Grounding Kits

[LiLMike 42]

Has anybody used any of the grounding kits that are available out there? I haven't really researched them but I have seen quite a few while looking for other things. I'm not sure if they would be of any benefit or just a waste of time & money. Also what about those bare wire grounding straps verses a heavy cable? What have you guys used?

[FrozenMonkey 12]

I was thinking about this last night. While trying (unsuccessfully) to put on my export brace I found the ground wire for my engine. A maybe 10 gauge wire from the passenger side head to the firewall. Is this the stock wire or location? All the cars I've owned have had a strap like LilMike is referring to.

[LiLMike 42]

I had about an 8 or 10 gauge in the same location. I'm assuming that is pretty close to being stock. Since I want to mount my amp in the trunk I will need a good ground back there. I was thinking of using a grounding kit along with making sure the chassis had a good ground also. Maybe an overkill but with all the ground issues I have read about, that might not be a bad idea.

[bomccorkle 12]

I have always bared a spot of steel and mounted 2 or 0 ga stereo wire to for a ground (stereo wire such as stinger has a higher strand count and is way more flexible and pretty) not stock appearing but looks good after you paint over your bared spot and works well.

[LiLMike 42]

That is a great idea Bomccorkle. I am interested in the grounding kits to insure I have a proper ground throughout.

[cavboy78 28]

I just wired up my other car with an amp and power inverter through a power distribution block in the rear using the cables from knu konceptz (found them on Amazon). Great quality, thickness, and flexibility for the money. I have some grounding and power cable leftover I am going to use on the stang when I try to clean up some wiring this winter.

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=KCA%20Kable

[danno 128]

The knukonceptz is copper clad aluminum wire. I would be reluctant to use this. The reason they use aluminum is because copper is expensive. aluminum is cheap. Using dissimilar metals to carry electrical current can create all sorts of problems. They might have the dissimilar wire problem fixed, but is it worth the risk of it? Aluminum is also not as good of a conductor, to you need a larger wire for the same current. I know of huge problems homebuilders had in the 1970's when they tried to use aluminum wire in houses. They finally figured the pain of using it was not worth the cost savings. I would avoid it if I want a wire that will last 20 years.

 

Plain old copper or tin plated copper is tried and true. A speaker type of heavy wire would be fine, #6 or # 8 guage should be fine. Number 8 wire is UL rated ( very conservatively) at 40 amps, and a realistic number for autos is 50% more. Most things in your car that use the electrical current really do not require that much. I added it all up and posted a discussion about real electrical current required a few years ago.

 

Speaker wire generally does not have an insulator that can handle the heat of an engine, so although the wire is fine, the insulation might not last. Not that you need insulation, as it is only a ground wire. Insulation does stop or slow down oxidation and corrosion, so for the minimal extra cost, get it insulated.

 

i looked at Musangs Unlimited, and they pretty much have just the factory stuff, and they do not say the wire size. With all the added options, the factory wire size might not be enough. You might need to check a few more options, but maybe I gave you things to think about?

[Wycked69 20]

I typically just go to my local Oreily's to the battery cable section and get a universal negative ground cable about 16" long with a lug on each end and bolt one end to the block below and behind the alternator and the other end I attach to the front frame rail. Its clean and you can get most any variety of length from 9" to 48"

 

2/0 Welding cable makes great ground wire as well due to the fine multi strand wire and SJO jacket. Very flexible.

[cavboy78 28]

I don't have a problem using the CCA on my cars as long as you understand the need to use a larger gauge than a pure copper cable. I will be using my leftover 1/0 for my ground and am sure it will work fine.

[LiLMike 42]

I guess the general consensus is just use some good ground cable and make sure you have a good chassis ground. I was looking at a grounding kit like this and wondered if it would be worthwhile or not:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360538267114?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_4348wt_1255

[miketyler 15]

I too need to enlist some additional grounding. I always thought the braided ground strap was preferred, maybe because it offers more conductors?

[Midlife 814]

I too need to enlist some additional grounding. I always thought the braided ground strap was preferred, maybe because it offers more conductors?

Nope: cheaper to manufacture since you don't need molding or insulation along the wire for ground lines.

[buening 63]

I have the braided ground strap from the block to the front frame rails, with the solenoid and battery relocated to the trunk and the negative cable running a 4ga to the rear frame rails. If I can run 600a+ without a hiccup with ground running through the body, surely you would be fine with anything you put on the car as long as it is a decent gauge. I know its not ideal what I'm doing, but have not had a single issue with grounding and the less wires I have running through the rockers/sills the better! Nothing in my car is voltage sensitive (like EFI cars), and would do something different if I did.

[LiLMike 42]

Thanks Buening, that makes a lot of sense. I appreaciate the help guys. Guess I'll get some good grounding wire and have at it. I'll probably check all the connections and use my dremmel tool to ensure I have a clean connection. Thanks again.

[bomccorkle 12]

And BTW soldered terminals(if you have to add any) make a world of difference

[LiLMike 42]

By all means bomccorkle. Thanks for the heads up.

[bomccorkle 12]

No prob. And also to add the stinger brand stereo wire (I'm not sure of others) is super flexible and if you were to add clippies to hold it up will easily snake anywhere you need. I'd say its at least if not more flexible than 3/8 rubber fuel line even in 2-4 ga. Happy hunting and Remember over wiring/ over grounding is typically not an issue. My local car audio/tacky dealer carried the stinger wire a couple dollars a foot if I remember correctly but YMMV.