Opinion on hp.

[c.read 10]

Hey everyone,

 

This is my first post I just joined. I am about to buy a 1969 Mustang coupe and it does not have a motor or transmission it is pretty much a rolling body. I plan to restore it to my dream muscle car. I was wanting to build something that is fast. I was looking for a motor with like 600hp but I am second guessing it now. I want to have enough hp to lift the front tires and have fun at the track but I still want to be able to drive it to work once or twice a week. I am not too worried about the cost but at the same time I am not made of money. I do plan on getting a street/strip transmission. I have been reading to lift the front wheels on a vehicle it normally takes about 600 ft lbs of torque. I am just wanting some of yall's opinion. I dont want to come off as some little kid that is all about horse power because I want this to be a good driver too.

[rwcstang 201]

if money is not an issue with you, go with a built coyote 5.0 or 4.6 termy motor. Im sure youll have the tq and reliability (which is a plus).

[MikeStang 247]

Don't have to have that kinda torque to lift the wheels....

I have a 4000lb car making 500ftlbs at the wheels and it will do it

To make an honest 500-550hp your gonna be about 6k into the motor when it's all said and done with...

500 is all one can really put to good use IMHO...you want drag car power with 2013 car drive ability sounds like LOL

[c.read 10]

Lol.

I want power more or less. But its not like im taking this car around curves at 90mph. I was just reading that if you get too much horse power it can make it hard for the car to idle and can cause you to loose traction by having to much power to the wheels.

[c.read 10]

rwcstang: I like your wheel and tire combo what are they?

[c.read 10]

Will a 340 HP get up and go? I live in Texas and the Highway speed limit is 75mph some places and in my truck I feel like I have to beg it to go 80mph

[rwcstang 201]

rwcstang: I like your wheel and tire combo what are they?

 

They are fr500s wheels from a 99-04 mustang

[sportsroof69 13]

Easily done. I drive mine 6000-7000 miles per year, and see sig for results.

[sportsroof69 13]

 

[Max Power 74]

This is probably the first thread I have seen in cruising the history of the internet where someone started a thread to learn about doing wheelies....LOL!

 

All I can think of is Napoleon Dynamite asking if that bike does sweet jumps...LOL!

[sportsroof69 13]

Lol....true. In all honesty, I've done work to try and keep mine down. There was a pass earlier this year when it was tetering on going too far up. No fun on stock suspension.

[Machspeed 219]

This is probably the first thread I have seen in cruising the history of the internet where someone started a thread to learn about doing wheelies....LOL!

 

All I can think of is Napoleon Dynamite asking if that bike does sweet jumps...LOL!

 

LOL.....and we know what happened to Napoleon after his sweet jump....he broke some nuts!

Edited August 11, 2013 by Machspeed

[maxum96 32]

You wanna make 600hp and lift the wheels on a budget? Here's how ya do it,

 

 

I'm somewhere around 550hp-600hp at the crank naturally aspirated. I bought my motor from the previous owner unfired. I have receipts showing around $12,000 he paid to have the motor built about 5-6 years ago. Sportsroof69 and I have motors that are very similar and I bet he spent somewhere around that same amount. He's yanking the front wheels up and running into the 9's because he's running nitrous (although I'd be willing to bet he can yank the wheels off the the bottle). That's major horsepower to break into the 9's in a street car. I haven't had my car on the drag strip yet, but I'm shooting for low 11's (maybe a high 10 if I get lucky) quarter mile at sea level.

 

And it's not just the motor. You have to have a transmission set up for it. I run a TKO with a scattershield. You'd better have a stout driveline. I have 1350 series solid U-joints and a 3.5" steel driveshaft. And then you'd better have a good rearend. I have a 9" built out of a F-150 housing (thicker steel and stronger design than the car housings) that's backbraced, stronger spring pad perches (ask sportsroof69 about stock perches and drag racing) with 31 spline Moser axles, Daytona pinion support, chomemoly yokes and a Strange Pro Nodular center section.

 

Speed and HP cost money. Someone said you can make 500hp for $6,000. Not unless you plan to use nitrous and do a lot of the work yourself will you make that kind of power for that amount of money. And then you're gonna have to spend a bunch of money to upgrade your drivetrain. Oh, and I almost forgot. Better put in subframe connectors or you'll bend your Mustang up. Unibody cars don't like a lot of power and traction. I actually wrinkled the roof on the 1970 sportsroof in my avatar picture running around 500hp on dragslicks without subframe connectors.

[sportsroof69 13]

^^^ what he said. Mine will get very small daylight under the tires in motor, but you better look closely. I've got an almost identical driveline, but I run an automatic with a transbrake.

[Jimjific 23]

Like the sign say's "Speed's is just a question of money, how fast do you wanna to go?" - Mad Max

 

Bill Thomas, a ford 9" guru from CA used to tell me that his customers would always complain, "Man I broke something when I really hooked up well". Well of course you did, that is when you put the most stress on all of the parts and it is looking for the weakest link.

 

Build for torque and HP will follow is the rule I try to use.

