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What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

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I finally placed my order for new wheels and tires.  I ordered Specialty Magnum 500 from Summit with 235/60 on 15x7 for the front and 245/60 on 15x8 for the rear.   I orignally wanted to go 15x8 all around but a combination of hearing there could be fit issues with 15x8 on the front and that it just looks better staggered got me to this point.  I'm getting Cooper Cobras from Discount Tire Direct.

This will probably blow my car budget for 2019 and since it is ready to drive other than wheels and tires I am pretty excited.

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I have 15x7 235’s up front and have no issues.  I went with old school Cragers tho.  Hope it works out for you. The 8’s in back will look great.  I also got the Cooper cobras and I’m very happy with them.

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Did a couple of things I've been dreading and putting off. I had to drill out the screws for the door striker plates. Been soaking those suckers with PB Blaster for a month and still could not get them out. In fact, stripped the screw heads out trying to remove them. Drilled off the heads and removed the remaining studs with an EZ Out. 

Worse than that was the removal of a bolt in the dash assembly. A few months back when I was removing one of the dash brackets, I rounded the head on one of the bolts. To get the assembly off, I used a high speed grinder and cut the bolt head off, leaving the remaining stud. Apparently, someone back in 69 was having an off day with his impact gun, as this bolt was practically in sideways. I had to cut the whole nut assembly out of the dash and with the nut removed and in my vice, I still could not remove that stud.  Tomorrow will weld up the dash with the new nut.

 

Dash 1.png

Dash 2.png

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10 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

Easiest way to  remove the  striker  screws,  is just  heat them up on the backside and will practically  fall out. 

Yeah, I entertained that idea but was concerned about all the penetrating oil and stuff I had previously applied. Did not want to risk a fire. Thanks, Rich

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35 minutes ago, Machspeed said:

Yeah, I entertained that idea but was concerned about all the penetrating oil and stuff I had previously applied. Did not want to risk a fire. Thanks, Rich

I have an impact driver like this

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XTJ6XKY7Q966KNGD8Z32

Mine is an older different brand. Works great on stuck screws if you know how to use it properly; you have to adjust it right for it to work and you need the right bit that fits perfect to the head of the screw. I recommend a tool like that to anybody that is taking apart a 50 years old car.

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2 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

The impact  tool won't  even  compare to a torch  for  a  really  stubborn  bolt. You can even   just  use a propane  torch. We also have an  Inductor  that will  remove  bolts  even around a  gas tank. 

Yep, I had an impact driver on them and kept them soaked in penetration oil and it wouldn't touch them. Best way would be with heat, but again, concerned about a fire. EZ out worked out fine though. 

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I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also.

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6 hours ago, aslanefe said:

I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also.

Terry, thanks for the input buddy. Here's the impact driver I used. It's a heavy duty sucker with the correct bit and it removed two of the striker plate screws! On those two, I got lucky. It would not budge the other two. In fact, I was afraid I wasn't going to get them with the removal of the screw head and the EZ Out. Thought I was going to have to tap drill the suckers and re-tap. There is a process of galvanic corrosion going on in there between the metal of the screw and the threaded plate. I could see it with the removal of the screws. 

 

Drive.png

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17 hours ago, mustangstofear said:

I've  hit them so hard with the  impact that I  drove  jam in, still  wouldn't  come  loose.  

You know that they need to be set for right hand or left hand thread before use, right?

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Alignment and new points, condenser and ignition wires!  Drives great now.

The drive up was a little scary.  I had done a shade tree alignment but didn't really torque down the Lower control arms well enough and the passenger side cam slipped when I hit a pothole.  I thought I was going to go in the ditch.  Drive home was so much fun.

20190316_115917_zpshf6mirif.jpg

 

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Went to my first car show today.  Had to get a jump to leave and confirmed that my alternator is dead.  Now to decide to rebuild or replace.  I don't think it is the original case.  It says Motorcraft on it.  Where is the best place to get one?

 

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Working on the gauge cluster, trying to get everything working. Gauges don’t work, and for some reason my left blinker indicator was stuck on. I also have blinker indicators turning on with the dash lights... so, I am ditching the circuit card PCB that has really deteriorated.  Also unhooking the ammeter. Would really like that to be a volt meter...

Anyway, I checked the gauges and they are good. I tested the new solid state regulator, and it is rock solid at 5V. Also started wiring the gauges, and I’m waiting on the bulb sockets (should be here today)

 

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24E76FE8-5729-478F-851B-93603FAD4D65.jpeg

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Aaaand... it’s wired.  Good news!  Dash lights aren’t shorting to ground!  Branching the grounds and dash light power took forever... I started on it at around 5pm and finished around 10pm.  Breaks in there, but not many.  @Midlife buddy... you aren’t charging enough!

 

39337233-5388-4486-B061-1294EE6BFFF5.jpeg

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