ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 Im a Motorsports repair shop so the stuff is readily available....the headlamps retail for 100.00 ea. the 1157 replacement bulbs at 30.00 ea. got 4 Two for the over head and two for the sport lamps at dealer price it is still a bit high but well worth it... (The headlamps have there own little fan to cool the bulbs) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 This one should have its own tread....Internet hype and how i got balled up in it... But its what I did today..... Blue thunder 351C intake mod. Just cut down the intake devider and be rewarded with 8-10 hp at 6000 rpms...and it did.. No one told you what you will loss below 4000 RPMs..ALOT... Tried just using a removable center divider.... This was good for testing but due to sonic intake waves any thing that was a little bit loss rattled like a small turbo and would shatter or were out.. (more good times 3 hours from home) In the end just weld a new divider back in... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted April 3, 2016 Started restoring my heater box. Disassembled it, and put the metal parts in the strip-all bath, along with the tail light housings and other misc parts for the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michael2938 24 Report post Posted April 4, 2016 Finally replaced my points with a pertronix ignitor ii. I got to learn all about the pink resister wire and how to bypass it. Thankfully there were lots of people before me who posted about how to do it. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted April 8, 2016 Lower dash is back in! Also replaced the A-Pillar trim with those from Mustangs Unlimited. Pretty poor quality but the old ones were in pieces so better than nothing, and the color is right now. Hopefully I can test the wiring this weekend and if that is good run the car in the garage a bit then put the Gauges, Center Console, Clock, and Dash back in. Then switch out the Oil sending unit for the new after market gauge. Once that's good a quick trip to the body shop to the hood realigned, then to get a custom 2.5 inch exhaust put on, and I should be ready for the season. The goal is at least 100 miles a weekend starting Mid-May. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted April 11, 2016 Installed new driver side upper control arm, spring saddle, spindle, spring and sway bar. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted April 13, 2016 Installed New Lower Roller Control Arms, Installed a 3rd Brake Light and Drove it a few hundred MORE miles haha. I drive this thing anywhere and everywhere...Have to be sure she will make it on the Power Tour after all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted April 13, 2016 Need to see more Pics Hood Rich... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 16, 2016 I told my mustang if it was good I would buy it some rear disc brakes and a new stereo... It informed me that being old and being good was not easy!!!!but it would try.. Pic. next week.....What a sucker I am... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 17, 2016 Received my 2-1/2" exhaust kit today, so I started cutting bends and got it welded together. Really fun doing exhaust without a lift. It's the pipes and muffs after the headers. If my back is feeling better tomorrow I'll bolt it up. I also bought the econo caster/camber gauge and was playing with it today. Bought both from Speedway Motors. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 17, 2016 Purchased 2 new tires so I can move the car out of the garage to start working on it again now that the weather is getting nice. Cooper Cobra Radial GT 225/70R-14. For now they are going on the rear. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 17, 2016 My mustang did not hold up on its end of the bargain.. Heater motor finely died today.(32 deg. in down town Barrington NH) How hard can this be just to pull out the heater motor??? ARE YOU KIDDING ME....I have had this car apart more than a rubrics cube in my life.. Good news i don't need heat to drive it..Or a dash. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69RavenConv 286 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 How hard can this be just to pull out the heater motor??? It's been said - and I believe it - that when Ford built the Mustang, they started with the heater box and then built the entire car around it. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MN69Grande 203 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 I just did the heater core over the winter. Let me just say - be happy it's not an AC car. I ended up taking the gauges and lower dash out too. Jeebus. Had I know I probably would have just by passed the whole setup for a season. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 LED light strips in the back.. Wish i had these when I was 16 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 My mustang did not hold up on its end of the bargain.. Heater motor finely died today.(32 deg. in down town Barrington NH) How hard can this be just to pull out the heater motor??? ARE YOU KIDDING ME....I have had this car apart more than a rubrics cube in my life.. Good news i don't need heat to drive it..Or a dash. Everyone who's done that repair is feeling your pain. So do tell, were you able to remove the heater box without moving the lower dash??? If so, you're the first I've heard about getting lucky with that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 It's been said - and I believe it - that when Ford built the Mustang, they started with the heater box and then built the entire car around it. :) Ain't that the truth! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 Took out the seat risers today, about 60 spot welds. Used a combination of the Harbor Freight remover and a 4" grinder. Don't know if I'm using the wrong grinding wheel, but the HF tool was more efficient. Still on the first side of the bit and it's still going strong. Still learning how to judge the depth I need to drill, went all the way through on a few. To fill in the holes that went all the way through ,get a piece of copper ,a piece of copper pipe hammered flat will work .The weld will not stick to the copper and it will act as a back stop for the weld . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted April 18, 2016 Never removed the lower dash but did have to take out the two bolts on the right that held it in. Still a little tight but doable.... If you did not split off the rear half first.your in for a grand time.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted April 19, 2016 Went to the shop to look at the car, they are currently installing all the door seals and qtr windows. sadly, I did not take any pictures.. but let me tell you that ford ingot silver does pop! lol does anyone have a pictures on how to install the hood cowl vent? for some reason they don't understand that the window trim sits above the cowl, not under it! lol SMH.. gotta love body shops.. lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted April 19, 2016 Tell them to put the window bumpers in place to hold the window up if its not in yet, then install the window molding things brackets on the bottom, then put the cowl on and Then put the molding on... if its done with the cowl can actually be slid in under the molding if its already in place.. I pit a little strip of black tape on the paint so it don't get scratched when sliding it in and out hehe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted April 20, 2016 Tell them to put the window bumpers in place to hold the window up if its not in yet, then install the window molding things brackets on the bottom, then put the cowl on and Then put the molding on... if its done with the cowl can actually be slid in under the molding if its already in place.. I pit a little strip of black tape on the paint so it don't get scratched when sliding it in and out hehe thanks mike! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted April 20, 2016 To fill in the holes that went all the way through ,get a piece of copper ,a piece of copper pipe hammered flat will work .The weld will not stick to the copper and it will act as a back stop for the weld . good tip Ridge! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted April 20, 2016 Ordered a real oil sending unit extension tube to replace the Home Depot plumbing fitting that was leaking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969Fstback 58 Report post Posted April 22, 2016 Welded the battery apron in, finished putting on calipers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
