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What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

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Because they don’t need it.  I have a plan for a future set of heads.  These are run of the mill 2V heads... not worth it.  I am going to lap the valves in, and if I have a good mating, I’m done.

Next set of heads will hopefully be Aussie heads.

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19 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

Because they don’t need it.  I have a plan for a future set of heads.  These are run of the mill 2V heads... not worth it.  I am going to lap the valves in, and if I have a good mating, I’m done.

Next set of heads will hopefully be Aussie heads.

I just changed from 4V open chamber to 2V closed chamber Aussie heads and had a noticeable improvement off the mark. 351C . 

I used Aussie heads because that’s the easiest to find down here.

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$#!+!!!!!

Broke a piston ring today while installing the pistons.  Second ring, must have pupped out of the groove while I was compressing them,  another ring on order.

I did get 5 pistons done... then decided the busted ring was an omen and packed it in for the night.

On a related note, Sealed Power/Federal Mogul can kiss my furry butt.  They packaged these rings with NO explanation of what they were.  So the second ring... says TOP on it.  I now know this means “this side up.”  Why not put “UP” on it?  I was beginning to think they packaged the damn thing wrong.  Top ring had... nothing on it.  No dot for up, no engraving, no bevel.  Nothing to signal which side goes up.  Why?  Because it doesn’t bloody matter, and it can go either way!  Spent half an hour trying to find the answers because SP/FM likes to be cryptic.  Buttholes.

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Local shop hooked me up with another piston ring.  I looked for a taper ring compressor, but all they had was what I was using... which works fine when I dont screw it up.

I also asked them about the Sealed Power piston rings.  Seems I was right about the top ring going either way.  So I feel better now.

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Okay, so today’s color is BLUE.  

First, I BLUEd the valves on the driver head, and all of them came out looking spectacular.  I practiced a bit with the first one trying to get the right amount of blue.  It doesn’t take much to get a reading.

Then I finished installing the pistons and rods into by BLUE engine block.  Okay that was a stretch.  But the pistons and rods are in.

Finally, The boy and I cleaned up and painted the driver cylinder head...you guessed it... BLUE.  Oh yeah!!

FB4FF99A-D365-47CB-9476-C5CF9277AD33.gif.019579529944d9fa89ec94baf4143b5b.gif

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Oooo… doing it the hard way!  I like it!

I have been working on my heads... just finished assembling the driver side.  I know they are the same, other than the fact that I have put a NPT port on the back of this one so I can measure water temperature in the head... future project.

I learnt that the big C clamp style spring compressor is really good for taking springs off, not so good for putting them on... particularly beehive springs.  For some reason, I had another spring compressor of a different variety...

WMR-W84001_xl.jpg

This thing is great... you can compress the spring while it is in your hands, put it on the head, and release the spring.  It doesn't do dual or triple springs for obvious reasons, but for my single beehives, it was perfect.

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Spent the afternoon and evening installing the timing cover, and drilling out the broken motor mount bolt.  Ended up having to Heli-coil that hole.  Couldn’t get the ez-out to turn the bolt.  I think that thing is mis-named.

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9 hours ago, candoo said:

Blasted, primed and painted my rocker trim.

Yesterday did interior pieces.

 

WOW.  That is some beautiful restoration work!

Edited by JayEstes
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Well, last evening I put on the water pump and oil pan.  This evening I will be taking the oil pan back off.  I forgot to remove the windage tray studs.  I had previously installed a windage tray that did... nothing.  I am guessing nothing at least.  So I was going to put the original main bolts back in and sell the windage tray.  Oops.  I suppose I could leave them in, but I also left the nuts on them.  Not particularly tight.  I am sure that they would fall off at my earliest inconvenience.  So yeah... doing the oil pan again tonight.

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I glued the exhaust gasket/adapters in place to make engine installation easier.  These are for the Sanderson headers. Necessary because the headers are for 4V. So the adapter allows the 2V to seal up. Done it before, and it works.

8ECAD857-2CD4-4988-9A49-C1D0057A6FC7.jpeg

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kept thinking my Distributor was dying on me while driving, but realized I was losing all power which included the stereo. after changing fuses, checking my Alternator, finally realized my ignition switch was the culprit!  

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Hi. New here so not sure where or how this reply will show up. Guess it will be here somewhere.

I just bought a shell of a 70 Mach 1. Marti report shows it had a 4V Cleveland, 4 speed, and no fold-down rear seat. I want to put a Tremec 5 speed in it for the O-drive. But not sure. Would it be better to keep it original as possible? Or restomod? Any advice? 

Today I did some bodywork. Have been doing bodywork of late. Had to heat shrink 5 areas, 3 on top of car. I've seen tri-fives that were found in open fields in better shape then this Mach 1 body. Last week I finished media blasting the body with 40/70 crushed glass. Seems someone had primed it 5 years ago and it was rusted under the primer! 

Anyway sealed it after getting all the rust off. emulsified the rust areas I could not reach.

I"m needing to order a distributor, a thermo housing and thermostat, and put my harmonic balancer on. The engine is freshly rebult. But has 2v heads. I bought the eldlebrock intake as a means to give it some extra hp's. Not sure how much it will give it. 

But I have a 4v intake I can put on her, and 4v heads that need rebuilt. That way I would have a decent 4v engine as its listed in the marti report. M code. Just not the original. 

Anyone reading this. Would you sell the Edelbrock intake and put the factory intake on? With the 4 v heads? After all it is the best way to line up the shaker hood it shows it had. 

Otherwise, I've heard different intake could cause the hood scoop assembly to set too high. I need to call Edelbrock and find out just how much hp you can get out of a 2V head system with their special 2V Cleveland intake. Does anyone know?

I guess the question would be. Go original with a shaker hood, or use what I already have available. 

Thanks for stopping by. 

mach 1 in process of body shop work.jpg

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