Meet Virginia

[Vicfreg 771]

I would do the 3:55.   .     If you are not running an overdrive, the 3:80 will keep your RPMs high  on the highway.   I have 3.73s in my 1968 with a 5 speed, and it is a really good combination.  

 

From strictly a gearhead perspective, The gear ratios that have a common factor (the ring gear to pinion gear ratio have a common number) tend to make more noise.   The 3:55 to 1 will usually have a ring gear with 39 teeth and a pinion gear with 11 teeth.  (no common factor).  I have not seen a 3:80  gear ratio, but my assumption is that it would have 38 ring gear teeth, and 10 pinion gear teeth, the common factor for that ratio is 2. So, more noise, if that matters.

 

Also, check your engine rpm with your tire size and the different rear end ratios.   You will want to compare your engine rpm in each transmission gear with the different gear ratio and tire sizes to make sure you are within the torque band your camshaft.  This will also determine if your stall speed is correct.  Otherwise you may "bog" off the line, or feel "slip" at highway speeds.

 

The TCI and B&M websites have good info on the torque converter sizing considerations.

 

Nice car, I love that you kept the vinyl top....good luck!

[MN69Grande 203]

I would do the 3:55.   .     If you are not running an overdrive, the 3:80 will keep your RPMs high  on the highway.   I have 3.73s in my 1968 with a 5 speed, and it is a really good combination.  

 

From strictly a gearhead perspective, The gear ratios that have a common factor (the ring gear to pinion gear ratio have a common number) tend to make more noise.   The 3:55 to 1 will usually have a ring gear with 39 teeth and a pinion gear with 11 teeth.  (no common factor).  I have not seen a 3:80  gear ratio, but my assumption is that it would have 38 ring gear teeth, and 10 pinion gear teeth, the common factor for that ratio is 2. So, more noise, if that matters.

 

Also, check your engine rpm with your tire size and the different rear end ratios.   You will want to compare your engine rpm in each transmission gear with the different gear ratio and tire sizes to make sure you are within the torque band your camshaft.  This will also determine if your stall speed is correct.  Otherwise you may "bog" off the line, or feel "slip" at highway speeds.

 

The TCI and B&M websites have good info on the torque converter sizing considerations.

 

Nice car, I love that you kept the vinyl top....good luck!

 

Didn't see this comment till today!  Thanks the advice.  I actually built an excel sheet that give me all the RPMs from all the different gear ratios.  I think I am going to go with the 3.55 but that is a few months off.  They want real money for the limited slip stuff.  Also I'm putting an overdrive so essentially what I'll end up with the OD + 3.55 is the same RPM range at the same speed more or less but with the extra giddy up.

[MN69Grande 203]

A little update.. Were back up and running for the season (I hope).  But there was one last hiccup I didn't record here.  In march I had everything back together and a solid plan for a couple other upgrades.  Then I connected the battery and.... SMOKE!!!  I tried to get the cable off as fast as possible but it was too late.  Damage done.  Long story short, putting the lower dash on I cut/rubbed off/ exposed the main power feed to the ignition switch.  Boom melted wire from the switch to the battery both the underdash and engine harness kaput.

 

Fyi a couple years ago I replaced my slightly melty and completely corroded pigtail with the Scott Drake.  This was the wire that became exposed (I feel too easily).

http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-ignition-switch-wiring-pigtail-1968-1969/p/HW3125/  

 

Anyway after a couple weeks of hand ringing and looking into the options I sent the harness into Midlife.  Who agreed and said it was kaput.  He nicely and extremely quickly got me one from his donor pile.  It came in great shape.  http://midlifeharness.com/welcome.html 

 

I got the engine harness and firewall plug from CJPony: http://www.cjponyparts.com/headlight-wiring-harness-from-firewall-1969/p/WHL6A/ 

 

And surprisingly it only took a couple hours to replace them both.  But it was a couple hours over a few weeks.  While I was at it I also moved and accessory fuse panel, ran new after market gauge wires, and the wiring for the power windows adding another weekend of work.

