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69_Mustang

What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

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Finally re-installed the front sway bar...

                       with an upside down bushing washer the first try ...

                                    which I didn't catch until I was done...

                                                             oh well, another 10 minutes of whining and it was done right...

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Removed both fenders and bumper. Ordered battery apron and moog parts to rebuild th control arms. Ordered new fender bolts to replace the half dozen I twisted off.

I'd order/replace the J nuts also, as my bolts weren't always the problem.

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I'd order/replace the J nuts also, as my bolts weren't always the problem.

Yep ordered those to since other end of the bolt is still in it. Found bonus rust where bumper mount attaches. Ordered the patch for that. Fenders weren't too bad. The freaking bumper bolts on the other hand.

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oil pressure gauge was pegged high, so;

 

checked sender wire for breaks back to the plug at the firewall.

removed dash pad and gauge cluster

checked, cleaned and polished all the terminals on the main plug. 

removed the oil gauge.  housing had spots of rust, so cleaned and painted the housing.  Added a rubber strip between the gauge and the housing (inside) to increase the insulation of the posts.

same with the apparently inert ammeter, painted housing, rubber insulator

 

I noticed that the PO had not installed the main center housing (speedo and fuel/temp) flush on the body of the binnacle.  No screws in the four lower holes , and oddly, two large screws coming from the cabin side, down the bottom near the steering column.  They should not be there, and I can only assume the PO just crewed them into the holes thinking they were fasteners.  What that did was push the bottom of the center housing up and away from the binnacle.  This in turn stretched the flexible circuit board tight.  Very tight fit across the instruments. 

 

After reassembly, the circuit board was flat, and flush.  I tested all the gauges with my trusty test unit, and the temp was dead......

 

I de-mounted it all again and re-assembled the temp and fuel gauge.  Must have been a glitch because everything tested out good.

 

5 hours of fun.  but worth it.

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Did it solve the oil pressure gauge being pegged? If not the pressure relief valve in the pump could be stuck.

Yes, oil gauge is good.  I tested it in the car with the oil sending wire removed, so the problem was somewhere at the gauge or the mounting holes for the gauge - pretty sure it was touching the housing and getting an earth from that.

I hooked it back in to the car and it worked properly.  That was when I saw the temp gauge was dead......and the temp and fuel gauge are both brand new. 

Pretty sure the problems all stemmed from the housing not being correctly in position.  there are six screws for the main metal housing and only two of them were in, and the bottom of the housing was about 3/8" from the screw holes.   This pulled the circuit board taut and put pressure on the mounting points for the ammeter, oil pressure, and all the illumination fittings. 

So, all gauges working, and the ammeter appears to have some life now.  The needle is moving and jumping with lights and electrical loads.  Cool.

 

I had an idea that might fix this problem with the mounting studs for all the gauges. thin rubber tubes about a quarter inch put over the studs during assembly might work.  They would crush down when the nut is screwed down, and hopefully fill around the stud and insulate it from the housing.

Next time I guess...

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I marked the position to cut and removed the generic, way too long air cleaner stud from the carb in case some well meaning relative visiting me accidentally shut the hood.

 

Other than that, I hope to have a triumphant update in a week or two.

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Pulled the transmission, fmx,  out.  Did it separately from the engine.  Used one of those transmission adapters  that go on the floor jack.  Although it's a sturdy piece, its sit very high off the jack.  Had to get the car really high to get it out from under the car because all the steering is still in place.  Next time I'll just bolt a piece of plywood to the jack.  I think that would more than adequate.

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Lets See.

1. Installed 4 Degree Pinion Shims and fixed 99% of the driveline vibration...May need 1-2 more degrees to make it 100% vibration free, or maybe a new Aluminum driveshaft

 

2. Installed hood pins

3. Adjusted driver and pass side windows along with weather stripping channels.

4. Installed new rear Seat Belts.

5. Installed Speedometer Cable and got Speedo Working, altho its 8mph off and will need correct gear

6. Freshened motor and installed Link Bar Lifters

7. Installed new front windshield.

 

That's about it for this week.

Next week I am going to try to get some Closed cell foam and some Mass Loaded Vinyl and start the process of trying to make it more quiet inside than it is now

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Built me a temporary paint booth to sand blast and paint in so the shop doesn't get filthy with Black Diamond dust.

Smart move. I'd change the name to permanent if it was my shop :)

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Installed new stainless steel hood pin set on the 70 coupe.  Now they make the originals on my 69 look like dirt.  Another job on the list.....

 

Changed out a blown brake light on the 69 Mach 1. 

 

Big day :)   But I had to remove a busted throttle cable from my GSXR1000.  Then drive across town to get a new one, then reinstall it and adjust it.  That killed my day.  I had come from a 120 mile ride, and the throttle cable broke 200 yards from my house.  Lucky...in one way.

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