engine and drivetrain on. Once I put everything back together still lines up good. Make sure you check your back valance for fit before welding. Also make sure trunk area is square. - just measure diagonlly accross - trunk. Good luck

[MikeStang 247]

I have a few videos on YouTube....look in our How to forum for a linkey

[latoracing 256]

Take measurements of everything before you tear it apart. Some of the after market parts are close to stock, but might be off a little, and cause problems. I have replaced the entire rear of my '70 FB, except for the rear frame rails, and half of the trunk transition. I still have it up on jack stands, just used some extra bracing here and there, along with checking the measurements frequently. I also screwed the entire rear of the car together with sheet metal screws before I welded anything permanent, to check the fit of the various parts. Take your time, measure and check before major trimming, or welding. It will be like new in no time.

[det0326 179]

Thanks for all the replies guys. You all are awesome it is always

good to here from people who have already did this and point out

areas to pay close attention to. Thanks again and I'm sure I will have more questions as I progress farther with the build. I have already took some pictures and plan on taking more and will post later .

[bomccorkle 12]

Clecos are worth their weight in gold for panel replacement/panel fab

[latoracing 256]

Clecos are worth their weight in gold for panel replacement/panel fab

 

Having a background from the avation industry, Clecos are a great way to temp. install a part, or pannel. The only problem I have had with them (cars or planes) is the spring type do not have alot of clamping force. We used a "draw" type for the parts that needed the extra clamping. (Cleco with a bolt and wing nut instead of a spring and pliers) I have gotten into the self tapping screws more over the years, as they are cheep, if you weld one, you are out little $, and they are smaller, easier to weld around. I still use my clecos every now and then (1/8" type) but not that often.

 

By the way, welcome to the Forum!

[manley 13]

I used 1/2" sheetmetal screws, C-clamps, and vise grips to hold everything in place while I tweaked the fitment. With the doors, etc, bolted on and aligned before I ever cut the quarters, I was able to line everything up really well. In order to test fit the rear valance, you will have to trim off the extra length of the trunk dropoffs if you replaced them.

[det0326 179]

thanks again guys for all the great information. I temp. put the leaf springs back on and just used a three inch tube I had to mount the shock brackets back on and supported under the brackets and manley is right

there is not a lot of change in body lines supporting from where I had it and supporting the weight from the springs. So I am continuing on.

I have welded the wheel housings on solid. Drivers side rocker panel where the quarter attaches needed some repair, so I address that issue and now in the process of putting the quarters, tail light panel and related parts back on. Get all of this aligned and will be ready to weld it. All the replies

from you guys makes it easier for the not so experienced to do the job correctly. Thanks so much

[Mike65 475]

I used 1/2" sheetmetal screws, C-clamps, and vise grips to hold everything in place while I tweaked the fitment. With the doors, etc, bolted on and aligned before I ever cut the quarters, I was able to line everything up really well. In order to test fit the rear valance, you will have to trim off the extra length of the trunk dropoffs if you replaced them.

 

I did the same when replacing the quarter skins & outer wheel houses on my 69 Coupe. Made sure everything lined up before welding anything.

[MikeStang 247]

 

Here is the link on youtube to get you to my 8 part video collection from when I did my quarter for the 1st time...Im no professional and Im sure some of the other members can correct some of my wrong doings lol, but its a good visual aid I have been told.

Good luck

Mike

[69SlowResto 19]

Hey Mike and Mike,

 

What are you guys using to cut the quarters?

 

Cheers

 

Lee

[MikeStang 247]

I used some type of multi tool thing a friend of mine loaned me....He worked for a place that did bathroom retrofit showers....the tool would cut wood, plastic, metal , and all with equal ease...Its on my video in part #1.

Refer to link in above post...

You can also use a 4" angle grinder with thin cut off wheels.

[Mike65 475]

 

I used the cut off tool that is laying on top of the quarter panel in this pic which is a Craftsman #-875 with 4" cut off discs.

[69SlowResto 19]

I used some type of multi tool thing a friend of mine loaned me....He worked for a place that did bathroom retrofit showers....the tool would cut wood, plastic, metal , and all with equal ease...Its on my video in part #1.

Refer to link in above post...

You can also use a 4" angle grinder with thin cut off wheels.

 

Perfect...the tool is called an Oscillating Tool. I actually have several of them and lots of blades. I'll do some test cuts to check it out. Thanks for the response.

 

Cheers

 

Lee

[69SlowResto 19]

 

I used the cut off tool that is laying on top of the quarter panel in this pic which is a Craftsman #-875 with 4" cut off discs.

 

Excellent. I'm going to do a couple of test cuts with my 4" Cut Off and one of my Oscillating tools and see which one I feel most comfortable with.

 

Thanks

 

Lee

[det0326 179]

Well this is my first but I used 4-1/2" angle grinder with .045 cut off wheels. Worked nicely for me but my quarters were mostly about to fall off from rust. I found it best to cut the quarter in 3 or 4 pieces. I think it might have been mikestang in one of his videos, that I watched, mentioned this. Works nicely. Got both my quarters, tail light panel, rear cross piece and trunk corners back on today for the humpteenth time.

Still measuring and checking everything out so for it looks good. If I don't

find anything wrong tomorrow I guess I will start welding.

Thanks again guys for all the help.

Dave

[det0326 179]

Hi again guys

 

I have a question, I know that the rear window filler goes over the quarter panel lip in the trunk area but I'm not sure about where the rear window filler area, where the filler meets the quarter panel lip in the rear window area. Does it go on top of the quarter window lip are under it?

Mine was so rusted out I could not really tell when I removed it.

I've never posted pictures on here before but I will try to.

Maybe it will make more sense than me trying to explaining it.

Well I tried several time to upload a picture must be doing something wrong. Any help will be appreciated . thanks

[latoracing 256]

Filler panel goes over the quarter panel lip.

 

 

Pass. side, looking forward. Hope this helps.

[det0326 179]

Filler panel goes over the quarter panel lip.

 

 

Pass. side, looking forward. Hope this helps.

thanks latoracing that helps a lot thanks. then the filler seam where it meets the quarter should be welded together too. I did not know that either, because again mine was so rotted could not tell. This car was really bad in the trunk area front not so bad. thanks again .

[latoracing 256]

The seam is not normally welded, usually seam sealed. There are tabs under that area that are spot welded, and quite fun to get to. I am one of those kind of people who weld the body seams shut, then grind lines in the welds to look like seam sealer. Just a preference, defiantly not stock.

[det0326 179]

Hey Guys

 

What are all of you using for the body seam where the quarter meets the roof. I know that lead was used at the factory but they now have the lead free stuff. Does any one know if this is as good or better than the lead?

I also know that the lead free is more of a safety thing but I was more concerned about the quality of the lead free more than anything else.

Or are you guys using something else. Thanks for any response

Dave

[det0326 179]

anybody have any advise?

[manley 13]

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12996