 

So probably 6 weeks later I was back to where I thought I was in late March.  Now I have a couple weird things going on with the side marker lights and door marker lights, but I haven't done any troubleshooting since I wanted to drive.  Next up dropping the 2 inch exhaust in favor of 2.5.  The last motor was already choking on the 2 inch this stroker certainly doesn't like it.  Then in August/ September if all things go well I'll get a new 3rd member and install the Gear Vendors.

[MN69Grande 203]

Well things are moving on.  I figured the 2 inch exhaust was choking the 347 so I dropped the car off yesterday at the exhaust shop.  I think exhaust shops, like the parts store, or  speed shop is one of the most dangerous places for a motor head to go.  So many fun things to buy.  Anyway So far they built a custom 2.5 inch h-pipe and we test fitted a few different mufflers.  I used to run dual 50 series flow masters.  I really like the Magnaflows but figured my kids wouldn't want to ride around with those in there.  So I either did something really smart or really stupid.  I picked Dynomax VT mufflers. Which I never heard of before.  They are quieter at idle and cruising then the 50s but nearly as loud as the Magnaflows when laying on the throttle.  They seem to get mixed reviews so we'll see.

 

http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/dynomax-vt-mufflers

 

 

[MN69Grande 203]

Also for anyone in MN, Tim's in Coon Rapids is great.  Everyone there is a huge gear head and its almost worth going in just to hear there stories.  So far a great experience.  Of course I don't have the bill yet.

[RPM 1,190]

Looks nice! Cute pic of the girls, but isn't there still an unwritten rule about not taking females to a mechanic type shop? Or does that start when they near the teenage years?

[MN69Grande 203]

Looks nice! Cute pic of the girls, but isn't there still an unwritten rule about not taking females to a mechanic type shop? Or does that start when they near the teenage years?

I figure if I do my job right and Tomboy them up a bit it'll be alright. I'm even hoping in a few years I can get them interested in a father daughter project. So they come to the shops, parts stores, swaps, cars and coffee, and shows with me. When they get bigger and don't need car seats I'll take them on weekend rides. That's the kind of stuff I did with my grandpa and loved it. I noticed the team mustang girl stuff at mustang monthly so I thought I'd start showing that stuff to.

[MN69Grande 203]

Here is a couple pics with the mufflers on.  I'll try and get a video up later.  I certainly feel the difference driving.  The other exhaust was choking the engine at the low end.  More toque wohoo.  

[MN69Grande 203]

Not able to leave well enough alone I wasn't liking the cooling in the car with the new motor.  It was running 188 - 195 regardless of 160 or 180 T-Stat.  So I had a smaller water pump pulley on the car and read a few people had issues with this moving the water too fast through the system.  So I switched to an Under-drive Pulley.  Yeap I skipped trying to find a stock diameter pulley because the bolt pattern being the updated bolt pattern and the pulley being 3 groove.

 

Well this had the opposite effect.  I'm now running 193 - 200+.  The radiator is the 24 inch and brand new (copper 3 core).  These temps aren't horrible but in stop and go traffic the temps keep rising, I've seen 205 but haven't pushed my luck.

 

So I figured why not do an electric fan.  I picked up a contour fan assembly from a junk yard for $20.  It's amazing how well it fits.

I also bought some angled aluminum for $3, new connectors off the internet for $18, a can of black high temp paint for $5, some 5/16 fuel line for $3, and some nuts and bolts for $5.  

 

Next I took a rotary tool and ground off all the original mounting tabs.  I've seen them used, but just wanted to try something different.  I also cut the angled aluminum into 2 pieces the length of the radiator.  I then drilled holes in the shroud and aluminum to mount the bracket,  Next I cut the fuel line down the middle and used it on the edges of the fan shroud to create a softer edge against the radiator.  I also painted the aluminum black.

 

Now I'm just waiting on the Fan Controller from DCC.  I got the email that it ships tomorrow so hopefully the wife will let me alone this weekend to work on the car.

 

I'm also going to put in a 3G alternator using the PA Performance conversion kit.

