rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 I have had a 65 coupe project since high school, but kept being set on the back burner because of life. About 5 years ago i was talking with my wife about finishing up the 65. She was excited and wanted me to put together a budget/cost for the car. After realizing the amount of money it was going to take and the value of the car once it was done, the project seemed less exciting. I decided if I were to commit to restoring a mustang it had to be one i really wanted. A 1969 fastback... I started looking around and finally just placed an ad on craigslist. About 2 weeks later a guy called me and said he had one up for sale, but not listed. It was a rolling shell w/o the engine and tranny. He picked it up from a guy who put it in storage back in 1978. This guy pulled the carpet and all the body plugs from the car and set it on blocks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 here is another [ATTACH]13771[/ATTACH]picture of pre purchase Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 I sent off the car to be fully media blasted and etched primed a few months after purchasing my car. I ended up having to purchase new repo door shells, since each original pair i got had major bondo work done. Also the media blasting showed a few smaller areas that needed to be touched up from pin holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Here are a few additional Media blast and etch Primed shots Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 I sent it off the a guy located here in Nebraska to do some sheet metal and rust work for me. The media blasting showed signs of rust behind where the tail lights go. I was told to replace the panel and not to have to worry about future rust hole popping up once you get your paint laid down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 So the passenger side rear quarter panel had some rubbing around the wheel well lip. They went ahead and replace the quarter and the inner drop off panel as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Since i didn't need to spend alot of money on sheet metal work due to the condition of the car. I decided to do a few modifications that stood out to my as eye sores. First is the panel below the rear window of the car. I never understood why it needed to be a seam. Finally the rear lower valance, I have read so many horror stories of fitment. So i bough a repop valance (didn't want to destroy an original panel) and had them weld it to the body of the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 i rented a rotissary from another 69 mustang guy and had the bottom of the car linex. I think it was around $600.00 for the whole underside. Sorry no pictures of my car on this one for some reason. I do however have a few pictures of the another guy who linex his car here in Omaha. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 So i have been in search of a 9" rear and an C9 351W block for my car. I finally found one in an old cougar convertible. bough the 351w C9 complete and 9" rear for $200.00, i had to pull it though. I sent the rear end to get media blasted and then powder coated. The engine is at the machine shop right now getting all the work done to it. Looks like we are going with either a 408 or 418 Stroker, not sure about doing the 4-bold mains though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 So i meet a guy about a year ago and have been stopping by his shop to see his work. I have been nothing but very impressed by his work on each car that came out of his shop. I decided to use him to complete my project, instead of trailering my car back to the first shop. Since it has been their they had to redo 80% of the metal work due to bad welds or alignments. Makes you kinda mad, but glad i didn't return to the same guy and have a half ass job done! Raw body Customs is the shop i am currently using. I had them modify my hood (repop, couldn't cut up an original) with a boss 429 scoop and cut open to make it a functional scoop. This also lets me utilize my super victor jr intake manifold Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Here is the car in their paint booth getting another coat of primer ready for more blocking. They did a great job working the metal and using as little mud as possible on the car. I am just amazed buy their work so far. I am really trying not to go down to his shop on a weekly basis, but is hard. I really need to make sure i get more pictures of the process to share with the forum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawlinss 14 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Looking great. Keep up the good work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 looking good!! great progress! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 Since i didn't need to spend alot of money on sheet metal work due to the condition of the car. I decided to do a few modifications that stood out to my as eye sores. First is the panel below the rear window of the car. I never understood why it needed to be a seam. Finally the rear lower valance, I have read so many horror stories of fitment. So i bough a repop valance (didn't want to destroy an original panel) and had them weld it to the body of the car.Its a separate panel for ease of manufacturing. Sealing the seam was more economical than addition body work to make it look one piece and the location of the seam looks nice. In contrast, the quarter panel and roof seam fill was aesthetically necesseary for the body styling. Its the repops that typically fit like crap due to the variation in body tolerances when manufactured at ford. The engine is at the machine shop right now getting all the work done to it. Looks like we are going with either a 408 or 418 Stroker, not sure about doing the 4-bold mains though.??? Confused on this statement, your block doesn't have 4 bolt mains. Nice looking project, looks like you found a decent place that does good work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 My machine shop talked with me about adding on 4 bolt mains to the bottom end of the block. Since i have a 69casting the webbing comes flush with the bottom of the block. Like i said i am not sure of doing this mod, i think i am leaning toward just using a main cap girdle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangme428 33 Report post Posted April 1, 2013 My machine shop talked with me about adding on 4 bolt mains to the bottom end of the block. Since i have a 69casting the webbing comes flush with the bottom of the block. Like i said i am not sure of doing this mod, i think i am leaning toward just using a main cap girdle i also have a C9 block and stroked it to 408, the shop i used didn't mention adding 4 bolt mains, nor did i, but i did go with a main girdle kit from canton, im interested in opinions on this subject, im not sure if i took the correct path. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
468stang 11 Report post Posted April 2, 2013 but kept being set on the back burner because of life. I here that. Looking good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 I purchased a set of stainless door wire looms from the Hoffman Group to be installed on my car. Body shop installed them here the other day but i am not to sure if I like the placement. They hit the inside of the door and can foresee issue when the window is installed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 i had my engine bay painted with the Eastwood 2k ceramic urathane paint and my outer aprons with Linex. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 here is the interior sprayed down as well Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 back from powder coating Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 here is a sample of 3M Di-Noc i am looking into using to wrap my gauge bezels. Someone stained my current bezels with a red cherry color. This is the closest sample so far, but not right on the money Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
468stang 11 Report post Posted April 11, 2013 Looking good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) engine bay detail complete and new front suspension components installed. Found out the front strut rod mounts must have been hit by a curb in the past and really bent up. So looks like some more sheet metal work, couldn't get them straightened Edited April 28, 2013 by rchappelear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted April 28, 2013 shop is starting to lay down the paint in the doors, hood, fenders, and trunk lid. This week they will be painting the jambs. Getting excited Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites