69 Mustang Coupe Lexan Windows... and lightweight mods

[69_Mustang 26]

Yes, that's what meant! Sorry. Ha!

[69gmachine 15]

If it also had AC then there was an evaporator core in addition to the heater core, so that sounds like a reasonable amount of weight to knock out.

 

Are you planning to drive around town with everything removed, or will this be a track only car? Have you considered taking the door glass and mechanisms out and not replacing them? That would lighten the doors quite a bit.

 

When I get home I'll weigh both an aluminum WP and an iron one for comparison, although the Flow Kooler pump I have installed is even lighter than the aluminum Edelbrock pump that I can get a weight from.

[69_Mustang 26]

If it also had AC then there was an evaporator core in addition to the heater core, so that sounds like a reasonable amount of weight to knock out.

 

Are you planning to drive around town with everything removed, or will this be a track only car? Have you considered taking the door glass and mechanisms out and not replacing them? That would lighten the doors quite a bit.

 

When I get home I'll weigh both an aluminum WP and an iron one for comparison, although the Flow Kooler pump I have installed is even lighter than the aluminum Edelbrock pump that I can get a weight from.

 

It will still be street driven. Idea is to be a "daily driven" car, but with a high capacity for performance around turns, as well as be as light as possible without tearing everything apart. I'd like to get a lighter dash, clean up the wire harness, keep the carpet, lighten the doors like you're saying and all the other good stuff.

 

I'd like to get lighter doors, just not sure how I would run fiberglass doors, with lexan windows of course, but that can also be "rolled" up and down. Or some sort of system where I can latch it closed (as simple as possible) and unlatch to open it.

 

So yeah... long story short. As light as possible while still being streetable.. And keeping my 3 speakers and cd player. :)

[69gmachine 15]

The iron WP weighed in at 10.6 lbs. The edelbrock alum weighed 7.0 lbs. My guesstimate is that the Flow Kooler alum weighs 6 +/- .2 lbs.

 

A pair of alum heads typically weigh 50 lbs less than their iron counterparts.

 

A couple of years ago I made a spread sheet of all the weight I had removed, but now I can't find it anywhere.

Edited December 12, 2012 by 69gmachine
spelling

[EastYorkStang 63]

Found it, I'll be reading this in detail tonight when I get home.

 

Thanks

[69_Mustang 26]

Where did you find it?

[jeepcj7304 10]

I am glad to see the fiberglass bumpers worked out well for you.

[69_Mustang 26]

Thanks! :)

[latoracing 256]

(quote)

I'd like to get lighter doors, just not sure how I would run fiberglass doors, with lexan windows of course, but that can also be "rolled" up and down. Or some sort of system where I can latch it closed (as simple as possible) and unlatch to open it.

 

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was a race car, with lexan windows that used a nylon strap to open / close the window. I suppose the tracks were stock, or made, and the strap attached at the bottom of the window. The strap was long enough to allow the window to rest on the stops when down, and when pulled to shut the window, it snapped to the door pannel, close to the arm rest, to keep it there. Kinda retro, simple and effective.

[69_Mustang 26]

That's the idea I was thinking too. Maybe some sort of aluminum internal frame for the lexan window and some form of latch system, like you're saying.

 

keep it light and simple, but functional!

 

I'd love to get fg doors; it would drop a ton of weight!

[EastYorkStang 63]

That strap for the windows was used on the '68 Hemi Darts. Simple to operate they had a button on the top of the door to keep the window up.

[69_Mustang 26]

This might be extreme for some people, but I have a relatively inexpensive way to drop like 170 lbs.

 

Race weight hood (13 lbs) and a race weight trunk (5 lbs). Couple places offer it; downside is that they need to be a full pin on. Which, for me, wouldn't be a big deal. I believe the stock hood is around 65 lbs and the trunk around 35 lbs. Now, with them being full pin on, you loose all the latching mechs for the hood (guessing around 20 lbs) and for the trunk (guessing 10 lbs). So race weight minus hood, trunk and latches/hinges would drop close to 110 lbs!

 

Then put in rear quarter lexan windows. Remove all the mechs and stock glass, I'm guessing that would be close to the 60 lbs range dropped, since it's all heavy steel and glass.

 

between those 3 things it seems to me that 170 lbs isn't too expensive.

[David120 10]

Unless you have to get rid of the surprise systems, why do you strategy to go with a coilover installation that contributes a metal support under your car when you are trying to preserve weight? Just seems odd to me. I cannot believe that an MII revocation is less heavy than a frequent coilover kit, like the TCP or International Western packages. At $2485 and $2584 respectively, they're less expensive too. But you don't get a holder & pinion with those packages. But you could buy one later on, and propagate the expenses. . . . . .