 

Jim

[1969vert 55]

You dont need 600 to jerk the wheels....used to do it in my car with a warmed over 351w...low budget..run 11.74 on pump gas all day long.(on the motor)...but it had a good 9" and a c-4 that would take the punishement..it can be done with lower HP...just some dollars with it...but it is more fun with a bigger motor.....it is nice to pull up to the line and dust almost all street cars...only thing I wish I had is AC...

[sportsroof69 13]

Don't underestimate a stock 9". I ran a bone stock 9" with stock 28 spline axles and a spool for a full season. Now I have Moser 31 spline axles, and a Detroit locker, in an otherwise stock case and pinion support.

 

The only problem I had, was it ripped the spring perches off the rear end housing. I do run Strange 1350 super yokes, and a Strange chromoly driveshaft though.

Edited August 13, 2013 by sportsroof69

[MikeStang 247]

Ummmmm..I beg to differ Maxum, i have receipts and dyno numbers to show 550hp for a few hundred over 6k, have to dig all them out to tell ya down to the penny, but when i added it all up i was blown away by the fact i had spent under my planned 8k...

Now if you bought everything brand new and top of the line Yeah your gonna be 10k in it...

I bought AFR 210 N2O ported heads that were never run but used since they were bolted on a motor....only paid 1,500 so that saved a chunk,

Block is a 95 model 351w so i used stock style roller lifters and had a custom cam cut to match the flow #s we got when we flowed the heads...used Eagle I-beam rods...should have went with H-beam...didn't think I was gonna hit 500hp much less 550....pistons are He if I recall....got a used intake, used my 950 Carb etc....

So Yeah if you Just go out and splurge and buy off the shelf for everything you will pay premium for it....but if you spend some time shopping u can do Good.

Look at the rear hp numbers i posted earlier.

This guy can build a little 393/408 and toss on some cheap Patriot heads and Good Carb, etc....anddshould make 350 hp easily enough..

I will tell the OP this much...400rwhp isnt a huge amount of power to slot of us, but 400hp at the wheels will motivate a 69 pretty damn Good.He'll before we did heads and can swap he was running Stock cast iron heads, smaller cam and crappy carb and i pushed the poor little thing to 12.60s ...I didn't believe that was possible with stock heads on that kinda budget build and a small cam.

[sportsroof69 13]

You don't need H beams for an engine like that. Mine is making North of 700 on I beams, and the I beams are lighter. I've got a cast crank too. I've said before, and I'll stick to it. A peak number on a dyno doesn't mean much in the way of performance, and trying to put a horsepower goal on what it takes to pull the front tires won't get you far either. Power under the curve accellerates a car, and as far as pulling the front tires, hooking it up is what does that.

 

I went to a dyno day last month, and mine made under 400 rwhp on motor, and has been into the 10s on motor. Dyno numbers mean squat.

[MikeStang 247]

I totally agree with ya sports roof....Numbers dont mean much, its the time slips that prove it all.

I dynoed my old beater 455 Pontiac....it made 300hp at the wheels and 500 ft.lbs of torque.....It hooks, pulls the front tires and has awesome 60' times but only runs 12.70 on the motor....The torque gets it moving like mad, and when it gets up out of the torque curve there isnt much HP with work with and you can tell it by the times and driving the car....Once it hits 3rd gear, it kinda just planes out and your along for the ride with no excitement....If i'm gonna get out run at the track, this is where it usually happens LOL.

Prime example....I ran a newer model GT 500 a few years back.....Completley decimated him till about half track, at which time I could hear the familiar whine of that little roots super charger, and he walked by me like I was standing still LOL....

ITs all a matter of the intended use and selecting a good combination of parts...

Glad to know that the I-beams will be ok....I also have the cast crank....The rods are supposed to only be rated at like 500 -550 hp....I think they under rate them to provide a margin of safety lol....

I was a bit scared when we sprayed the motor on the Dyno, even tho it was only a 125hp shot....we hit it on one pull and it made 666 ft.lbs and 659 hp...its funny the torque jumped from 597 @ 4500 rpm to 640@4600, then to 663@4700, then it only increased like 5-8 ftlbs over the next few hundred rpm's.....The dyno guy was wanting to tune on it for the nitrous...I was using a little top shot kit on my HP950 and we just pulled 2 degrees of timing and the AFR showed pig rich, so there was a good bit more power to be had, but I didnt want to risk it...I kinda figured if 550 hp wont do the job and Im desperate on a street run then I will push the button, if not well that blue bottle will just sit there and look pretty haha

[MikeStang 247]

Sportsroof....How the hell did your car make under 400 hp on the dyno?

was it blowing the tires off the rollers?

Some one was not doing something right or the dyno wasnt calibrated correctly...what kinda torque did it make?

[sportsroof69 13]

Sportsroof....How the hell did your car make under 400 hp on the dyno?

was it blowing the tires off the rollers?

Some one was not doing something right or the dyno wasnt calibrated correctly...what kinda torque did it make?

 

Torque was low 400s

 

 

It made a low number on the rollers because a loose converter masks numbers on a chassis dyno. It makes more than that, but so many things affect chassis dyno numbers. Track times tell the real story.