Gluing in door glass - specific question on removing original glue

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

Im about to glue in the door glass, but how do you remove the original glue? I've tried epoxy remover (JASCO) on the brackets and it really didnt do anything to it. Didnt soften it up or anything. It seems like the original stuff is like some really hard rubber. I've done searches but havent found anything specific at all on removing the orignal stuff, or atleast, a specific product that worked.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Brian Conway 264]

I chiseled the old stuff out. Using assorted nails, thin screw drivers and a hammer I banged the stuff out. After a few minutes you get the hang of it and it proceeds quickly. Brian

[John69coupe302 10]

The guy that did my dads windows said that he put it in a vice and heated it up with a propane torch and then scraped it out with a putty knife.

[LindenBruce 27]

The guy that did my dads windows said that he put it in a vice and heated it up with a propane torch and then scraped it out with a putty knife.

 

I did the same. Just don't apply to much heat as the brackets are pot metal. Just enough heat to make the glue start to smoke and you can scrape it out easily. B.

[dl69droptop 10]

die grinder with wire wheel

[rangerdoc 22]

All the above...minus the heat...didn't think of that. I found a screwdriver that was just the correct size and I would chisel out about 1/4" at a time.

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

This sucks. Chiseling is not working for me at all. I'd be lucky if it would come out a 1/4 in at a time. I also tried heating it up with a heat gun, that didnt help.

 

I set epoxy remover on there extra thick right now, lets see if that works. There's got to be some sort of acid that would disolve this stuff.

 

I might just use my grinding wheel, but I think i'd be hitting the metal often.

[LindenBruce 27]

A heat gun won't do it. You need an open flame like a propane torch for sweating copper fittings. Don't use anything hotter like a cutting torch as it will heat the metal too fast and you will burn holes in your brackets. Trust me, the open flame will work great. You apply the flame to the metal side as well as the glue side alternating back and forth. As soon as the adhesive begins to bubble scrape away. Just don't heat the metal until its red because it will melt by then because it's pot metal. The glue is like glass and an epoxy remover won't touch it. B.

[69RavenConv 286]

I might just use my grinding wheel, but I think i'd be hitting the metal often.

 

If you're going to use a die grinder, don't use a grinding wheel, it will mangle the pot metal brackets badly. Use a wire wheel like dl69droptop suggested, one designed for paint removal.

 

Otherwise the melt and scrape technique.

 

 

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

Thanks again guys. I spent a couple hours on it today with VERY little progress. I'll either buy a torch tomorrow and see how that works for me, or just take them to a shop to get them media blasted or something.

[Aussie 69er 10]

Thanks again guys. I spent a couple hours on it today with VERY little progress. I'll either buy a torch tomorrow and see how that works for me, or just take them to a shop to get them media blasted or something.

 

Try wd40 it does wonders sometimes

[THE EVIL TW1N 12]

Thanks for the help guys. Took a blow torch and a lot of elbow grease. I got better at removing it to wards the end, was not heating it up quite as much as I should have at first. I then used a stripping wheel to clean up the groove afterward.

 

I got one window glued in and ready! I'll be gluing in the other saturday probably.

[pw520a 19]

leave the old glued spacer in there....it will not come off the shoe, it gives the window the tilt position it needs to have to function properly, simply re glue in with 3m glass varathane. sand your glass where it is to be glued with a barell sander on your drill motor.