What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

[NewStangOwner 4]

What is the best way to clean the cylinder heads. These things need it.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Send them to a machine shop for a valve job, and they will come back pretty, and healthy. Anything you put on there will likely end up in the crankcase with other nasty stuff you don't want in there.

[NewStangOwner 4]

36 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

Send them to a machine shop for a valve job, and they will come back pretty, and healthy. Anything you put on there will likely end up in the crankcase with other nasty stuff you don't want in there.

Is that the only option?

[aslanefe 333]

2 hours ago, NewStangOwner said:

Is that the only option?

If that car has been sitting long, chances are the rubber seals are dried up and will leak soon. I would remove the engine, clean it up, remove the oil pan and heads. Check the cylinder for wear (the ridge at top is a good indicator). Clean the heads, clean the top of pistons, change all the seals and gaskets (front and rear main seal, head gaskets, intake gaskets, valve seals, valve cover and oil pan gaskets and freeze plugs). Wash the water galleys out while the freeze plugs are out, remove the radiator and wash it out. Disassemble and clean the oil pump. Clean the carb. Assuming it is an automatic, I would also change the transmission front, rear seals (may be the transmission oil pan gasket if it is leaking).  Above can be done at home without sending it to a machine shop with basic tools and a torque wrench (if you have access to an engine hoist).

[aslanefe 333]

Looks like you are missing the shock tower braces; might want to install an "export brace".

[NewStangOwner 4]

Alright cool. I can do that. Might as well anyway. I know the car did sit for atleast a couple of years

[Midlife 814]

22 hours ago, RPM said:

I rode in a 66 coupe with a bench seat back circa 1977 when I hitchhiked from Tijuana BC to Fresno Ca.

Geez, they let just about anyone foreign looking into the county back then.

[RPM 1,190]

IKR!

[Mike65 475]

On 6/9/2022 at 9:05 PM, RPM said:

@Mike65 have you realized it's not big enough yet? :)

Not to worry, we all do at some point. 

@RPM For what I need it for it will be OK. If I have to get my 05 F150 in the garage we can move my wife's motorcycle in front of the Mustang & then there is plenty of room for it. I should have made it a 3 car garage but the cost of the concrete was expensive for the 2 car garage.

[TexasEd 188]

New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters. 
 

[TexasEd 188]

More interior work. I trimmed the rear carpet installed the rear fiberglass panels, got a custom color paint for the package tray and installed the rear seats. 

[Vicfreg 771]

A big day off to the paint shop!

 

[rwcstang 201]

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.

it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

[Hux 45]

Not the best photo but full rebuild of the diff.  Sandblasted the housing then repainted in 2 pack satin black.  Same with the drum backing plates.  Everything new in the brakes.  Then a nice new centre, Strange modular centre and big bearing pinion with 1350.  cryo polished Motive 3.25 gear set, Eaton Tru Trac.

Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.

 

[aslanefe 333]

6 hours ago, Hux said:

Any suggestions on renewing the rubber shielding around the handbrake cable?  MIne is cracking badly but the cable moves freely.

Heat shrink tubing?

[ddrane1@cox.net 0]

Hux, that looks great!  I just put my ring gear on my carrier tonight,  still have to paint the housing. I thought the pinion support was red oxide? Doesn't matter im not going to repaint again. 

Edited September 17, 2022 by ddrane1@cox.net
To add question

[Hux 45]

On 9/17/2022 at 10:12 AM, ddrane1@cox.net said:

Hux, that looks great!  I just put my ring gear on my carrier tonight,  still have to paint the housing. I thought the pinion support was red oxide? Doesn't matter im not going to repaint again. 

Thanks.  I left it neutral - no idea what it should be as its the big bearing version.  Not doing concours - make it look nice so you are happy when you look under the car I say!

 

[rwcstang 201]

ordered a set of low profile caltracs after noticing wheel hop with the 200 tread tires after a few mid rev launches.. definitely not fun lol. 

[rwcstang 201]

went to a local meet with some friends, found this really nice looking 69 gt350, I looked at the side scoops and did not know they were actually functional, gave me an idea to mod a extra set of side scoops I have (Thanks to Ridge Runner) 

[smh00n 87]

1. Pulled the 302 engine and slushbox for a 347W/TKO600 install
2. Pulled the whole steering assembly for a Borgeson conversion
3. Pulled the pedal box for manual conversion
4. Cleaned all the oil/grease/crud from under it
5. Pulled the engine crossmember that was rattling away happily to itself
6. Test fitted the new p/s box and started looking at installing the column back in.

Sitting back having a beer quite happy.

