DIY Adjustable Strut Rods

[bomccorkle 12]

Good point. Will see what I can come up with

[buening 63]

I attached a PDF on post #5 with the dimensions of what I came up with for the bracket at the LCA. It hasn't been verified, but something to maybe trace onto thick cardboard and check out! I did all the hard work for you ;)

 

That drawing should come out at a 1:1 scale if you print on standard 8.5x11 paper, but verify with a ruler (like the 2.5" measurement of the bolt length into the plate).

 

BTW that drawing is somewhat similar to the Street or Track bracket. I used a picture of his and used my own measurements/drafting to come up with a drawing.

[MikeStang 247]

Where does one get metal Swage tube?

I went to the local race shop and got some of the thick aluminum tube...

I don't think its gonna hold however.

 

I also have a clevis on the Front end where it ties into the strut rod support in the front.

 

I have exact dimensions on a set of one of the big brand units if any of you guys want them....One of Ya'll has to be a machinist with the ability to make these things much cheaper....Especially if you have access to a CNC Machine.

 

Mike

[buening 63]

I personally plan on getting some 7/8" DOM with 0.156" wall. Like here:http://www.ebay.com/itm/370610286733?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

My above PDF drawing uses a 5/8" Gr8 bolt at the LCA, and will use a 5/8" LH thread rod end at the clevis. The DOM tube has 0.563" ID, so you'd just have to drill each end with 37/64" drill bit and tap to the thread size of the bolt and rod end. You'll need both a LH and RH tap, and a LH tap can be found on ebay for less than $20.

I've been slowly working on the design of my clevis, but would be happy to get some of your measurements to compare!

[buening 63]

Otherwise if you don't want that hassle and just want the swedge tube, look at Speedway motors: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/5-8-Inch-Chromoly-Swedged-Tubes,49536.html

[Jimjific 23]

I used 10" tubes from speedway. I have had no problems. I also used a modified clevis that I put on the lathe to clean it up. If I ever get off my ass and get my mill running (Need to buy a three phase converter) I will make my own clevis/washer part.

 

I posted a short video on my gallery page that shows me moving the left lower arm up and down with the sway bar connected to both arms. You can see the right arm moves with it. I was trying to demonstrate how the jointed strut frees up the suspension. Here's a link that should work if you are interested. It's a little dark, but it shows the concept.

http://www.1969stang.com/gallery/Suspension?page=4

 

Jim

[MikeStang 247]

Buening,

Are the Swedge tubes Steel or Aluminum?

I gotta look and see what I have...The aftermarket units my friend has are solid steel

which I am sure would probably hold up better than a hollow swedge tube....Ill get the measurements tonight and send em to you...

[RPM 1,190]

Tubing is stronger than solid rod. An added benefit is they are lighter.

 

Bob

[buening 63]

Tubing is stronger than solid rod. An added benefit is they are lighter.

 

Bob

 

If the same OD is used for both a tribe and solid rod, the solid rod would be stronger but heavy. Its not until you get very long sections in which the weight of the solid rod exceeds its bending strength would the tube be stronger.