[MN69Grande 203]

A week ago I did the 130amp 3G alternator upgrade.  I did this prior to finishing the Contour fan so there would be enough juice to add 20+ amps of draw.  Today I tested the engine with the new Alternator and it ran great the PA Performance kit made it a snap.  The only hiccup is the alternator I got didn't have a threaded mount so I had to buy an bolt and nut that went all the way through.  

 

I also did the Rocketman Voltmeter upgrade at the same time and it works great.  Though I will say the new alternator is putting out so many volts the needle is pegged until I turn almost all of the accessories.

 

Today I pulled the mechanical fan and shroud, and installed and wired the electric fan.  Hopefully I can test it tomorrow.

[MN69Grande 203]

Whoo... New third member is on it's way.  Hello True Track.  I guess I'll have to wire up the control module for the Gearvendor's so I can install both the O/D and the rear end at the same time.

[MN69Grande 203]

Took me a while to final make a video of the new exhaust.  It's a ton of fun on the road.  Nice and subdued until you stand on it then explosive.  These Dynomax VTs are a lot of fun.

 

[MN69Grande 203]

Last couple weeks the Mustang has been having sleepovers at the local shop associated with Gear Vendors.   A used Gear Vendors units I picked up from CL.   I wrote up a lot about that install here:

 

http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55666-gear-vendors-installed/#entry187077

 

I also had the 3rd member installed at the same time.  I didn't put it out there in the previous post but I did want to mention who I got the 3rd member from.  I worked with Terry Todd at ttodd21@hotmail.com or 812-749-4308.  I ordered the unit and received in a week.  He was easy to work with and so no problems though it is pretty new.  I saw some posts on VMF that also recommended him.

 

One thing that was pain is I had to get the exhaust I just installed in July modified to clear the Gear Vendors.  It wasn't that much money but it is another lesson in order of operations.  

 

The drive home was a bit of an adventure though as the car was smoking like you wouldn't believe.  A big ploom of whitish smoke followed me down the high way.  The faster I went the bigger cloud was generated.  The other cars on the road were giving me a WIDE berth.  I pulled over stuck my head under the car and sure enough there was transmission fluid all over that fresh exhaust.  I checked the dipstick and the transmission was way over filled.  Luckily I was only a few miles from the transmission shop that installed the gear vendors.  So I took side roads slowly to the shop, they used a pump to pull the excess fluid out, cleaned the bottom of the car, and we went out for a test drive.  No more smoke, no problem.

 

I wish it had been a warmer day and I had a full tank of gas because I didn't really get to test the new setup.  Winter is just starting and I can't wait till Spring.

[Vicfreg 771]

I am really interested to hear how you like that Gear Vendors set up.  I have a C-6 going into my 1970 'Vert, and I want to use that set up.  Wasn't clear to me how to change gears on the fly while upshifting, looked like you need to hit the switch while you are shifting.  Any feedback would be appreciated.

[MN69Grande 203]

I am really interested to hear how you like that Gear Vendors set up.  I have a C-6 going into my 1970 'Vert, and I want to use that set up.  Wasn't clear to me how to change gears on the fly while upshifting, looked like you need to hit the switch while you are shifting.  Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

So the way it works is there are 2 switches.  A toggle switch that switches from Manual mode to Automatic and a floor dimmer style switch.  In Automatic the GV switches gears when in 3rd around 45/50 mph depending on level of acceleration.  In Manual mode it does nothing until util A. you are above a certain speed and B. you click the floor button.  Depending on the rear end you run it probably isn't useful in 1st.  But you could manual go 1 - 2 - 2o - 3 - 3o by starting with the Transmission selector in 1 GV off, then pushing into 2, then clicking the button, then push into 3 and click the button again, then click one more time for 3o. 

 

They have a button that mounts to the transmission selector but I'm not sure it works with Mustangs.  It would replace the handle I believe. I'm going to call them and see if I can use a motorcycle accessory switch clamped to my stock transmission selector because I don't want a second floor button.  Right now I would probably just be running in automatic mode anyway. 

[Angel 24]

Car sounds great man!

