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dl69droptop

shock tower crack at upper control arm

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Thanks for the reply. My android phone won't let me upload a pic so I'll try on my home computer latter I do not want to take out the motor and those kits are 250$ seems a lot for medel pieces. Is where the UCA mounts the only weak point on shock tower/apron

Pic coming soon

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This is the first thing to do , prep the area

100_6979.jpg

Then weld plates to the towers

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Then weld upright strength

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Then smooth them out

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Then prime

DSCF0417.jpg

Then top coat

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Then inside shock tower a plate at the bottom were there is a well, shaped to fit inside tower,

DSCF0232.jpg

Edited by 69convertible

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At the very least you will prolly have to pull your suspension components off from that side to get in and do it right. And you may still have to pull the motor it all depends on how bad it is. Yeah, post up some pics when you can so we can further advise. The cracks are prolly more extensive than you realize and are being covered by grease and road grime. B

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I need to do this to my car... just for the sake of having super strong strut towers! Won't handle right if the reinforcements aren't there.

 

Makes sense, just seems like a pain. then again, the M3 i had would require rear subframe reinforcements if you ever wanted to track it or go beyond 150k miles with spirited driving; so it kind of just makes sense for an older car to need some reinforcing.

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This is the first thing to do , prep the area

 

Then weld plates to the towers

 

Then weld upright strength

 

 

Then smooth them out

 

Then prime

 

Then top coat

 

Then inside shock tower a plate at the bottom were there is a well, shaped to fit inside tower,

 

Spot on reinforcement, nice work. Now..... what color red B/C C/C did you paint your stang ? I really like that shade of metalic.

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Can this type of reinforcement be done from the outside? Rather than from inside the engine bay. Just wondering what kind of PITA this is going to be.

 

 

its not that hard unless you dont know how to weld... otherwise find a shop/friend that will do it for you.

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What I guess I'm getting at is, will I HAVE to pull the engine? If i do... then either way, i need to take it in, I don't have the capabilities to pull/lift the engine. And I can't weld, haha. Not really in the job description in the past 8 1/2 years.

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69 Mustang,

 

If you don't know anyone with an engine hoist or a welder, check with your local Mustang club. I'm sure there will be members there with those tools and I'm sure someone will be willing to help you out. That way you have to take it to a shop and pay big money to get the work done. B

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69convertable,

Did you do/have a Shelby drop or are those xtra weld spots above the upper control arm holes?

YES the plug welds are the original UCA location holes , The car now has 1" shelby drop . I dont like to leave holes like that open to rust traps .

All the parts that strengthen the shock tower are 4mm thick plate , I fabed them myself , My job is a sheet metal worker so i make most part myself .

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Spot on reinforcement, nice work. Now..... what color red B/C C/C did you paint your stang ? I really like that shade of metalic.

Thanks , I am happy with the extra strength in my towers , I will fab a 6 point shock tower to cowl to rad support , that should enough !!

Ok the colour , That is House of kolour Kandy apple red , over gun metal grey .

I love it , That was a BIG decision and many changes of my mind !! But i think i made the right decision . Have you seen my rebuild thread ? http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12799

Many pics here

Cheers Kevin

Edited by 69convertible

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You asked if this could be fixed without pulling the engine. The answer is yes. 30 yr ago this happened to my car. The shock towers started to rust through at the bottom and then the tops started to pull loose and move in. I took it to a frame shop. He pulled the tops back in and welded them.

With the front wheel off he cut some thick steel to fit in the pocket below the shock to above the break in the shock tower. The entire outside edge of this piece was then welded to the frame and shock tower. After the repair the towers never moved at all.

 

Hope you can understand my description.

 

JAG

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You asked if this could be fixed without pulling the engine. The answer is yes. 30 yr ago this happened to my car. The shock towers started to rust through at the bottom and then the tops started to pull loose and move in. I took it to a frame shop. He pulled the tops back in and welded them.

With the front wheel off he cut some thick steel to fit in the pocket below the shock to above the break in the shock tower. The entire outside edge of this piece was then welded to the frame and shock tower. After the repair the towers never moved at all.

 

Hope you can understand my description.

 

JAG

 

I think I kind of get what you're saying; you have any pictures to show in more detail?

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I'm doing this repair now with the suspension out and the engine in. is the weak point a shock tower to frame rail. So a gusset from frame to shock tower on the wheel well side should do it? My cracks are at the UCA mounting holes I'm trying to upload a pic very soon

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Hi dl69droptop

Ok here we go with a simple answer . No shock tower to frame rail is 1 weak point , But that alone will not stop cracks , Look at were the UCA bolts to the tower , This is made up from 2 pieces of quite thin sheet metal , All the load from UCA to spring to top of tower is on the 2 holes in the tower , If you just weld the cracks up they will crack again next to the old cracks . If you look at my pics of bracing , The lower tower to frame rail inside , then look at where my outside bracing from the wing plates that rap around the tower , The bottom of them is the top of tower to rail ! Then the inside vertical plates are 4mm thick fully welded to tower .

You can not weld any plates inside the tower were the UCA bolts to tower , This will mess up the camber angle as you will be pushing the UCA out at the top .

Hope this helps and you understand me ?

Cheers Kevin

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Glad to help , Take your time and do the job once & do it right , Its winter your car is of the road ? No rush then , You can weld you wing plates straight to the towers , that will help & the gusset inside tower to frame rail , To stop the cracks you need something in the engine bay side were the UCA bolts come through the tower .

Good luck , Post pics for us .

Cheers Kevin

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Pics coming soon on a different topic need advice on replacing/repairing rear deck at back window. the convertibles rust bad from the back window water running down mine is pretty bad. Can't find a repo panel. I started an other tread on the subject

thanks, dan

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69 Mustang.... sorry I was not able to get back to you sooner. I do not have any pictures of the repair I described since the car was totaled many years ago. This repair was done by a very respected frame man. It also looked very good from the outside. To make the inside breaks look good you will need to pull the engine.

 

JAG

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