[Vicfreg 771]

Well, that’s a good days work there!

couple of things to consider, I’ve been involved in a couple conversions of this type. 
-The TKO 600 will probably not fit without modifying your transmission tunnel. The bolts on the top will not clear, nor will the top of the transmission.  Modern driveline can fix this, they machine about a centimeter off the top of the transmission, and use different bolting hardware.  See link below.  Or you can try it and see how it works in your car.  Even if you use lowered motor mounts, the problem will probably still exist.  Perhaps some of the other form members can comment on their experience with the larger TKO

- i’ve done two Borgeson conversions, they both work well.   You will probably have to cut the end of your steering column to get it to meet up correctly with the new Borgeson box.  It depends on the configuration of the one they supply you, they vary a little bit from the stock dimensions. 

- Take the opportunity while the column is out to replace the bearing that’s at the top of the steering column. It’s easy to do, it’s a stock, Ford part, all you need to do is pull off the turn signal switch to get at it.  

- Due to cutting the column,  at the bottom of the steering column on the first conversion, I made a bushing to keep the steering column shaft centered in the column at the bottom. Now, Borgeson sells a bearing kit that you can attach to the bottom that is a much neater installation.  On my second conversion, I used this, I had to modify that kit because I didn’t have enough room to get the whole bearing assembly in. I believe have some pictures of that if you want me to find, that might be happy to.  
- If your car had factory power steering, for the Borgeson conversion , you need to convert to the manual Steering center link and Pitman arm.   These should be fairly easy to find. You need a huge socket and a big ass impact wrench to get the nut off the Pitman arm though. 

- And finally get a brand new Ragjoint

- if you’re not considering a cable or hydraulic clutch conversion, you probably need to do that. Since you already have the pedal support out, that makes it easy, most cable clutch kits just attached directly to that .  When you install headers on the new engine, with the Borgeson box, plus the Z bar linkage, there’s not gonna be a lot of room on the driver side of the engine compartment for the Z-bar clutch mechanism.
- highly recommend going to a General Motors power steering pump.  The operating pressure is much better, and they don’t leak.  There are  number of ways to mount that, which will work with the V belt or a serpentine belt conversion.

- Also recommend running your power steering lines, either in the fender, well, or order the six-cylinder power steering lines from Borgeson, as they are longer.  The ones supplied with the eight cylinder kit are long enough, but you have to mount them on your driver side, fender, well, and they’re really close to the Headers. On my first conversion, my power steering lines are wrapped in heat tape/insulation, to keep them from being melted by the Headers.   I used Earls power steering hose and fittings on my 1970, and routed her the lines in the fenderwell , and it came out great, there’s pictures of the power steering line routing on my forum “1970 convertible”. 

- I installed a 351 Windsor (393 stroker) in my 1970 convertible. I always planned to use adjustable motor mounts, and that came in handy for my last install, because I needed to move the engine a little bit to the passenger side to avoid my Headers hitting the Borgeson box.  It’s a really tight fit.

- Borgeson set up needs a lot of camber to steer correctly. As most of us are running fairly wide tires in the front, you quickly run out of space to get the Camber you need before your tires interfere with the fenderwell.  On my second conversion, I added different upper control arms that have a 3° offset that allows me to dial in the Camber I want.

I know lots of info here, if you want to chat about this some evening, send me an IM and we can exchange phone numbers be happy to talk about it.
 

Vic

 

-https://www.moderndriveline.com/

 

 

.

[rwcstang 201]

1 hour ago, Vicfreg said:

Well, that’s a good days work there!

couple of things to consider, I’ve been involved in a couple conversions of this type. 
-The TKO 600 will probably not fit without modifying your transmission tunnel. The bolts on the top will not clear, nor will the top of the transmission.  Modern driveline can fix this, they machine about a centimeter off the top of the transmission, and use different bolting hardware.  See link below.  Or you can try it and see how it works in your car.  Even if you use lowered motor mounts, the problem will probably still exist.  Perhaps some of the other form members can comment on their experience with the larger TKO

I know lots of info here, if you want to chat about this some evening, send me an IM and we can exchange phone numbers be happy to talk about it.
 

Vic

 

-https://www.moderndriveline.com/

 

 

.

I have MDL kit TKO600 in my 69 coupe, never had an issue of what you described, we didn't have to notch or use a BFH to get the transmission to fit. the TKO didn't have the modified covers that I have seen in most installs, had the stock covers and didn't rub, I am using the "stock" poly type motor mounts. wondering if maybe the kit they supplied was a defect. 

Only complaints I had was their shifter 1" adapter, the supplied serrated nut kept loosening and I would have to keep re-tightening it, eventually added a washer and never had that issue again.

the other issue was the overpriced external hydraulic slave that bolts to the bellhousing, the bracket was nice, but could be made with a thicker grade steel, the the slave it self is $12 - $20 at any local auto parts store (early 80's nissan or toyota truck), MDL resells them at $100+ which I think is insane. 

