RobotMan 264 Report post Posted January 20, 2016 Good idea. Thanks for the info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 771 Report post Posted February 2, 2016 There are "key on" hot wires that are only energized when the ignition switch is in the "on" position. (Check your wiring diagram). I used that to power up a new relay that feeds a modern small fuse block that powers all my aftermarket accessories, like the choke, ignition box, audio, tachometer, electric fan controls, etc. On a 1970, like mine, you can supply the power to the fuse block from fuse #4, which is usually not used except if you have emissions controls or throttle solenoid. Or you can use the cigarette lighter wire as the hot feed to the new fuse block. On my 1968, I ran a new # 10 fused power feed directly from my battery to the new fuse block, and used a spare yellow "key on" to energize the relay. It is all hidden. I can post a simple wiring diagram for that if you need it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted February 2, 2016 Those choke heaters can take several amps of current while on, so a relay is the best option. I have a relay that has the coil hooked up to the ignition switch, and I use it to power my solid state ignition, choke heater, and cruise control. Cruise control? Nice, whose do you use? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
demon69 13 Report post Posted March 5, 2016 Hi Danno Why do you use a circuit breaker for the electronic ignition? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