[69_Mustang 26]

You must be referring to an old post, as the mustang ii system was out of the question rather quickly.

 

I am getting a front coilover system; from RAE Racing.

Edited January 10, 2013 by 69_Mustang

[69_Mustang 26]

Dropped about 2 lbs off the front end. Did the hood pin install and the latch parts were actually heavier than i thought. Not a ton.. but something! ;)

 

 

Third pic is in my sig.

[EastYorkStang 63]

Any other way of utilizing the hood pins? Never liked the cables.

[69_Mustang 26]

I could also take the cables off; just wanted to see what it looked like with them on.

[69gmachine 15]

Adam,

 

this company can make molded Lexan for our cars: http://proglasswindows.com/FormedWindows.html

 

For a street going car the front windshield is 1/4", all other glass is 3/16. For clear he quoted me a price of $1275 and for tinted it was $1400.

 

He needs a '70 door glass (either side) as a sample to make the mold for both sides and it will be able to roll up and down.

[69_Mustang 26]

Awesome! Thanks Larry.

 

I have a coupe, so I'm sure either way I'd need to send something in, right?

 

I work from home, so being away from car isn't a big deal. That's what I have a road bike for, haha.

 

I still need to do the rear quarter windows, that alone can be done for cheap and drops around 60 lbs (so I'm told). I think I'd like to get my suspension sorted out first. then trans (T-56), then lightweight, then power... Does that order makes sense?

[69gmachine 15]

Yep, it sounds like you have a good plan. He makes his own molds so if he doesn't already have a pattern for a coupe he can make it off the originals.

[69_Mustang 26]

Ah, nice. Well, hopefully I get my car back soon, it's getting some work done (brake booster delete, 7/8" brake master cylinder, manual brake pedal).

 

Maybe I'll just cover the car up and do the windows now, or soon... just to get it out of the way. I'd think if I went full out windows and fiberglass doors, that should easily drop at least 200 lbs. I'd imagine the complete door assembly is probably really heavy.

 

I was also trying think of a way to run the fiberglass doors with some sort of contraption that can let the windows go up and down. Even if it just locks shut or locks open, just a way to open the windows, so they're still functional with fiberglass doors. Any ideas?

 

It's my "DD" but I ride my road bike if I need to get anywhere local, now; I work from home and getting my PT certs.

[69_Mustang 26]

Would this pan be too "deep" for daily driving? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26403

 

I can't really tell how deep would be. I would like it for better cooling, but if it's too much in the way when going lower with the car, then I'd rather stick to the 1qt extra pans, that isn't so deep, and just run a trans cooler.

 

Any experience? Thoughts?

[rwcstang 201]

Would this pan be too "deep" for daily driving? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26403

 

I can't really tell how deep would be. I would like it for better cooling, but if it's too much in the way when going lower with the car, then I'd rather stick to the 1qt extra pans, that isn't so deep, and just run a trans cooler.

 

Any experience? Thoughts?

 

I have their Transmission, my car is lowered and it doesn't hit anything except speed bumps.

[69_Mustang 26]

Ah, perfect then. Thanks, rwcstang!

 

I'm looking to basically get a few things for my trans from Performance Automatic, like the: Race Overhaul Rebuild Kit, Deep Aluminum Transmission Pan and Valve Body Kits.

 

I was also looking at this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26418p

This: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26405

and this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa26411

 

But I kind of want to avoid pulling the trans all the way out... lol. Is there anything else you, or anyone else, would recommend that is "easy" or doesn't need to the trans to be pulled?

[69_Mustang 26]

Not today, but this past weekend I ordered a few parts so I can finally finish my suspension.

 

Currently have RAE front coilover kir (with 450# springs I believe, it's been so long), Cobra auto outside shock tower thingies, Cobra auto 1 1/4 front sway bar and cobra auto front subframe connector.

 

Recently ordered:

- Scott Drake 5 leaf, Reverse Eye (supposedly drops the car 2", reviews said it was more like 1/2")

- Scott Drake Shelby style traction bars

- New shackles, bushings, etc

- Scott Drake Performance rear shocks

- Scott Drake 1" lowering block

- Addco 7/8" rear sway bar

- Sound and heat insulation

 

I'm hoping I'll be able to get all this done by the end of the week, or early next week. I think the suspension should be about as tight as it will get without subframe connectors.

 

Besides that, I'm just going to tighten up the suspension here and there to eliminate weak points. I also want to continue from where I left off and do the rear quarter window delete (thinking it will be close to a 50-60 lb drop), that should leave me right around 3000 lbs, I believe.

 

I'm still debating if I want to try and run 245/60-15 (might even try to risk 255/60-15) up front and 295/50-15 out back, or wait it out and run 18" wheels with some wide, sticky rubber (285 up front, 305 out back) in few months.