Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 21, 2019 I had $18 in the bulb sockets (didn’t price shop), but the wire and heat shrink I had laying around from when I scrapped an EFI harness and other miscellaneous projects. I am reusing the 12 pin connector from my aftermarket gauge install, just had to buy some new pins. I enjoyed doing it for the first 4 hours. That last hour though.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 22, 2019 Didn’t get much done... DID get my rivets today to put the headlight switch back together. Had to buy 100 to get 3, so it anyone needs any... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 23, 2019 Dash is complete. Assembled it today. Tested it out. All good. If the gauges don’t work now, it’s something else. 2 TexasEd and fvike reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 23, 2019 Arning 1" UCA drop. Hole size now 1/2" and still need to drill the 17/32 hole. Seems I read there is a 69Stang community drill bit out there somewhere. Anybody? Those Harbor Freight step drills are a best buy purchase, @ $14. Compare to $45 tool store purchase. The unit pictured below was used entirely in the build of my rotisserie and body cart. Still cuts nicely!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted March 23, 2019 I bought their generator ,thing works great ,especially for the price Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 23, 2019 So good news is, the oil pressure gauge works. I assume the temp gauge will as well, but the sender wasn’t plugged in. Bad news... gauge illumination lights aren’t working. When I turn them on, the left turn indicator turns on. They worked previously. The blue/red wire is shorting to ground somewhere. Since I put the headlight switch in at the same time, I checked it... no short to ground. Fuse appears to be good. Wire that goes into the headlight switch isn’t shorting to ground. Turn signal still works. I think it’s on the bulb side of the fuse box. More fun! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 24, 2019 Remove all dash lamp bulbs but one. Does it illuminate? If so, it's not the short. If it doesn't, remove the bulb and find one that works. Then add one bulb at a time to see which sockets are shorting out. I found that the two wire bulb sockets are poorly manufactured and some of the side tabs extend beyond the socket flange so that they can touch the metal. I've gone through 4-5 vendors before i found a reliable source for these things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 24, 2019 I can check that, but the shorting to ground happened with the gauge cluster uninstalled. I pulled the wiring harness and went through it, focusing on the blue/red wire. I didn’t find an issue. I DID find the fuse is blown... eve though I thought I had checked it. Can’t remember if this was a new fuse or not, but the question I have to answer is why did it blow. Would explain why there was no voltage on that wire. I tested out the gauge cluster lights before installing it. I didn’t have any issues... but it never hurts to check again. Why would the left turn signal indicator have 9V on it when the blinker is off and the dash lights are supposed to be on? I’m tired. More fun tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 24, 2019 22 hours ago, Ridge Runner said: I bought their generator ,thing works great ,especially for the price Yeah, I'm really looking closely at a tig welder from them. They have a new line, affordable, and appears to be of quality. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted March 24, 2019 Got back to working on the front bumper/airdam. Set in place to get an idea how it will fit and match up with the fenders. It's just laying there. Also bolted the bumper brackets in place. Working on fog light brackets and brake ducts. I was happy when Anvil came out with theirs so I wouldn't have to make some only to be disappointed when they decided not to market them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 25, 2019 Good news! Dash lights work again. Even though the wire still shows shorting to ground when the cluster isn’t installed. Dimmer control works... barely. Oh well, wasn’t expecting much. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 25, 2019 CV: If you are measuring resistance of the dash lamp wire to ground WITH the bulb in place, you should see about 1 ohm. The bulb has minimal resistance, so it will appear that your meter reading is giving you a short. The only positive way to test for a short is with all of the bulbs removed. Fear not...I think you might be OK. Well, let me restate that: I think your dash cluster might be OK. You? I have had my doubts since circa 2004... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 25, 2019 Hey now. I was young and stupid back then. I’m not young anymore! I was measuring without the dash installed, but with the heater lamp and shifter lamps installed, and I did get 1.2 ohms. I did have a blown fuse... I hate to think I pulled the whole harness for a blown fuse, but it did let me rewrap the harness and I did find a break in the lighter pigtail, so I fixed that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 25, 2019 Checking for shorts on any lamp line with a bulb in place is not going to get you anywhere, as you can't tell between a true short and the low resistance path to ground via the bulb. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 25, 2019 Good to know. I went ahead and installed the harness because I had inspected every inch of wire and found only that one cut wire. Repaired that. I also checked that blue/red wire against every terminal in the harness and only found continuity with the wire itself. I think I’m good. My under dash wiring had been... manipulated and explored to the point where it was a heck of a mess, so taking it out and rewrapping it was a good idea either way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 28, 2019 @Midlife if I have the side marker bulbs OUT of the car, will that make the turn signal indicator in the dash illuminate? I have the dash hooked up... gauge lights work, gauges work, but when I turn on the gauge lights, my left turn indicator turns on. When I take the gauge panel out completely, I’m seeing 9V at the left indicator wire. I think I need to put the bulbs back in and check it again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 28, 2019 38 minutes ago, Cantedvalve said: @Midlife if I have the side marker bulbs OUT of the car, will that make the turn signal indicator in the dash illuminate? I have the dash hooked up... gauge lights work, gauges work, but when I turn on the gauge lights, my left turn indicator turns on. When I take the gauge panel out completely, I’m seeing 9V at the left indicator wire. I think I need to put the bulbs back in and check it again. No, the side marker bulbs being out should not cause the turn signal indicate lamp to illuminate. 9V at the input to the dash cluster means you have a problem either in your turn signal or your underdash harness. It should either be 12 or 0V, depending upon the turn signal. It could also mean you have crossed filaments at the tail-lights. Do you get that 9V with the headlight switch fully disengaged? If so, your wiring is catiwaumpus. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 28, 2019 @Midlife I haven’t modified the underdash harness aside from affixing a new connector for the hardwired dash. And I dont get that when the headlight switch is fully disengaged. One thing I didn’t mention... if I turn the turn signal on, it blinks just fine, and the light doesn’t stay on... even when doing right turn. Really does sound like the switch. I have the column loose, I’ll get it out tonight and get the switch out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 28, 2019 Okay, I’ve got the switch in hand... now what? How do I get the pins out of the plug so I can take off the protective tubing? EDIT: never mind. I got the pins out. Once I pulled my head outta my ass, it was easy. Okay, no visible damage to the wires. I need to test the switch itself then. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 29, 2019 I have no idea how to test this switch, so I’m looking at the wiring diagram. The green/white wire that powers the side markers is tied into the turn signal switch, and also tied into the turn signal indicator. From what I see here, when the side markers are powered, so is the turn signal indicator light. I see no reason it wouldn’t light up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 29, 2019 New plot twist... I went back over and checked with the turn signal switch out. Still have an illuminated turn indicator. So then I unhooked the square red plug under the dash - feeds the side markers and parking lamp - and the indicator turned off. So it’s not the under dash harness, and it’s not the turn signal switch. It’s something in the wiring to the parking and side lamps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mountaineerfan 44 Report post Posted March 29, 2019 Removed the C4 transmission (it had trouble going into reverse, and would not start in 1st). I had done all of the on-car adjustments I could, and decided to just pull it to see if I needed new bands or anything. So far it looks clean inside, but the fluid smelled burnt and was dark. Bands look good, and I put a B&M kit on the valve body since I had it out. I'm planning on checking the governor, and changing the reverse servo and changing the A servo to an R. I've never done this before, and I wish there was a way to test it on the bench before installing! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted April 4, 2019 Still waiting on the harness tape, it should be here today. Pulled the real valance panel to get the backup lights out. On the 65-68, there were bell spacers on the backup light studs that compensated for the lack of perpendicularity between the stud and valance. What did the 1970 use? I ordered a set of th 65-68 parts because I couldn’t find some for the 1970. They will work, just curious. Also have a valance panel with exhaust cutouts already painted. Not sure if I want to use it or not Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted April 4, 2019 Showed the old girl (display only) at a Mustang Club of America show in Houston last weekend at the Lone Star Flight Museum (museum for flying WW1&2 vintage aircraft). Obtained this unique pic of my mustang with a couple of P51 mustangs. 3 1 Mach1 Driver, RPM, Caseyrhe and 1 other reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted April 4, 2019 Jay, your Coupe looks great with the other Mustangs. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
