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69_Mustang

What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

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17 hours ago, TexasEd said:

You need to tell me if that progressive ignition distributor is worth the money or not.  Considering one.

Which intake is that?

People that have a used it said they like it. I haven't ran my engine yet but I'm close.  It definitely has its benefits over a normal distributor. 

I really like that you can adjust the timing on your phone, the security feature , selecting different maps and no ignition box required 

 It's a Victor jr intake 

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My car has an edelbrock carb with an electric choke that was never hooked up.  And a 1-wire alternator, so I couldn't just wire it to the usual post on the back of the alternator. :(

I finally ordered one of those dual port oil pressure extensions and it came in today.  I have the usual big pressure sending unit for the gauge, and now a smaller on/off switch.  When the engine is running, the oil pressure switch closes a circuit and now my choke works.

Its the orange wires here.

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I'm finally getting around to sorting out everything that goes inside my doors.  The previous owner cobbled something together that mostly worked.  But the windows were on the loose end floppy side.  What started out as "no problem, I'll just reglue the windows" has snowballed into having to replace all the parts that are glued to the window, most of the guides that it rides on, and some of the stops.

I think I have all the necessary parts ordered.  Some of them have arrived.  The windows are out, and I'm currently covered in black goop from getting the old broke and incorrect parts cut off the windows.  Probably another few hours of cleaning up, then I can start putting it back together.

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Had a surprising weekend with my stang 'Penny' guys.  I had signed up for the Keels & Wheels "Concourse de' Elegance" show in Seabrook, TX.  Ive been twice before (last before covid), but this show is full of amazing vehicles, and I have been happy they let me even show.  

Well, I wanted to see if there was anything I could do to "up my game" in a short amount of time, and I noticed that the trunk was 10pts of the score.  I've never liked the stock treatment and said I wouldn't do it, but I never seem to get around to "doing it right" like I said I would.  So, to try to improve my score I bought the stock trunk liner, jack bag, and spare-tire cover.  Spent a little bit of time laying it in there, and trying to make it look decent.  Came out like this:

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All I had to say was: "Well, it certainly looks better than nothing/what I had".  So I went with it.

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The surprise came when I checked the judges sheet Sunday afternoon:  "Best in Class"!!  Unbelievable!

I've only put the car in maybe a half-dozen shows, and I've never done better than second place anywhere.  But the real surprise is that the show in Seabrook is one of the more prestigious shows (at least around here).  

It rained on Saturday, but didn't take any sunshine out of the day for me.  Aaron Shelby was here, and gave me a big "congrats" when I left the show - certainly an amazing day for me:

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Spent 3 hours chasing nothing.

Few days ago I put a new temp gauge in, cleaned the thread sealer out of the sender. All working, tick it off. Yesterday, went for a drive, lit it up in 1st and 2nd, temp gauge stops working. Ok, maybe a wire is crimped or fell off (it has an aftermarket dash voltage reg).

Check resistance on sender, wiring loom, gauge. Seems to check out, except I made a rookie mistake and checked resistance across the gauge, not gauge to cluster chassis. Pull the cluster apart, check it all, reassemble. Confirm no shorts.

Put the cluster back, plug it in. No temp gauge. (I know what y'all are thinking by now).

Recheck it all. No electrickery leaks anywhere. Ground sender wire, gauge goes to the moon. Y'all are right....

Get 15/16" ring open end spanner. Haul on the sender and bush.

Temp gauge works.

Who woulda thought banging gears could affect the ground of a engine temperature sensor????

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11 hours ago, Mike65 said:

Did a little more work on the wiring in the trunk.

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Looking good there Mike.  I coated the interior of mine with black rattle can truckbed liner.  Stuff is as hard as nails and has a nice mottled finish to hide a lot of the metal unevenness.  YMMV…

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Thanks to those who posted pics of the trunk harness routing. Today I routed the trunk wire harness & ran the ground wires for the tail lights, & side lights to the ground screw on the trunk latch support. Little at a time.

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2 hours ago, Mike65 said:

Thanks to those who posted pics of the trunk harness routing. Today I routed the trunk wire harness & ran the ground wires for the tail lights, & side lights to the ground screw on the trunk latch support. Little at a time.

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Awesome!  (Now please go clip that zip tie!). [sorry- pet peeve].  Thanks to your post I fixed a problem I didn’t know I had!

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On 6/11/2023 at 3:28 PM, JayEstes said:

Awesome!  (Now please go clip that zip tie!). [sorry- pet peeve].  Thanks to your post I fixed a problem I didn’t know I had!

What was the problem my post helped you with? The zip ties are temp until I am done. They are there to hold the harness in place.

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4 hours ago, Mike65 said:

What was the problem my post helped you with? The zip ties are temp until I am done. They are there to hold the harness in place.

I posted pics of my wiring and folks pointed out I had the LHS reverse light run thru the floor improperly.  I found out where it should be routed and fixed it!

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I pulled mine out of where it's sat in my parent's garage since 1998, and brought it to my house. It's not back inside yet, but since the neighbor's son set a fire that spread to the garage I wanted to get the 2 project cars recovered out of it ASAP, in case the roof and attic (where the fire was concentrated) decided to collapse. I need to condense my 12 year old's CJ7 project to make room in my toy shop for it. My dad's Model A project and small parts from both cars are currently filling our attached garage too...

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Yesterday I received the gasket for the fuel sender & installed it into the tank & installed the gas tank & completed the rest of the wiring in the trunk to the electric fuel pump & the fuel sender.

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Mike, lesson learned from my '68 Mustang  build. 

For that little piece of rubber hose that goes from the tank sender to your hard fuel lines, get the "fuel injection hose" from your local auto parts store.  The old school rubber fuel line will disintegrate over time from modern gas that has ethanol in it.  I found out the hard way when I found a puddle of gas under my '68 coupe.  I also wound up with rubber particles stuck in my fuel filter....

If you go to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone, ask for the "R9" fuel hose instead of the "R6" (or "R7") fuel hose.   It is more expensive, but you won't need a whole lot.  Also use this for the soft line from your fuel pump to the carb.

"R9" is the fuel line that meets the SAE 30R9 standard.   The "R6" meets the older SAE 30R6 standard, as does the "R7" (SAE 30R7)

If you are running a return line, I ran mine right next to my main fuel line.  I purchased two 3/8" SS fuel lines from NPD and Mike from Latoracing (forum member) was doing some other work on my car and did a masterful job of running the fuel lines.  I will post some pics here shortly.

 

 

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