[MN69Grande 203]

Well winter is in full swing up here in the North.  So it's time for winter projects on the car.  Today I made a little change.  Of course I can't test it for 3 months but what the hey.   I pulled the carb off the car (Holley 4150 650cfm Vac Sec) and put a Vacuum Spring Quick change kit on. 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-59

 

I didn't change the spring (which is the plain colored one) yet but once it warms up and I can drive, then I should be able to test a few out much more easily now.  I also swapped the 6.5 Power Valve out for a 7.5.  The car starts and idles a little rich (low-mid 12s on the AFR) and then leans out under partial throttle (mid 15s on the AFR) then goes rich again on WOT.  So I'm hoping a power valve will correct the lean condition in partial throttle since this is where most cruising takes place.  Once I see how the PV performs I'll move on to playing with springs to open the secondary sooner.

 

 

[MN69Grande 203]

Next couple winter projects down.  

 

Radiator upgraded to Aluminum with 1.25 tubing. 

 

Also moved the AFR from the console pod to a column mount.  I've had a Sunpro micro tac for a while and thought it might be cool to mount the AFR in the same manor on the opposite side of the column.  I'm pretty happy with how it came out.  I ended up ordering a second Sunpro Micro on sale for $20 dollars and gutting to put the AFR in, that way the mounting pods would be identical.  Column mounts run $20-$30 on Summit anyway.  All it too was trimming a rubber gasket it fit.  I didn't even pull the internals out of the AFR just slipped the whole gauge in.  I also put the lights for the Gear Vendors in the base of the mounts rather than putting holes in the dash, holes in the console, or mounting a new panel some where.  

 

I also put a new Oil Gauge in the console pod where the AFR was.  I find I look at the oil gauge less than the AFR so this should be nice.  Too bad spring is still a long ways off.

[Mike65 475]

Mat,

The new radiator looks great, I am going to be installing the radiator you sold me this weekend. The new exhaust sounds awesome. I like how you mounted the 2 new gauges on the steering column like a 65/66 Mustang rally pac. BTW which fan controller did you use, I want to use an electric fan on my 69 Coupe.

[RPM 1,190]

Real nice work.

[MN69Grande 203]

Little narcissism here.  My Aunt dug up this photo from when I was 7/8 years old at my family's farm (Grandma/Grandpa).  The 1969 Mustang on my left is the one I bought bought from my Grandmother 9 or so years later and that is finally all fixed up(mostly) now in this thread.  To bad the point and shoot camera's in the 80's weren't better.  Not sure what the other car is.  It wasn't my grandfather's.  He usually was driving a mid-sixties Galaxy, some late 70 Lincoln he had, his 1970 Ford 1 ton, or one of the 3 Deere's on the farm.  The 57 T-Bird of course stayed in the garage when not being driven.

 

 

[RPM 1,190]

Sorry pal, that ain't narcissistic. Thanks for sharing that really cool pic of your family history. Looking thru some pics of yours I saw you have Dynomax mufflers. How do you like them? I just switched mine out to them and I'm really happy with them. The price was a pleasant surprise as well.

[MN69Grande 203]

I love the DynoMax VTs.  They really cut the drone down at cruise but have great sound under load.  Also they are decently subdued at idle.  I had flowmaster turbo 50s which were quieter in general but had a drone that really got to me after an hour or so.  Now I feel I have the best of both worlds.  Open it up and you get a nice loud exhaust ease off and it gets more reasonable.

[Machspeed 219]

Awesome Matt, I like stories like yours!  Was your car bought brand new by your grandparents? How old was it in that picture? 

[MN69Grande 203]

On 6/21/2017 at 0:33 PM, Machspeed said:

Awesome Matt, I like stories like yours!  Was your car bought brand new by your grandparents? How old was it in that picture? 

The car was probably 16/17 years old in that pic brand new really.  I thought it was so old when that photo was taken, anything not made in the 80s was ancient.  My kids must think it's an antique now.  My grandparents didn't buy it new.  I assume they were 3rd owners.  My grandpa was a horse trader with cars.  always had a dozen of ever shifting Fords.  Only 2 stayed the whole time I knew him.  A 57 Black T-bird and an 1970 3/4 Ton Ford Truck 'Ranger' addition.  Everything else was up for trade/sale.  In fact I think he traded a 74 Lincoln around 1990 for a new 390 for the Truck.