Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted February 25, 2019 2 1 TexasEd, SWPruett and Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted February 27, 2019 I finally placed my order for new wheels and tires. I ordered Specialty Magnum 500 from Summit with 235/60 on 15x7 for the front and 245/60 on 15x8 for the rear. I orignally wanted to go 15x8 all around but a combination of hearing there could be fit issues with 15x8 on the front and that it just looks better staggered got me to this point. I'm getting Cooper Cobras from Discount Tire Direct. This will probably blow my car budget for 2019 and since it is ready to drive other than wheels and tires I am pretty excited. 3 RPM, JayEstes and bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted February 28, 2019 I have 15x7 235’s up front and have no issues. I went with old school Cragers tho. Hope it works out for you. The 8’s in back will look great. I also got the Cooper cobras and I’m very happy with them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted February 28, 2019 I had the same combo. 15x7 Cragar with 235/60/15 meats. I miss those rims. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted March 3, 2019 Center caps still on the way 1 Grabber70Mach reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 Did a couple of things I've been dreading and putting off. I had to drill out the screws for the door striker plates. Been soaking those suckers with PB Blaster for a month and still could not get them out. In fact, stripped the screw heads out trying to remove them. Drilled off the heads and removed the remaining studs with an EZ Out. Worse than that was the removal of a bolt in the dash assembly. A few months back when I was removing one of the dash brackets, I rounded the head on one of the bolts. To get the assembly off, I used a high speed grinder and cut the bolt head off, leaving the remaining stud. Apparently, someone back in 69 was having an off day with his impact gun, as this bolt was practically in sideways. I had to cut the whole nut assembly out of the dash and with the nut removed and in my vice, I still could not remove that stud. Tomorrow will weld up the dash with the new nut. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 Easiest way to remove the striker screws, is just heat them up on the backside and will practically fall out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 Washed it for the first time in 7 years. :) 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 nothing here... just waiting for the rain to stop.. I miss throwing gears..... :( 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 10 hours ago, mustangstofear said: Easiest way to remove the striker screws, is just heat them up on the backside and will practically fall out. Yeah, I entertained that idea but was concerned about all the penetrating oil and stuff I had previously applied. Did not want to risk a fire. Thanks, Rich Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 35 minutes ago, Machspeed said: Yeah, I entertained that idea but was concerned about all the penetrating oil and stuff I had previously applied. Did not want to risk a fire. Thanks, Rich I have an impact driver like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2910-2-Inch-Manual-7-Piece/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XTJ6XKY7Q966KNGD8Z32 Mine is an older different brand. Works great on stuck screws if you know how to use it properly; you have to adjust it right for it to work and you need the right bit that fits perfect to the head of the screw. I recommend a tool like that to anybody that is taking apart a 50 years old car. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 The impact tool won't even compare to a torch for a really stubborn bolt. You can even just use a propane torch. We also have an Inductor that will remove bolts even around a gas tank. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 2 hours ago, mustangstofear said: The impact tool won't even compare to a torch for a really stubborn bolt. You can even just use a propane torch. We also have an Inductor that will remove bolts even around a gas tank. Yep, I had an impact driver on them and kept them soaked in penetration oil and it wouldn't touch them. Best way would be with heat, but again, concerned about a fire. EZ out worked out fine though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted March 10, 2019 I've hit them so hard with the impact that I drove jam in, still wouldn't come loose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted March 11, 2019 6 hours ago, aslanefe said: I use the impact driver I linked for screws for the door striker plate etc, not for a bolt. One or two hits with a hammer on it with right bit and right setting brakes rusted screws loose. Works on Phillips head screws that are rounded also. Terry, thanks for the input buddy. Here's the impact driver I used. It's a heavy duty sucker with the correct bit and it removed two of the striker plate screws! On those two, I got lucky. It would not budge the other two. In fact, I was afraid I wasn't going to get them with the removal of the screw head and the EZ Out. Thought I was going to have to tap drill the suckers and re-tap. There is a process of galvanic corrosion going on in there between the metal of the screw and the threaded plate. I could see it with the removal of the screws. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted March 11, 2019 17 hours ago, mustangstofear said: I've hit them so hard with the impact that I drove jam in, still wouldn't come loose. You know that they need to be set for right hand or left hand thread before use, right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted March 11, 2019 Why I never thought about that LOL. I'm not even offended :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted March 16, 2019 Alignment and new points, condenser and ignition wires! Drives great now. The drive up was a little scary. I had done a shade tree alignment but didn't really torque down the Lower control arms well enough and the passenger side cam slipped when I hit a pothole. I thought I was going to go in the ditch. Drive home was so much fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasEd 188 Report post Posted March 17, 2019 Went to my first car show today. Had to get a jump to leave and confirmed that my alternator is dead. Now to decide to rebuild or replace. I don't think it is the original case. It says Motorcraft on it. Where is the best place to get one? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Caseyrhe 650 Report post Posted March 18, 2019 Installed the console gauges, cleaned her, took her for a cruise 1 TexasEd reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 20, 2019 Working on the gauge cluster, trying to get everything working. Gauges don’t work, and for some reason my left blinker indicator was stuck on. I also have blinker indicators turning on with the dash lights... so, I am ditching the circuit card PCB that has really deteriorated. Also unhooking the ammeter. Would really like that to be a volt meter... Anyway, I checked the gauges and they are good. I tested the new solid state regulator, and it is rock solid at 5V. Also started wiring the gauges, and I’m waiting on the bulb sockets (should be here today) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cantedvalve 128 Report post Posted March 21, 2019 Aaaand... it’s wired. Good news! Dash lights aren’t shorting to ground! Branching the grounds and dash light power took forever... I started on it at around 5pm and finished around 10pm. Breaks in there, but not many. @Midlife buddy... you aren’t charging enough! 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted March 21, 2019 looks nice Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted March 21, 2019 Tell me about it. It takes me 2.5-3 hours to build one from scratch; parts cost about $20, and I eat the shipping. All for $100. I gotta ask the Boss for a raise, but he don't listen. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites