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57 minutes ago, RPM said:

Your dad sounds like someone could hang out with.

Yeah Grandpa was a pretty cool guy.  He's been gone a long time though.  Here he is from between when the last photo was taken and maybe 5-6 years prior.  Again not sure of what year.  Early 80s maybe end of the 70s.  Pretty nice T-bird no?  Looks the same today in my Uncles Garage.


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Tuning tuning tuning.  

Car was running pretty good but had a small stumble on take off, a rich idle, and a couple places in the throttle where things would lean out a little on the AFR (15-15.5).  Finally figured it out.  Needed to change from a 6.5 to a 5.5 power valve and reset the idle mixture.  Once I did the difference was huge.  I left the 6.5 in after using a vacuum gauge and getting 13-14 lbs at idle in drive.  But I didn't drive around and average the reading.  What I found is when I get on the throttle the vacuum would drop a lot then get stronger once the RPMs climbed again.  I believe the PV was opening and dumping gas when the engine didn't need it.  I'm pretty sure I had the idle circuit lean and when the PV closed as the RPMs climbed I would get lean right before the secondaries opened.  It also had a weird lean spot at 1/4 throttle before for some reason.

So new PV, up one step on the front jets, reset the idle circuit.  Still idles a little rich and when I take my foot off the gas while driving.  But I stay in a nice 12.5 - 14.5 on the AFR through the entire acceleration curve now.  The stumble is gone, now the I just have a 1/2 second hesitation on initial take off.  But I'm pretty sure that is because I changed the accelerator pump cam to a less aggressive one.  So I'll swap that back and see what happens.

I guess the moral of the story - use a Vacuum gauge, drive around, and get an average vacuum reading to set your PV.  Reading plugs and an AFR won't do everything for you.

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Ahh.... As they say WINTER IS COMING... in fact we've had four snow falls already this year already.   So right now my transmission is out and getting rebuilt with some stronger components and my car is not in the garage to play with.  But I'm trying to plan out my winter projects.  I've skipped working on the car all summer because it was working well enough to drive it (until the tranny went out on the last drive of the season). 


I've already got most the parts.  Focus is front end.  Rollerize/adjusterize everything and put in a steering rack.  Also replace the master cylinder and double check the MC push rod clearance (the brakes don't engage until I press the pedal 1/2 or more of the way down).  Anyway just for fun I put down my hopeful to do list.  We'll see how far I can get before April.


Project Estimated Time Plus 50% Rework, causing other issues, and Problem Solving Parts Ordered Parts Received Comments
Drivers door wiring harness 3-4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes  
New Brake Master Cylinder 5 Hours 7.5 hours Yes Yes Need to adjust the push rod, purge the fluid, and bleed
Roller Spring Perches 2 Hours 3 hours Yes Yes  
Roller LCA 2 Hours 3 hours Yes Yes  
Adjustable Strut Rods 3-4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes  
Repair/replace horn steering wheel/column contacts 3-4 hours 6 hours No No Need to inspect parts once steering wheel is off
Paint Steering Column 2 hours 3 hours Yes Yes  
Unisteer Power Rack and Pinion 10 hours 15 hours Yes Yes  
Repair Thermostat Leak 30 min 1 hour Yes Yes  
Del-A-Lum Rear spring bushings 2-3 hours 4.5 hours No No  
Detail "Mustang" and "Grande' " Emblems 1 hour 1.5 hours No No Had a black Paint Marker can't find it now
Front shoulder Upper seat belt Cover 30 min 1 hour Yes Yes Miss placed, step 1 find the part
Front shoulder Lower seat belt install 1.5 hours 2.5 hour No No  
Trouble shoot Cigarette lighter 1-100 hours 150 hour No No Hoping this is somehow related to isse with door wiring and will go away once that harness is replaced.
Paint Grill 4 hours 6 hours Yes Yes  

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