I had their clutch, but only lasted a year as the pressure plate failed, I dug deeper and the clutch kits are made overseas, not a bad company who makes them but to say they do all their clutches inhouse is a lie. Went with Mccleod super street and it has lasted me 5 years and counting. 

[dbmac 22]

I agree with Vic on the TKO600 fitment. Some folks have had success but not all. Here’s my experience with a TKO500 which is smaller. Still needed to cut the tunnel. 

if you have not received the TKO6 yet, I’d seriously consider the TKX. Similar horsepower rating, in a slimmer case designed for retrofits. It’s pretty much the same size as a Toploader.

Let us know how it goes!

 

 

[Vicfreg 771]

I finally settled on the Ford motor sport T5Z, for my 1968 coupe. It is running a 340 HP roller cam 5.0, with  a 373 traction-lok rear. The gear ratios are great for all kinds of driving, and in second and third gear the acceleration is incredible.  The car weighs 3000 pounds

 

[smh00n 87]

@Vicfreg thanks for the detailed comments.

All of that I have covered. I've pulled the column and stripped it and will be replacing the top bearing, as it has a bit of grind to it. The lower nylon bush seems to be tight, but it does no work I can see so I'll reuse it. The seal to the firewall is original and I'll replace that. I'll give the column a strip and paint as it has some corrosion on the ,lower half.

The Borgeson is a concern I'll admit. The Borgeson lower bearing (I tried looking for it but can't find it) is what I had already thought of, as Mustang Steve sells a kit. I will put in a lower bearing which will also seal the column. In Australia, we have this freaking stupid rule that any suspension cannot have welds, or it needs to be xray'd/tested for integrity and then passed with certification form a mechanical engineer. So, I am stuck with the OEM stuff. I have already replaced the front suspension with a setup from a 1985 Falcon, which gives me more camber and caster as well as an in-built Shelby drop. As I am only running 7" rims and 205 tyres (another stoopid rule, you cannot go bigger than 1" from stock on wheels) I should be able to throw plenty of castor in there. I hope.

I have the GM pump kit from Borgeson.

I have just ordered an opentracker roller idler arm, which will either be better or not depending on the forum you visit, but I will also buy a manual idler arm and use the original body bracket if needed. I have the new rag joint/coupler for Borgeson but not impressed. They use smaller, full thread bolts in cadmium coat which are too long so I will re-use the original Ford studs for the coupling.

The hoses I will see. I have the 8.2" block and JBA or Patriot shorty headers. I am putting in a cooler so I can run the return hose along the chassis rail. If I have to go an aeroquip style hose on the pressure so be it. I am a bit fussy on mechanical stuff so I'll decide how to approach it when the lump is back in it. But the box is bigger than the Ford one so it might be tight. I am lucky in that there is a guy who rebuilds them about 20 miles away and he charges $250 all done. If I have too, I can convert back.

The gearbox. Sigh. I bought this 5 years ago when I bought the car. We also started to renovate the house so I was told by my ever-loving wife "No car stuff till the house is done". So I have a brand new gearbox that is probably not going to play well with my 7,000 rpm-capable 347. The change over cost is probably about $2,000 so I need to reconcile that. I've heard stories of it being hard to shift at high rpm to totally blocking out gears. Maybe I will do what I wanted to do in the first place and put a 429 in it. Low revs, big power = happy days. And, in case you are wondering I can legally and without Engineering reports put in a 472-cube motor as they came out factory with a 429. Go figure. No brake changes, no upgrades. But if I want to put later model, alloy calipers on the front which have a better choice of pads, I need, you guessed it, to sheckle up for not only an Engineers report but also have it pass a full brake test with emergency stops, minimum distance and pedal pressures.

Alternatively, we do have a local shop that modifies T5 to take some power and revs. As I am only expecting about 400 from the motor (347, Dart alloy heads, 10.5:1, Sniper) I might be able to squeeze by with one of them. But I bought the 600 to take some abuse and don't want to be under the car each month.

On the good news side, I have the full Modern Driveline kit with the cable clutch so am hoping it is as good as they and folks say. We have another rule here - no cutting of floor pans without Engineers report so I can't hack the thing up. Trimming which will pass the casual look would be OK but no major cut and welds.

I am putting roller bearings into the pedal box whilst it is out. I bought the Hurst shifter handle so hopefully it clears. As this is a poverty pack without a console I am not overly concerned on clearance or centrelines.

I'll start a new thread with progress. The cars nothing special, it is literally driver quality as I bought it 'restored' but it was a low rent job. I'm happy with that as I don't do show queens and prefer to drive them rather than admire the shine (which it doesn't, the painter was too scared to lay paint down so it is dry as).

All of you be grateful you can build, register and drive a Pro Stock car over there. Our rules are so restrictive that any decent upgrades are effectively banned before you start.