Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 24, 2014 I finished drilling the spot weld holes in the r/s floor support & clamping the r/s front frame rail patch in place to weld in tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 25, 2014 Welded in the r/s front frame rail patch & test fitted the r/s front floor support. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris'69Mach 23 Report post Posted November 25, 2014 Pulled my hair out .... after replacing the 20" radiator with an aluminum 3 row 24" radiator with dual electric 12" fans, new heater core and new hoses, started engine. Started the process of burping the radiator, the fans did not turn on to cool it down. It got to 205* and shut it off. Coolant came out of radiator like a volcano everywhere. Was best to shut it off immediately than to button up the radiator first. Better to have coolant everywhere than a cracked block imho. Tested the fan's painless wiring harness. All wiring was working fine including the relay. Hooked the fans directly to the battery and not a GD thing. BRAND NEW Fans !!!! Chewed on CJPP's rep. Champion is sending me 2 replacement fans directly. I would have to say, engine compartment is looking mighty fine though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted November 25, 2014 LMAO....so did the mustang enjoy you pulling your hair out since you over heated it HEHE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Restomod 10 Report post Posted November 25, 2014 Nighty night for the winter, have to protect from NY salt coming in the garage from our daily drivers... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris'69Mach 23 Report post Posted November 26, 2014 Nighty night for the winter, have to protect from NY salt coming in the garage from our daily drivers... Now THAT is just AWESOME !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted November 26, 2014 Found out my new brake lines leak at the fittings Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 26, 2014 Found out my new brake lines leak at the fittings Not the hard way I hope! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikebliss 10 Report post Posted November 28, 2014 Angel is correct. They are called load leveling shocks are allow a higher load capacity especially if towing. They also generally result in raising the rear of the vehicle. I have seen them used in place of air shocks yo increase clearance for rear tires. They also ride more harshly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted November 30, 2014 Redid the brake lines for the 3rd time. Took the new stainless lines out (they are a bitch to get to seat correct) and replaced them with OE coated mild steel lines. I dropped my newly re-rebuilt 331 in and will be putting the accessories on it today and starting on the American Autowire harness swap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarkBuddha 107 Report post Posted November 30, 2014 I had some coin burning a whole in my pocket so I went on a spending spree... spent more than I intended, but a lot less than I could've. Got Summit to price match on a Borgeson conversion and Global West strut rods, and I bought a set of drum brake spindles from a member here for a big brake conversion. Relatively small but darned expensive pieces to a big puzzle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted November 30, 2014 Welded in the r/s front floor support, test fitted the r/s torque box, and test fitted the r/s toe board. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangmike6996 34 Report post Posted December 1, 2014 finished installing all of the accessories for the engine, started pulling the dash for the new harness and a repaint of the interior parts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
b1002 10 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Out with the old and in with the new Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Welded in the inner & outer sections of the r/s front torque box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fvike 173 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Out with the old and in with the new Please keep us updated on how that goes. I have the same kit waiting to go into my car later during the resto process. If there are any problems, I'd rather have you work them out before I attempt my install! LOL! ;D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coz 108 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Please keep us updated on how that goes. I have the same kit waiting to go into my car later during the resto process. If there are any problems, I'd rather have you work them out before I attempt my install! LOL! ;D +1 on this.... I'm rewiring this year and am on the fence on which kit to run. I need enough circuits for power windows/doors and a couple other items. I was thinking the Painless 22circuit but would like to hear how this install goes. Ballsy to pull the old wire - - I plan to run the new next to the old wherever possible before pulling out the old. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 Today, I replaced my stock tie-rod sleeves by new Proforged ones. Very, very nice upgrade! G Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 The AAW Kit has provisions for Power Windows and power seats Etc.... Plenty of room to grow. Just take pictures of where your old harness stuff was so you can put the new back in the same place. And if you dont have the fenders on install them b4 cutting any of the front wires so you can see exactly how long you need them. If installing battery in the trunk your going to need to run a cable All the way from front to back 2 times plus a trigger wire from the AAW kit if your using a newer starter since you should put the Solenoid in the trunk as well by the battery...that is if your looking for a clean install. Go ahead an weld a Stud to the rear frame rail under the battery for a good ground as well as welding a stud to the front frame area "I suggest the pass side" for another good ground for your electric fan controls and other associated grounds. That way you can put the engine to body ground along with the engine to Frame rail ground and all the other crap all in 1 spot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Started welding in the r/s toe board. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Nighty night for the winter, have to protect from NY salt coming in the garage from our daily drivers... Cant wait until spring to see that hatch . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted March 2, 2015 I took out the dolly that was under my Calypso Coral CJ ,bolted in rear leafs and a 9 inch housing and axles ,bolted on a front end dolly .Now i can roll it out to the sand blaster to blast and prime the interior before welding in the new floor . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
b1002 10 Report post Posted March 5, 2015 +1 on this.... I'm rewiring this year and am on the fence on which kit to run. I need enough circuits for power windows/doors and a couple other items. I was thinking the Painless 22circuit but would like to hear how this install goes. Ballsy to pull the old wire - - I plan to run the new next to the old wherever possible before pulling out the old. I'll keep all up to date, it will be slow because I'm out of town working for the next couple of months. Like MikeStang mentioned AAW Kit has provisions for Power windows, electric fan, fog lights, etc..... I'm keeping it pretty basic, no heater/ac, one wire alternator, installed the new ididit steering column, Pertronix, new gauges, & maybe add electric fan in the future. My old wiring harness was not safe to use, this was a must. Instructions have been A LOT of help. I contacted AAW Tech via email with a question about the installation. They were very helpful and if I read a little more into the instructions I would have found the answer there. You do need to purchase crimping tools, unless you already own them, for terminals Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DarkBuddha 107 Report post Posted March 5, 2015 I've been mucking about with brackets and pulleys for the alternator, Saginaw ps pump, and Sanden a/c compressor for the 408w. Ordered some cheapo Chinese brackets off eBay, and had to make a simple plate bracket and cut some spacers, but it finally got it all lined up. Now I'm thinking I'll buy a sandblast cabinet and a DIY powder coating kit and make it all look nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bryonbush 85 Report post Posted March 6, 2015 Put the motor and transmission in last night 1 Protowrxs reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
